Mafia Island is located in the Indian Ocean, off the East African coast of Tanzania. I learned about Mafia Island from reports of several scubadivers in internet platforms, who consider it an “insider tip”. In November/December 2024 three divers (Lisi, Franz and me) set out towards Mafia in order to experience firsthand the diving and possibilities for UW-photographers.

Mafia Island is not difficult to reach via international flights from Vienna/Austria to Dar es Salaam/Tanzania. From there, the travel continues with a short 30’ flight via domestic airline. The airport in Kilindoni, the largest village of the island, is small and, accordingly, the airplanes are small too (the photo shows the main building of the airport and, to the left, the nose of the aircraft that brought us there). By default, only 15kg of luggage, including the cabine luggage, are allowed in the small aircraft. It is very positive to note, that one can book extra luggage in advance by EMail with the domestic “Coastal Airline” (https://coastal.co.tz/), in order to avoid unpleasant surprises when arriving with masses of unannounced luggage. This way, our extensive diving and photo equipment was “nullo problemo” (in order to avoid overload of the aircraft, we had to book an extra seat in advance, that remained empty).

There are several resorts located on Mafia Island, but only a single one, “Big Blue Mafia Island Diving Centre” (https://bigblumafia.com/) is perfectly positioned within the Mafia Island Marine Park, where most of the diving spots are located (the marinepark fee, that has to be paid for every single day of the stay once upon entrance, is worth every single cent). This resort is owned and managed by Maura, an Italian, who is the friendly contact person for booking and payment. She is married to a local diving instructor, native to the island, who runs the diving base (their son is working as diving guide, one can say it is a true family enterprise; also the other instructors, guides and employees contributed to a very pleasant stay including safe and wonderful diving).

Accommodation is simple, but corresponds to western standards, comprising tasty half (or, when required, full) board and aircondition. Cleaning and freeing the huts from mosquitoes with pesticides is done twice per day. At this point it is appropriate to mention that effective repellants and malaria prophylaxis are strongly recommended by our Austrian tropical medicine specialists.

Diving is done using Dhow style boats, that provide plenty of space for the few divers. They are made from heavy tropical woods and are powered by an outboard engine. When winds allow, the boats are also able to sail along silently and swiftly. Chole Bay is the heart of the natural reserve and accordingly most diving spots are located within the bay. Depending on weather, diving spots outside the bay can be dived also. Since the tidal range within Chole Bay is substantial, departure times for the two-tank boat dives are dominated by the tide, are highly variable from day to day and were between 05:00 AM and 14:30 PM during the two weeks of our stay. Despite careful consideration of tidal times, substantial currents are possible. At low tide the visibility within the bay can be pretty modest (as low as 4-5m), but at high tide and also outside the bay it can be remarkably good (up to 30m). Taken together, the diving conditions are certainly not easy for UW-photographers. This is more than compensated by outstanding biodiversity and abundance of species that guarantee the presence of great motifs in high number, rewarding those that take up the challenge.

School of common blue-striped snappers (Lutjanus kasmira), outside Chole Bay. Sony A7R5, WACP-C, Sony 28-60mm @28mm, 1/160s, f/10, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Also inside Chole Bay, the quality of hard coral is good. Sony A7R5, Canon 8-15mm @15mm, 1/100s, f/10, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Attracted by me, since I was using the macro setup (when I was equipped with the fisheye lens, mating Nembrothas were almost guaranteed), a giant Potato Grouper (Epinephelus tukula) shows up inside the bay. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, 1/200s, f/9, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

The diving comprises plenty of motifs for wideangle photography, but Chole Bay can be regarded as a true macro destination for UW-photographers as well:

Numerous nudibranch species can be encountered around Chole Bay. Noteworthy to state, our stay coincided with the mating season of the Golden Nembrotha (Nembrotha aurea). These seaslugs are hermaphrodites and mating takes place by connecting the sexual organs, located on the right side of the body, with each other in order to transfer the sperm. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, SMC-1, 1/250s, f/14, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Blue Pseudoceros flatworm (Pseudoceros bifurcus) moves leisurely over hard coral. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, SMC-1, 1/200s, f/14, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Shrimp city is a coral block located inside Chole Bay that is not only populated by countless camel shrimps (Rhynchocinetes durbanensis), but also glassfish, damselfish, anthias, muray eels and groupers. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, 1/250s, f/13, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus) sitting on black coral. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, 1/200s, f/13, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Reef octopus (Octopus cyaneus) peeks out curiously from its shelter. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, 1/200s, f/18, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

A report about diving at Mafia Island cannot be complete without whale sharks (Rhincodon typus). Outside the marinepark, between the African eastcoast, where the impressive Rufiji river ends up in the Indian Ocean, and the west coast of Mafia Island, the Mafia channel is formed. The high input of biomass from the Rufiji river delta causes plankton to bloom within this strait. This results not only in poor visibility (6-10m; and hence (again) challenging conditions for UW-photography), but, at certain times of the year, whale sharks gather for feeding. Snorkeling excursions by boat are offered and we were able to spot up to 15 different whale sharks on a single day (including a touching encounter with a female shark, closely accompanied by her half-grown up offspring).

Whaleshark feeding on krill. Sony A7R5, WACP-C, Sony 28-60mm @31mm, 1/200s, f/7.1, ISO 200:

Whaleshark fading away into the blue. Sony A7R5, Canon 8-15mm @15mm, 1/250s, f/6.3, ISO 250:

It was an unforgettable diving trip and fond memories will endure. We already have booked flights and resort for another two weeks in November 2025, in order to visit again this little paradise… 😊

Waterpixels is always happy to help promote the activities of our own members.

Husband and wife team, John Warmington (johnvila) and Sandra Kaye, have set up Critter Spotters in Vanuatu which they describe as a "Photographer-Friendly Retreat".

Here's what they have to say:

"We’re John Warmington and Sandra Kaye, a husband-and-wife team with over 40 years of dive experience between us, and a combined 26 years of living here in Vanuatu. Together, we’ve built Critter Spotter, a dive offering created for underwater photographers and thoughtful divers — and Karma Waters, a private villa just steps from the reef we call home.

This isn’t a large scale commercial operation or a packaged tour. It’s a personal invitation to dive the way we dive — slowly, with care, with curiosity, and with space to stay as long as the subject needs.

𝐖𝐡𝐲 𝐕𝐚𝐧𝐮𝐚𝐭𝐮 ----  𝐀𝐧𝐝 𝐖𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐀𝐫𝐞 𝐖𝐞?

Vanuatu is an island nation in the South Pacific, east of Australia and north of New Zealand — a chain of volcanic islands with rich marine life, warm waters, and minimal dive traffic.

If you can get to Australia, New Zealand, or Fiji, you’re just one short flight away. Direct connections from Brisbane, Sydney, Auckland, and Nadi make it surprisingly easy — especially compared to many Indo-Pacific destinations.

We’re based on Efate, just 45 minutes from the international airport, in the calm, sheltered waters of Havannah Harbour — a site known for its gentle conditions and exceptional macro biodiversity.

𝐊𝐚𝐫𝐦𝐚 𝐖𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐬 𝐕𝐢𝐥𝐥𝐚 – 𝐘𝐨𝐮𝐫 𝐁𝐚𝐬𝐞

Karma Waters is a newly constructed private, one-bedroom, self-contained villa set among tropical gardens with ocean views and direct access to the reef. It’s ideal for dive couples or photography buddies who want flexibility and privacy without compromise. The king bed can be split to two singles for travelling buddies and in addition to your own comfy timber deck with water views you will have access to a large covered deck right on the waters edge, a luxurious day bed and lounges overlook the water. Grab a kayak and go exploring for yourself.

We also offer on-site massage, yoga, or pilates sessions and can host your own private lifestyle workshop.

You’re welcome to self-cater at your own pace, or just relax and let the water set the rhythm. There are dining spots close or private catering ca be arranged. 

➡️ If your group is more than two, we can comfortably cater for up to four divers. While the villa remains best suited for couples or pairs, we’re happy to help arrange nearby accommodation for extra guests without compromising the experience.

𝐓𝐡𝐞 𝐃𝐢𝐯𝐢𝐧𝐠 – 𝐌𝐚𝐜𝐫𝐨-𝐑𝐢𝐜𝐡, 𝐂𝐫𝐨𝐰𝐝-𝐅𝐫𝐞𝐞

Our reef is one of those places that rewards repeat dives and patient eyes. Whether you're looking for frogfish, mantis shrimp, nudibranchs, moray eels  — or simply just love long cruisy dives you'll have the space and time you need to make it memorable. 

We offer dives right from the villa, just go down the steps! It’s your choice --- we will introduce you to the area on arrival with a few guided dives and then it’s up to you – guided or unguided. Lets us know how many tanks you need! Our 5 metre diver friendly boat is surveyed and ready for adventure on request. 

We limit our numbers for a reason — so that you never feel rushed or overlooked.  We don’t do schedules - dive when you're ready, linger as long as you want, your experience is the priority. 

We don’t teach – we dive and cater to certified divers only. Maximum of 4 divers.

We all know the worry about weight limits and travel – we can ease that burden – all dive gear is available for hire plus we can cater to photographers with: GoPro, TG7 or Nikon D500 / Nauticam set ups on site, ready to hire. 

𝐑𝐮𝐧 𝐛𝐲 𝐩𝐚𝐬𝐬𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐚𝐭𝐞 𝐩𝐡𝐨𝐭𝐨𝐠𝐫𝐚𝐩𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐬

John has spent the last decade developing his underwater photography through patience, passion, and deep familiarity with local marine life. He’s happy to share insights, offer camera advice, or help you troubleshoot a setup — casually, in-water, or over a post-dive photo chat. If you want more --- Workshops are available on request, whether you're just starting out or want a focused photo session.

Sandy, a qualified divemaster and accomplished videographer, is especially intuitive with guests newer to diving, and is always ready to help spot subjects, keep an eye on conditions, or simply ensure your dive feels safe and supported.

𝐌𝐨𝐫𝐞 𝐓𝐡𝐚𝐧 𝐉𝐮𝐬𝐭 𝐃𝐢𝐯𝐢𝐧𝐠

We’ve called Vanuatu home for years — and it shows in how we host. From cultural tips to hidden snorkelling spots, we make it our mission to ensure every guest walks away with more than just good photos — but a truly memorable experience. 

We share what we love in a way that’s real, relaxed, , no crowds, no rush and  tailored to you!

Ready to Learn More?

📍 www.critterspotter.com
📩 Email: john@critterspotter.com
📷 Follow us: @critterspotter

If you're looking for a quieter, slower kind of dive trip — with time to shoot, space to think, genuine rest and relaxation, and a reef that still surprises us after hundreds of dives — we’d love to welcome you to Havannah Harbour.

See you underwater,

John & Sandy
Critter Spotter | Karma Waters | Vanuatu"

During our first stay in the Philippines, just after COVID, we skipped Moalboal. At the time, it was still "complicated" to change islands.

For this trip I studied an Anilao – Romblon combo but it seemed relatively complicated to me... I gave up. Good for us with the typhoons, we would have been stuck for a few days.

Anyway, we went back to Cebu again, with Moalboal and its sardines as our first stop.

For the rest of the season we chose safety by returning to the Thalatta Resort south of Dauin in Negros Oriental. It was also an opportunity to re-test this hotel, following the change of ownership.

For the third place, another safe bet, the Island View Beachfront Resort and its Anda Scuba Diving club.  Resort at the top of our possibilities with the "real" rates and not the promotional ones we had in 2022.  FYI, if you are a "returning guest" there is a small discount... but also by making a "long stay" from 7 or 8 nights. This helped us a lot, without these discounts, we would not have gone back for so long. So if you go, stay at least a week.

I tried to minimize the trips but we will have done close to 600 km by car and boat.

The route, once again it will be with Singapore Air that we will fly, still departing from Zurich. ZRH -> SIN 12 hours (return more than 13 hours) and a little less than 4 hours from SIN to CEBU.

I always enjoy this long night on the plane where you can land, especially since on the way there and back you arrive in the early morning.

Some go through Turkey when I look at the schedules, no thanks, especially if it's to earn only a few euros on the flight and then it's a hassle when arriving in Cebu at 2 a.m.

For us, it was an arrival in Cebu around 3 p.m., everything went quickly and without the slightest problem. Provided that you have thought carefully before leaving to fill in the online form on the Philippine website in order to obtain a QR code that will be requested on arrival. This form, on the other hand... uh... A real hassle to fill, I had to start over a good dozen times... bugs galore. So avoid doing this at the last minute, you risk having surprises.

It's a long journey, especially if you still count the journey to Zurich the day before the flight. 44 hours door-to-door on the outward journey and 56 hours from the departure of Anda for the return.

 

 Here we are at the exit of the airport and our driver is waiting to take us to Moalboal at the Cebu Seaview Resort. This will be the most difficult part of the journey. Almost 3 hours of winding roads with part of the night. But we arrive without any problem at the first stage of our journey where we will dive for 4 days.
 

A quick dinner, before assembling the photo and video equipment... tomorrow the dive starts at 8 o'clock. With the 7-hour difference in winter between France and the Philippines, we will have to set the alarm clock... But it will not be useful, only too happy to be back in the warm waters of the Golden Triangle.

In the morning, a little check of the papers (certifications and insurance) and of course the small form with liability waiver, in short, classic.
 

Everything is very well organized, the tank are rigged on land by the divers but transported on the bankas by the many crew members and guides/instructors.

Once everything is installed on the banka, the signal is given to join the boat. A small staircase to go down and then, depending on the tide, a small walk in the water to reach the access staircase to the banka.

I strongly advise to wear booties, if possible with good thick soles, your feet will thank you. Here as in the other places where we dived, pebbles, corals and especially sea urchins can be formidable when accessing the boat.

The first dive will be in Pescador, a small island in front of Moalboal, renowned for being surrounded by a teeming life. A few years ago there was a large sardine bar that had taken up residence there... We won't see the slightest of them, just a lot of fish. Nice dive to start our stay.

After the dive, it's back to the center, everyone disembarks, there's something to make coffee or tea... but nothing to nibble on while waiting for the 2nd departure.  

Cebu Seaview being located more or less in the middle of the Moalboal coast we will do the dives less than 15 minutes away from sailing and just a little more for Pescador which we will do 3 times in 4 days. The conditions were not great so we only did the west side but nature is well done, it was different each time.

In the afternoon there is a 3rd dive and it is possible to do night dives. We will not do it.

 On the second day we change guides that we will keep for the remaining 3 days. Not bad... I would say better than the first one who was an employee of the center while Cino was a freelancer. A guide with a bottle... A pleasure to dive with him. We will always leave first and will often, if not always, avoid "traffic jams" and "jacuzzis".

It is therefore with him that we will make "the Sardines". 

Sardines... They migrated for an unknown reason a few dozen meters from the coast. This is where they are visible to divers but also to snorkelers. The number of boats on the surface made me fear the "worst", I could already see myself having to elbow my way underwater, a bit like Hanifaru Bay in the Maldives.

Cino jumped us into the water first and "traced" directly to the north... small shock... "But where is he going?" and then magic sardines... sardines everywhere... thousands, sorry millions, impressive.

We were the only ones for the first few minutes. Then a few divers joined us but at no time was there a crowd, really great. An experiment to be done at least once... We did it again 2 days later without any regrets.

It's not easy to convey the atmosphere in photos, I did the best I could. It's up to you to judge.

The dive center is not the "family" type, it's closer to the factory... but very well organized, where it is good to dive. We did 11 dives in 4 days and were happy to go to see something else.

The hotel is comfortable, nothing to say, nickel, quiet and the a la carte restaurant is very good. It's not on the level of the next ones but excellent for the price.

Very good mention for the bar. The cocktails are very well dosed... (I suspect the bartender reversed the dose of rum with that of orange juice...  ) It was really not worth having 2 drinks to sleep well.

As is often the case with great encounters during these few days, there are no regrets about having passed through Moalboal... Sardines undoubtedly deserve the destination to be bet on a "ToDo", even if bubble factories are numerous here.

After 5 nights it is the departure for the Negros Oriental.

The transfer is arranged at my request by the Thalatta Dive Resort.  A taxi picks us up at 8 am and after about 2 hours 30 minutes we arrive at a small port where small fast shuttles go back and forth between the islands of Cebu and Negros.

The crossing is done in less than 30 minutes.

Remember to have Pesos (PHP) in order to pay porters and luggage tax on arrival. The whole thing cost us a few hundred PHP (1 € = +/- 60 PHP).

Upon arrival, a driver is waiting for us to take us in less than an hour to the Thalatta. We will arrive in the early afternoon and will be able to sit quietly and enjoy the pool before the return of the divers who spent the day with 3 dives at Apo Island.

When we arrived, we met "our" guide Nadi with whom we had dived 2 years ago. He no longer dives. Alex, the new owner of Thalatta Resort, asked Nadi to take over the reins of the diving club. He now manages the entire small team and the maintenance of the diving center.

We will dive with Oien during the 7 days. He is now the most experienced guide. He was trained by Nadi. We had already dived with him during Nadi's "day off" in August 2022.

He is very good and has gone out of his way to show us as much as possible....

Ouch that's where it starts to get stuck.

The season is really not ideal, not too much life, few nudibranchs, shrimps and others. It's nature and you have to accept it. We are "just" a few weeks, even days before the gradual return of the little beasts.

Nature... hmmm that includes the weather. Not really at the top of the wind coming from the north-east and some clouds. But overall it was very nice. A little frustrated at having been able to fly very little with the drone.

Big frustration on the day of departure with flat seas.... 

And to think that 2 days before, on the way back from the last dive, my wife, while jumping from the Banka "at the wrong" time, sprained her ankle... It is therefore with a crutch that she will leave the Thalatta.

Thanks to the carpenter, who quickly made him something to move around without putting too much strain on his foot.

Thanks also to the masseuse who worked a miracle. Our physiotherapists should learn from this... More than an hour of massage to relieve pain and try to unravel problems and restore mobility.

Back to diving.

After the first day where we did a double dive trip to the south (Basak) and then in the afternoon a House Reef for the two of us, we left for Apo and three dives on the second.

The crossing is slightly hectic but it goes well with the very comfortable banka.

First dive on the bow of Apo.. hmmm but where have the fish gone? The place is still beautiful with soft corals everywhere, a few turtles but very few fish. The next 2 dives will be the same.

Frustration, disappointment and sadness. After a little discussion, it seems that the locals are fishing in the "marine park"... 

Two days later the 2 bankas are scheduled for Apo... we will have a short day of rest. That's how much we were marked by this first outing in Apo.

On the way back from the banka (yes there was only one that went out, the group that had booked the second one cancelled at the last minute  ) those who dived there were delighted... obviously there was life...  But it was the first time... or we had fallen on a very bad day. We will have to go back to find out for sure.

A day doing nothing feels good but it's so long .

We will continue by diving on the coast of Dauin to the north and south and for me a little "night dive" on the "House Reef"... and on the last day a single dive on the HR with a very sporty but then very sporty launch and return. 

The photographic harvest was less, as was the quality and variety of the subjects. It's nature, you have to know how to accept it.

A small overview of the result.

More here

 The Thalatta Resort, for those who know it, it's always the same.

You feel good there, you should say: always so good. The restaurant is always good, as is the staff of the whole hotel who are very attentive, helpful and smiling.

No regrets about coming back.

The changes now:

Alex, the new owner, obviously has plans not to change anything... i.e. to keep this family atmosphere. Keeping the same concept of what Patrick has built. But there is an important point, he intends to do better...

To improve the Thalata little by little, in small steps and I don't doubt for a moment that he will succeed. He started by redoing the inflation installation

New compressors, and nitrox per membrane... The best of the best, a very good start.

On the hotel side, renovation work is being carried out everywhere. Small things like the restaurant toilets, the new fresco and different layouts tested. Everywhere, gardeners are replanting new plants to further embellish the setting. I like it. At the bar, installation of shade sails so that you can sit there during the day.

I'm curious to see how it will evolve in a few months.

Anyway, you can go quietly, you won't be disappointed, the Thalatta Resort is a place made for divers. If you stop by the Paris Dive Show, there should be a booth with the Thalatta. Alex should be there with the former owner Patrick.

We will go there to say hello to them.

There is a difference between Patrick and Alex.... Patrick didn't dive, Alex, yes and he's not a beginner.... I believe that there will be positive surprises in the future on the diving side.

Small downside... As a child, the prices of the dives have increased slightly.

After 2 stays of 10 and 8 nights I will not hesitate for a moment to go back but at another time when there is more life... why not spend Christmas 2025 there... the whole team is well on its way to make the atmosphere there, with the decoration and a nice "Christmas menu"... I almost placed an order .

 Let's move on to the 3rd part of our stay.

Once again we made the choice to go back where we would be sure not to be disappointed. 

Yes, yes I know maybe we should go elsewhere to be more adventurous... Of course not. I totally assume this choice to return in order to enjoy even more and a little differently.

We appreciate finding what we loved, in order to savor the place once again.  If possible, we do a small combination of safe bets with "experimentation". The next trip will again be in this style 2/3 of novelty and to finish 1/3 back...

But let's get back to this trip which ends in an hour with our landing in Zurich.

Anda in the south-east of the island of Bohol is a remote place, it is the price to pay to find the calm... almost 3 hours drive from Tagbilaran without counting the 2 hour crossing by speedboat from Dumaguete.

We will arrive at nightfall... very tired but happy to find the Island View Beachfront Resort  that we had found magical the first time. Peter the owner has made small improvements such as terraces on the front of the cabanas bungalows.

Sorry for posting all this pictures but it is such a lovely place. 

 The restaurant, the "Old Plantation" is always at the top, the reference in Anda, and guests from other hotels come there to treat themselves.

We had a great time...

Too much maybe the scale won't like it, I'm afraid.

After a visit to the room, we meet at the bar, Hubert the boss of Anda Scuba Diving whom we did not know yet since he was in France during our 1st visit. There is also Olivier who is in his third season here. Zack, with whom we had dived in 2022, has returned to France.

Nice contact and appointment for the next day before 8 am for the paperwork and our first dive.

After a restful night, we are at the club with "Captain Thomas" still in place, but now there is still Jason, a young Filipino, who takes care of the inflation and supports Thomas in all the preparations on the boat. He looks serious and during our stay he passed his Open Water. Hubert intends to train him to become a guide, and thus expand the team.

The boat...

It was replaced by a larger one but kept the same flat bottom philosophy in order to be able to sail in a few centimeters of water and be able to approach the beach at low tide.

I find it really very good, comfortable, the edge is very wide, you are well seated and equipped with the block, it can be placed stable on it while waiting for the launch.

The service is top-notch, and the security system is at the forefront. Only downside, yes I know I'm a born complainer there are only S80s.... But Hubert is well aware that it will be necessary to invest in some S100 in order to make heavy consumers feel comfortable and safe. I managed but I admit that I was a bit frustrated to often stay a little higher, just to keep the hour of diving... on the other hand I never used my reserve on fins which came out regularly with 100 bar... I let her enjoy her dives without playing parasite, attached to the rescue.

Underwater, the same as elsewhere, less life and always the same reasons given. Not really the season, and in addition the water being particularly hot it seems to accentuate the phenomenon.

In the end, the water lost 1 to 2 °C, going from 30 to sometimes 28 on the last day. There were quite a few turtles 2 years ago... But this year we have moved to a whole new level. There are many more of them and they are less shy. I think we are slowly approaching the "level" of Bunaken. Awesome.

 Unlike Dauin, we had a very calm sea being protected from the wind by the big island of Bohol. Very well.

We enjoyed ourselves even if, as already said, I regret a little lack of life. But the last 2 days, there was starting to be a little more to see. According to Hubert, the high season is fast approaching,

More to watch here

On the diving side, as well as on the hotel and restaurant side, no regrets about having gone back to dive in Anda and as for the Thalatta I can only recommend the address.

If the opportunity arises, we will return without the slightest hesitation.

It's a good way to end a stay, with a little more upscale services.

Depending on the return flight, it is necessary to leave a day earlier and spend a night not too far from the airport. This was our case. We made it simple by going to the Waterfront right next to the airport. Decent room, big and beautiful pool but on the restaurant side there is better. I regretted not having dinner while having a simple meal in the domestic flight airport lobby right in front of the hotel.

In Singapore, the work is now complete. There weren't too many people I found, at least that's my impression. Singapore Air nothing to say, the economy class is not bad and when you see the comfort that those who fly in business class can have... I understand why this company is always so well ranked.

Here we are back in Europe and tomorrow work resumes. The 7-hour time difference is really complicated on the way back, on the way there it goes very well.

Who knows why

Nice little trip of more than 3 weeks including the trips.

But small frustrations due to a lack of life, yes, yes I'm jaded, there's no need to remind myself of that. Just like the weather which was not at the top of the best and which could have led to even more serious consequences for my partner's ankle. We were hot on this one. In the end, I dived a little less than expected with only 47 dives distributed like this: Maolboal: 11, Dauin: 16 and Anda: 20

On average, they had 1 hour, a maximum depth of 34m and only 3 dives of more than 30.  A hiccup with a 38-minute dive because a member of the group was at 40 bar after 35 minutes of diving

Now I'm going to get ready for the next trip which will be soon and to a mythical destination for divers, Raja Ampat with a short week in Lembeh on the way back, a destination just as famous for its Muck Dive.

Thanks for reading.  I publish the report in french and used the automatic translate module of Microsoft Word.
I hope this stay comprehensible and you enjoy my report.

Feel free to ask if you have question. Comment are also welcome.

Hugues

Raja Ampat is universally known as "The Heart of Coral Triangle”, for its unrivaled wealth, including: 540 hard coral species (more than 75% of the world's coral species); 60 types of crayfish; 1,070 types of reef fish; 699 types of mollusks. Also on land, Raja Ampat has incredible diversities: over 874 plant species that 9 are endemic and 6 are protected species, of which 360 species are trees. Also there are 114 species of herpetofauna with 5 species of which are endemic and 5 other species are protected. There are also 47 species of mammals, of which 1 is endemic and 3 is protected. And lastly, there are 274 bird species with 6 species of which are endemic and 8 species are also included in the protected category. This mega-biodiversity and various types of endemic flora and fauna that cannot be found anywhere in the world.

For that reason, 66% of Raja Ampat's terrestrial area is a Nature Reserve or Conservation Area, and  5 Regional Water Conservation Areas or KKPDs cover an area of 1,125,940 hectares.

The epitome of Raja Ampat's beauty is found in the Misool area, which, due to its distance from the more frequented areas, and the very strict management policy of the marine park, allows marine life to continue to thrive.

I’ve visited Raja Ampat 3 times, and every time I go back I feel that, unlike many other places I have visited, the marine life here doesn’t seem to suffer the anthropic pressure, a sign that environmental protection and public awareness are working extensively.

The heart-shaped lagoon of KARAWAPOP Geosite

The last time I visited Misool, I was on a cruise aboard the Gaia Love vessel, after a long crossing from Ternate (Halmahera), which I have already talked about in a previous article.

The first stop in the Misool area was at Pele island. We dove sites as Pele’s Playground, Kaleidosoope and Toblerone, all with wonderful corals and pelagic life. I was amazed by the colors of Kaleidoscope, and I understood why this site was named like that.

The Gaia Love at sunset, moored in the Pele area 

Moving east from Pele, we arrive in the Fiabacet/Warakaraket area, near the Misool eco resort. Here we can find some of the most iconic dive spots in Misool, such as Nudi rock, Magic Mountain, Boo Windows, Four Kings, just to name a few! The abundance of life and color in these areas is absolutely astonishing. 

We stayed in the area for the rest of the cruise, being able to count on an infinite number of fantastic dive sites in a very short distance. My favorites were, once again, Boo Windows and Four Kings. 

Between the spectacular cliffs of Boo and the pinnacles of 4 Kings every encounter is possible, even with our beloved winged friends, the Mantas. Here we had the privilege of swimming in very close contact with a majestic oceanic manta that stayed with us for almost the entire dive, making some laps and then coming back to greet us.

Finally, after 11 days of fantastic diving, we set sail for our port of disembarkation, Sorong. I must say with a lot of melancholy, since these places enter your soul and you never want to leave them.

Conclusions.

My experience on this cruise, which started in Ternate and ended in Sorong, touching the most beautiful places in Halmahera and Misool, was absolutely extraordinary.

I have to thank all the staff of Gaia Love who made sure that every moment of the crossing was unforgettable, starting from the top-quality food, to the diving guides who were always very attentive and who always made us feel safe and protected. I would also like to thank the officers on board who were always able to manage all the moments of the cruise with the highest professionalism.
As for the photographic equipment, for those who are curious, I recommend reading the previous article where I detailed everything.
See you next time!

Pietro Cremone

Text and images: Davide De Benedictis - Claudio Valerio

Cover photo: Marco Bartolomucci

If we told you how long we've been diving, you'd immediately know how old we are. We'd just tell you that we've been diving for a long time and that our passion for the sea has always been a part of us.

We've spent most of our time in the Mediterranean, and by diving year-round, we've seen the gradual changes in the sea we love the most.
A while back, we observed some novice divers during our decompression stop and wondered what it was like for them exploring the seafloor. Are they aware of the changes they're witnessing, or are they unwitting victims of shifting baseline syndrome?

Unfortunately, this is what we've been observing for years in the Mediterranean during the summer: a carpet of mucilage in the first few meters of depth.

The video text is based on Greta Thunberg's famous speech at the Youth4Climate event in Milan in 2021. This speech, with its great impact and appealing style, has been used in lots of different contexts. However, to my knowledge, it hasn't been used in relation to the marine world.
When we were editing the images, we thought of the old saying "Once it was all countryside here", which makes you think about the past in a nostalgic way. But even the most overused clichés have a grain of truth.
To paraphrase the cliché, we could say that "Once it was all sargassum and Cystoseira here". These seaweeds, which are common in the Mediterranean, were an important part of the marine ecosystem. There were large groups of Sargassum and Cystoseira, which alternated with Posidonia oceanica bushes and seafloors covered with calcareous algae (maerl). Some of the algae were the size of a fist. The bottoms were also decorated with white gorgonians, which are typical of these shallow waters.
Today, although these species are still present, many of them are difficult to observe and suffer from a thick layer of mucilage covering them. This is now so common during the summer months that only those with long diving experience, or observing the seabed in winter, can tell the difference.

When we showed these images to  a non-diving audience, even though we had a marine biologist explain them, they were still pretty skeptical until we showed them exactly the same places filmed  in winter and spring before temperature rises. Then they finally understood what we were talking about:

These two short videos show how challenging it is to communicate the changes taking place in the oceans. The warming waters and human activities are affecting underwater ecosystems just as much as they are affecting land ecosystems. But underwater, the problem is even more pronounced. There's a lack of historical data, which makes it tough to grasp how marine environments are changing (again, it's the shifting baseline syndrome). Plus, our direct experience of the underwater world is limited.
Everyone can see the effects of fires in the Amazon rainforest on the news or watch the urban landscape change from the car window. But what's going on underwater?
This is why it's so important to communicate the importance of marine ecosystem conservation in a clear and urgent way. This is the challenge we're up against.

Given the lack of inspiration in our recreational diving, we've been wondering if there's somewhere where these changes haven't happened yet. It's probably the so-called "mesophotic zone or twilight zone", which is the bathymetric range in the Mediterranean from fifty to one hundred and twenty meters deep. As depth increases in this zone, plant life gradually makes way for animal life due to the decreasing levels of light. Recently, this zone has become really important for studying how climate and human activities are affecting our oceans. It's a completely undiscovered world that could be home to species that could be valuable resources for addressing problems related to global warming and overfishing in the surface marine zone.
The trailer on our Underwater Italy channel gives you a sneak peek of the mesophotic seafloor of the Mediterranean.

A while back, whenever we talked about our passion for deep diving, the response was always the same: "Why go to the trouble of going deep when there's so much to see here on the surface?" And then, of course, there was the inevitable warning about the dangers of deep diving.
How could they be blamed for that? Back then, going beyond the limits of recreational diving was all about deep air and not much else. As it turns out, today in the Mediterranean, we can only observe intact ecosystems through deep diving, and the tools of technical diving allow us to do so in reasonable safety.

However, even in these environments, things are changing. For years, we've been seeing signs of suffering in marine animal forests, even in the shallowest parts of the "mesophotic zone". This shows that the effects of climate change are constantly evolving.
Here's an example of what's happening to some of the seabed in the Tuscan archipelago, between 50 and 70 meters deep.

It seems that the damage is not only proportional to depth, but probably also depends on other factors such as currents and the morphology of the seabed. To get a full understanding of this phenomenon, further scientific studies will be needed. As divers, our role is simply to observe.

It's crucial that we keep an eye on these changes in marine ecosystems and keep documentation up to date. Every observation and piece of research helps us to understand our underwater environment better. It's essential that we pay attention and put in the effort to adapt our conservation strategies so that we can meet the challenges that climate change poses. It's an ongoing process, but it's vital to preserve the wonders of the sea for future generations.
 

In April 2024, I took a memorable cruise, with the itinerary covering from Halmahera to Sorong, crossing some of the most iconic dive sites in Indonesia.

In this article I will cover the first part of the journey, the one from Ternate to Pisang. I will add a second article focusing on the Raja Ampat and Misool area. 

I was onboard the beautiful GAIA LOVE vessel, a beautiful modern motor yacht, purpose built to explore the far-reach regions of Indonesia.

This was the itinerary: 

The embarkation point was in Ternate, a city steeped in history. Once a major spice trading center, Ternate still exudes a colonial charm. Ternate Island is known for its historical sites and stunning beaches.

Ternate, Al-Munawaroh Mosque, also called it “Masjid Terapung”, or "the floating mosque" because the structure was built by the sea, looking like floating on it.

The first dives of the trip were in the Halmahera/Jailolo surroundings, and since the first jump I was delighted by the wonderful and pristine reefs of the region. 

The highlight of this sites are the big sponges, often covered with white sea cucumbers that give the sponges the effect of a decoration. 

After Jailolo, we headed to the Goraichi islands, where we stay for 2 days and six dives. The small archipelago of Goraichi lies around 50-kilometres southwest.

Another small cay of Goraichi's archipelago

The locals here have a reputation as environmentalists, and the healthy coral reefs abound with macro marine life, offering fantastic opportunities for photography and night diving. In addition, there are also beautiful coral-covered walls to explore. 

Left the Goraichi's, we headed to South Halmahera, where we had another day packed with wonderful reefs and the highlight of a night muck dive in Penambuan. 

A small village in South Halmahera

Then, we left Halmahera, crossing to Pisang.

Pulau Pisang is located around 70-kilometres southwest of Damar Island, where the Halmahera and Ceram seas meet, making it a common stop for liveaboards as they cross to and from Raja Ampat. 

The diving here focuses on a series of underwater ridges that connect the main island to several smaller surrounding islands and feature large pinnacles covered with branching corals. 

I still found wonderful and healty reefs, teeming with life and, apparently, not yet polluted with plastic. 

During all the trip, we had calm seas and good visibility, that granted me the opportunity to get many good shots. 

The equipment:

For this trip, I used the SONY A7RV, in a Nauticam housing, teamed with the Nikonos RS 13mm, adapted for SONY mirrorless by Isaac Szabo. I am using this fantastic lens since 2014, but with the adaption for Sony, Isaac made a fantastic job, making the lens yet more performing! 

Lighting was granted by SUPE D-pro strobes, with an even and powerul beam that well couples with the great field of view of the RS 13mm. 

The Boat:

I was onboard the GAIA LOVE, a 40mt. steel motor yacht.

The GAIA LOVE in front of Pulau Pisang

The Gaia Love offers the guest contemporary settings, plenty of space and comfort, and a wonderful experience. I have tried many liveaboards before, but since when I boarded on Gaia I felt like it is a different level from the other boats! As a photographer, I was amazed by the great spaces that are available for the equipment, starting from the gorgeous and climatised camera room, and ending to the personal rinse tank that you havd on the diving deck, just in front of your personal place. 

The experience on board was then completed by delicious gourmet food , and a fantastic crew always ready to pamper the guests.

The spacious camera room 

Conclusions:

The first leg of the trip, covering the Halmahera region, was a great experience for me. It was the first time I dove these waters and I was really amazed for the richness of the reefs and the absolute sense of wilderness, we found maybe a couple of other liveaboards during the journey, and we always were the sole boat diving in any place!

I will cover the second leg of the trip in a next article, please stay tuned.. 

Cheers!

Pietro Cremone

I became aware of Providencia island as a diving destination, when I asked in Scubaboard for a Caribbean diving destination that still offers intact reefs and sealife and is not overrun by tourism (my Caribbean diving experience was, so far, limited to a stay in the early 90ies at Grand Cayman and two stays on the Florida Key Islands around 2000). Instigated by a very positive recommendation, Lisi, me and two friends (Franz and Gerdi) headed towards Providencia Island in March 2024...  

The tiny island belongs politically to Columbia, but is located in the western Caribbean approx. 150 km off the coast, at the geographical height of Nicaragua. It is located close to another, bigger, island, San Andres and belongs to the San Andres archipelago.

Before I start to report about this remarkable diving and UW-photography journey, it is important to state that this is certainly NOT a diving destination for everybody. Do not attempt to undertake this trip, unless you are prepared to deal with the toils listed below, otherwise the trip may become a nightmare:

(i) Arrival and departure to and from Providencia is very tedious: For us Austrians this means a flight from Vienna to Paris, followed by a long flight from Paris to Bogota, the capital of Columbia. After arriving at Bogota in the late evening and spending the night in a hotel near the airport, we took a flight from Bogota to San Andres. After spending another night in San Andres, we headed finally to our destination, Providencia. Satena, a small domestic airline, operates the route from San Andres to Providencia with small turboprop aircrafts that remind me at daring bumblebees (especially landing and taking off on the small landing strip on Providencia is an adventure for itself). The check-in luggage is restricted to 15 kg (), but more luggage is allowed upon extra payment, so no problem. The problem was that three suitcases got lost, already on the flight from Paris to Bogota and these delayed suitcases are not automatically transported to the final destination. It took us three days, a lot of efforts and nerves, numerous phonecalls and the dedicated help of Nelson, an employee of a concurrent domestic airline at San Andres, until we had our complete photographic equipment on site (we were three UW-photographers). Departure from Providencia was the same, but in reverse order, but this time there were no problems with luggage. Just count with three days for each direction...

(ii) Tourism on Providencia island is simple. There has been once a small, single hotel with enclosed PADI diving base on the island, called "Sirius". The complex had been completely destroyed by Hurrican Iota in 2020. Since then, only very simple accomodation is available in private "Posadas" on bed and breakfast basis. There is no "cold" or "hot" water, it comes just at the temperature as it is available at the container on top of the building. Some apartments have a gas stove for preparing food. In SW-Bay (the biggest beach in Providencia) there was a a single and small restaurant ("Divino Nino") that offered delicious food for little money. For the spoiled ones amongst us, the choice between fish, shrimps or lobster may be a little bit repetitive, howsoever...

I can say that the inhabitants of Providencia are very relaxed and exceptionally friendly to foreigners. Spanish is the official language, but they speak Creole amongst them and many know English. Few tourists from Colombia come to spend simple, nature bound, holidays. In addition to the general tourists, there are few divers, mostly from Colombia, but also others from all over the world (Providencia is not a complete insider tip any more). In the two weeks we stayed at Providencia, we met divers from Colombia, Australia, Belgium, Canada, France, Germany and USA. Daniel, the busy and helpful owner of "Sirius Diving" has established a new replacement diving base, located close to the original, but destroyed, one (there are plans to reestablish hotel and original diving base, but the opening day is uncertain...).

The small island is located in Caribbean high seas and is surrounded by a massive reef. The diving spots, both on the outside as well as inside the reef, are reached by small boats. Visibility in "Carribbean blue" waters is good, I estimate 20m to 25m. The reefs are typical for the Carribean, with few stone corals, but plenty of horn and fan corals and impressive sponges. They looked completely intact to me, I could not see signs of bleaching or pollution (some hard corals were broken, presumably from the hurricane).

Here a facette of the typical reefscape at the outer reef. While I was trying to adjust flashes and camera to make a photo of the reefscape and the three langusts, a juvenile reef shark swam into the frame and destroyed my composition .

Sony A7R5, Canon 8-15mm @15mm, 140mm domeport, 1/160s, f/9, ISO 250, 2*Z330.

The highlight for UW-photographers on Providencia island is certainly the Caribbean reef shark (Carcharhinus perezi). They live (still) in high numbers around the island. This species appears to be the Caribbean counterpart of the grey reefshark, that lives in the Indopacific (Carcharinhus amblyrynchus). They are "just" reefsharks, but some specimen can grow to quite formidable size (I estimate the individuals that we encountered to measure between 1 m and 2.5 m). The photo shows Gerdi taking a photo of a Carribbean reef shark at the outer reef:

Sony A7R5, Sony 28-60mm @28mm, WACP-C, 1/200s, f/9, ISO 250, 2*Z330.

These sharks are anything but shy and approach the divers as soon as the divers come close to the drop off at the outer reef (they are not fed or baited by the diving base). From few up to a dozen of these animals would encircle the divers during the entire dive and make outstanding motifs for UW photographers.

Reef shark against the reef :

Sony A7R5, Sony 20-70mm @20mm, 170mm domeport, 1/160s, f/9, ISO 400, 2*Z330.

The Carribbean reefsharks at Providencia island are curious and investigative. Seldom but sometimes, they would come extremely close, almost touching the domeport, in order to check you out. At a few cm distance they would haul off and continue to encircle the divers at greater distance. Only once during the entire period of two weeks, a shark was exerting threatening behaviour against me, i.e. lowering his head and starting jittering with his pectoral fins just in front of me at arms length (I believe that this shark was feeling restricted, as I was positioning myself directly in his swimming direction to get a frontal photo, and Lisi, who was beside me, also taking photos, and the close coral wall dropoff - all contributed to the restriction). After Lisi and me swiftly retracted (better listen, when such an animals wants to tell you something ), the shark continued to swim speedily back and forth along the reef edge, repeatedly and fast opening and closing its mouth. At this point I should say that Carcharhinus perezi is considered harmless to humans, but attacks on humans after neglecting such threatening behaviour have been reported.

Reef shark checking me out and hauling off afterwards:

Sony A7R5, Sony 28-60mm @60mm, WACP-C, 1/160s, f/9, ISO 400, 2*Z330.

A wreck, "El Planchon", is located at the bottom of the coral reefs surrounding Providencia island. Our guide, Carol, told us, that it had been a Colombian ship supporting German submarines with replenishment of all kind during WWII. When the end of the war was close, captain and crew decided that it is time to go home and sunk the ship upon translating their thoughts into action (happy people!). Today the wreck is home to triggerfish, groupers and impressive reefsharks as guardians.

Grouper at "El Planchon":

Sony A7R5, Sony 28-60mm @60mm, WACP-C, 1/200s, f/11, ISO 200, 2*Z330.

The diving at Sirius diving base is typically done with the first dive in the morning at the outer reef and, after sufficient surface interval, the second dive in shallow and sheltered areas within the reef. These areas provide shelter for impressive schools of snappers, grunts and sweetlips, juvenile fish of all kind, puffer fish, nurse sharks and other kind of marine life (we even ecountered a group of friendly purpoises, but they were too far away to take reasonable photos in good quality). 

Mixed school of bluestriped grunts (Hemulon scirius) and French grunts (Hemulon flavilineatum ) at Tete's place:

Sony A7R5, Sony 28-60mm @28mm, WACP-C, 1/160s, f/11, ISO 160, 2*Z330.

Mixed swarm of French grunts (Hemulon flavilineatum) and squirrelfish (Holocentrus atcensionis). A school of other fish passes by in the background.

Sony A7R5, Canon 8-15mm @15mm, 140mm domeport, 1/160s, f/16, ISO 320, 2*Z330.

Closeup of a shool of grey grunts (Haemulon album):

Sony A7R5, Sony 20-70mm @70mm, 170mm domeport, 1/200s, f/10, ISO 100, 2*Z330.

West Atlantic trumpetfish (Aulostomus maculatus), well camouflaged in a gorgonian octocoral:

Sony A7R5, Sony 20-70mm @70mm, 170mm domeport, 1/160s, f/11, ISO 100, 2*Z330.

I must admit that I was so impressed by the variety of WA (and fishportrait) motifs (first of all the charismatic Charcharhinus perezi, that were an abundant motif at Providencia and whom I, personally, met the first time in my life), that I did not use my macro setup for even a single dive. Instead I was using WACP-C/Sony 28-60m, Canon 8-15mm and Sony 20-70mm for all dives (in this order). The period of two week diving was too short and it would have been better to stay for another, additional, week to exploit the beautiful macro motifs, including snails and shrimps, that we encountered...

As a proof here a Flamingo tongue snail (Cyphoma gibbosus), feeding on gorgonia, taken with the fisheye lens:

Sony A7R5, Canon 8-15mm @15mm, 140mm domeport, 1/160s, f/16, ISO 100, 2*Z330.

The scubadiving holidays at Providencia island were an exceptional experience for all four of us, with font memories that will endure...

Hi Everyone,

I would like to share with everyone this article that i have published on my site. In a time where we are constantly pushed by social media to publish images faster and faster i am noticing around me more and more malpractices on land and of course also underwater.

This is an article initially in french translated by myself in English do forgive me if there any errors.

https://scuba-people.com/en/banner/the-other-face-of-underwater-photography-ethical-dilemmas

Thanks for reading

Traveling 12,000 miles (19,600km); flying for 24 hours, followed by a 2-1/2 hour drive, and then a 1 hour boat ride, all to get to the Poor Knights Islands in New Zealand. Mon Dieu! OK, I hate to admit it, but he was right, it is one of the world’s top 10 diving destinations.

Created by volcanic eruptions about 10 million years ago, they’ve become home to a myriad of marine life. There are over 50 different dive sites around the islands, such as the Northern Arch, Blue Maomao Arch, the Magic Wall, and the Rikoriko Cave (one of the world’s largest sea caves), each with its own amazing experience.

From the macro to the micro, it’s all here. Pods of Orca patrol the area looking for their favorite Kiwi dish, the rays. Both stingrays and eagle rays visit the islands. Clouds of fish school through the kelp forests keeping a watchful eye for other predators like sharks that frequent the Poor Knights. At the same time, I’ve never experienced marine life so fearless of human beings. I would even say they are downright friendly! Some of them are even a bit of a pain, such as the incredibly curious Sandager’s Wrasse.

On the other end of the scale, small creatures inhabit every nook and cranny along with urchins, anemones, sponges and gorgonian corals. They’re so plentiful it’s hard to imagine. Many of the subtropical fish living in the Poor Knights are not found anywhere else in New Zealand. They include species such as the spotted Black Grouper, Mosaic Moray, and Lord Howe Coralfish. And lest we not forget the nudibranchs. Unquestionably, some of the most colorful and unusual nudibranchs I have ever seen are in the Poor Knights. Every color and shape imaginable including New Zealand’s “lovliest nudibranch”, the Gem Doris (or Gem Nudibranch). They too are everywhere to be found.

At the Northern Arch, squadrons of Short-Tailed Stingrays can be seen cruising the waters of the archway in the summer months. It’s the only gathering of its kind that has been documented for this species; come winter and it’s a “ghost-town”. Nobody knows exactly where the stingrays go during the winter. However, recent research seems to indicate that the stingrays actually stay within 30km of the Arch.

The Blue Maomao Arch is (not surprisingly) named for its aggregation of the Blue Maomao fish Scorpis violacea. Massive schools of the fish congregate in the huge natural archway, which is flooded with rays of light from the top and sides. Layers upon layers of fish migrate through the arch, so much so that sometimes you cannot see the other end of the archway, even in clear water. It’s an awe-inspiring experience. And while I wouldn’t think of besmirching one of New Zealand’s most famous dive sites, my favorite fish is actually the Blue Demoiselle (sorry Blue Maomao fans).

They say that the “ends justifies the means”, and in the case of the Poor Knights Islands, it’s a good thing that it’s true. Getting there will definitely try your patience (and backside). But in the end (pun intended), it’s absolutely worth it.

Many thanks to Darryl Lowndes and Johnny Zhao for help with the videos.

How to

I can still remember me sitting in a hotel lobby after a Lake Baikal tour in 2014, reading a dive operator newsletter about “Snorkeling with Orcas in Norway”. I just thought, “ Are they crazy,  snorkeling with Orcas?! Definitely not, that’s too dangerous!”

Well, the years passed and everyone returned in one piece from these tours. Over all these years the Orca action doesn't seem to be letting up, based on reliable first-hand information, and because I upgraded my camera setup, I decided to travel to Norway too. More specifically, to Northern Norway.  I flew in to Tromsö, took the fast ferry on the same day to an island called Skjervoy. The ferry ride is 2 1/2 hours, by car its a 3 ½ hours (250km) drive.

World map with Skjervoy

Europe map with Skjervoy

Skjervoy detail maps

What actually happens there

During the winter months uncountable tons of herring migrate to the fjords to overwinter and apparently to rest there. Orcas, Humpback-, Finn- and Minke whales follow the herring and eat their fill. Even Sperm whales have been seen there. The fjord of Skjervoy has been a reliable place for this for 8 winters now. Before the action happened around Tromsö, in Andfjord and Senja or Tysfjord. As a result, Orca watching and snorkeling has become a big business in this area.

This is a picture from the sonar screen. On the left side of the screen you see the seafloor topography and the depth under the boat with 164m. On the right side you can see, that the sonar measures only 139m. What’s wrong? The herring gathered so tense the sonar didn’t reach the actually seafloor and assumed the herring as the seafloor! The red color on the screen are the fish. The fish start at around 115,5m, probably all the way to the seafloor - around 50 to 60m of fish in the water column. How amazing is that!? In the blue area of the screen, right under the top white line, on the left side, you can see greenish dots - that’s a Finnwhale. Another one is at around 75m on the right side of the screen

Liveaboard or landbased

There are several large liveaboards that offer short trips of just a few days, up to a week. The large ships have the advantage that they start in Tromsö, can travel long distances in any weather conditions to find Orcas and avoid so the fleet of small boats, which don´t have such a big ranges. But once you've found Orcas, you're sitting on a dingi and are exposed to the cold wind. During my stay it was plus 3 degrees to minus 6 degrees Celsius.

I booked with my long trusted tour operator for Nordic regions: Northern Explorers. He put me on a small cabin cruiser boat. In my opinion, sufficient enough for the fjord, protection from the wind, spaces to sit in a normal position, a toilet. What else do you need? Orcas, of course.

I booked two trips in a row to have more opportunities to get footage and in case of days lost due bad weather. I have been to such northern regions many times and had, the one and the other, day lost due weather conditions. So I thought two tours are a smart decision. And it was again. 13 days on the water, 3 days without Orcas sightings (due high waves the searching area decreased and even if we have found Orcas it would have been too risky to get in and out of the water), 1 day we found Orcas, but the group was avoiding us, so we didn't get in the water.

Freedive equipment

Anyone who has ever tried snorkeling in a drysuit knows that's not really possible. I was advised to get a Smoothskin - Open Cell freedive wetsuit. Water temperature was around 5 to 6 degrees Celsius. I decided for a 7mm. Normally wetsuits have a layer of fabric over the neoprene to protect it. Open cell smoothskin apnea suits do not have this linen. Open Cell inside is a porous neoprene layer without any coating. And because it’s porous, the open cells/microscopic bubbles attach to the skin by creating a vacuum and therefore, the suits usually fit like a second skin and keep very warm. Unfortunately, this advantage also makes the wetsuit much more fragile than the nylon lined insider. If you want to put this suit on or off, you definitely need water and soap. Smooth Skin on the outside has also no fabric and dries immediately. In addition is used freedive fins and a weight vest. For the case I wanted to stay longer underwater, like at a bait ball, I used a 7 liter tank on a backplate. I did a test dive in a lake before, to check the approx weights and how to manage the buoyancy without a BCD.

Looking for orcas

Approaching a pod of orcas

Orcas and a small humpback whale in the background

Camera gear

I used my Red Komodo due the larger sensor size and left the Panasonic GH5 at home. Although the smaller GH5 housing would have been much easier to snorkel and free dive with. I switched between 18-55mm (with IBIS) and 28-70mm (no IBIS) lenses. Behind the WACP1 they give me 123 and 90 degree converted FOV. Filmed in 6K, 17:9, 24fps.

For the topside shots I used a DJI Mavic 2Pro and Panasonic GH5 on a gimbal with a 12-60mm and a 100-300mm lens

Daily routine

At this latitude the sun in November just barely comes over the horizon and days get shorter loosing 12 minutes of daylight every day. Due the low sun the colors in the sky can be unreal and reminded me sometimes on Old Master paintings.

Beautiful mood under the water surface. Orcas are missing in this shot

We headed in the areas where herring fishing was going on during the night. Apps, like Marine Traffic, are very useful for that. As we headed out we have always been on the outlook for Orcas. We also oriented at the Marine Traffic locations of the liveaboards. It was a good sign, if they didn´t move the vessels. Hints from other boats were also shared.

Once we had found an Orca pod, we followed them at their side for a while. If the Orcas seem to accept us, the guide gets the boat in a good position to drop us. Then it was all up to the Orcas. Is it just a quick swim by, a dive down or an interested interaction.

Ready to go!

Due a hint from a liveaboard guest and Marine Traffic position we headed far north. The weather and the sea forecast was okay, so the long way was doable. We encountered a very relaxed Orca group, swimming back and forth, circling around us several times. Unfortunately we had to finish this interaction too early, it was a long way back, and the night slowly fell, shortly after noon. Two uncut
clips from this group below. Clips are not slowed down.

This is where we found the group. The farthest point we travelled

The main goal is to find Orcas at bait balls. That’s where the action happen! The Orcas rotate and hit the herring with their tail fin. Dazed herrings are eaten then. Bubble feeding is also possible. At my first bait ball I suddenly found myself right in the bubbles. I knew I had to get out of here - immediately! You can't see anything and a Humpback whale can shoot up from the deep at any time.

Herring bait ball

Trying to find a good position

After I found a good position, I let the camera roll and tried a free dive. The free dive was interrupted at 3,6m by heavy oncoming traffic!

I saw two white fins coming up from the dark „a Humpback! Keep the camera steady!“

Humpback whale close encounter

Humpback whale close encounter

Humpback whale close encounter

Humpback whale close encounter

Conclusion

It was a lot of fun and I would do it again! I like the challenge of cold weather, wind and waves, and it were good cardio exercises too. I only wished to get more detailed feeding scenes underwater and by drone the next time. Getting good video footage of Orcas is not easy. I cannot compare it to anything I have ever filmed underwater. Often it is a matter of seconds. If it seemed to be a good boat drop, I
visualized the shot, or what might happen under the surface, before jumping in. Planning the shots in the water first, it's way too late. I realized this after a week.

You can watch the movie from this trip here. And like always…feel free to share, comment, like, dislike and follow! You can make an old man very happy!

See you at the Orcas - cheers, Alex.

St. Eustatius, locally known as Statia, is located in the northeastern Caribbean at a stone’s throw from St. Maarten. While its neighboring island Saba is a well-known diving destination, Statia is often overlooked.

I have lived on Statia on and off for the past 14 years and have spent a good 6 years of my life on the island. I’ve worked at the local dive center and have organized numerous underwater archaeological projects and exploration dives all around the island. As a result, I know Statia’s marine environment very well. I have also dived on nearly every island between Anguilla and Grenada, so I have plenty of comparative insights.

Statia is one of those islands where time has largely stood still. It is not a resort destination. There are no casino’s, clubs, or shopping malls on the island. It’s a very laidback place, 8 square miles in size with a population of about 3,500 people. Everyone waves at each other on the street, people leave their homes unlocked when they leave, and cows, goats, and donkeys roam the streets freely. It’s quirky and not for everyone. If you’re after white sandy beaches and vibrant nightlife, don’t go to Statia. If you’re a nature lover and want to experience diverse diving, beautiful hiking on the dormant Quill volcano, and soak up some fascinating Caribbean history, this is the destination for you.

Getting to Statia is fairly straightforward. You have to fly into St. Maarten first, and from there you either take a ferry or an 18-minute flight with Winair on one of their Twin Otters. There are several accommodation options on the island. If you want to be close to the water and right next to the dive center, I recommend the Old Gin House Hotel. If you don’t mind being further away from the water (a 10-minute drive), I recommend Quill Gardens, a Bed & Breakfast with a beautiful view that’s managed by a lovely Dutch couple who make some of the best food on the island. There are two dive centers on the island. The one I can recommend is Scubaqua (www.scubaqua.com). It is managed by a Dutch couple, Mike and Marieke, who have been on the island for 15 years. They are very passionate about the island and just really nice people. They train their staff very well and it’s a very good and safe operation. Check out their website and TripAdvisor reviews.

As for the diving, it is very diverse, accessible, and uncrowded. All dive sites can be reached within 15 minutes from the dock. Most dive sites have moorings, but some are drift dives. The island’s main reefs are coral-encrusted lava flows situated on a flat sandy bottom, typically between 50 and 60 feet deep. There’s lots of life on these, typical Caribbean reef life with the odd reef shark and eagle ray passing by. These are very good beginner sites, but also great for photographers. My favorite site is one that I discovered several years ago with a ranger from the local marine park. It’s an elongated lava flow named Lost Anchors, after the five historic anchors that were lost on this reef in the colonial period. They are beautifully overgrown and add some history to the dive. Reef sharks are a regular appearance on the site, and you’re usually surrounded by several dozen big barracudas. It’s a more advanced site as it’s a free descent down to 80 feet and located quite far offshore where it can be choppy.

Along the southern part of the island, bordering the dormant volcano, topography gets more dramatic. Here you’ll find steep drop-offs without a bottom, where it’s possible for anything to swim by. This is the most dramatic diving on the island, but not for beginners. Sites like Grand Canyon and Drop-off are not to be missed. If conditions are calm, the northern tip of the island offers some fun dives as well. Here you dive along boulder slides that end in a sandy bottom. Lots of life hides between the boulders, and around the rock called Gibraltar you have a very good place to see sharks as well. This is where great hammerheads sometimes make an appearance (far from guaranteed of course).

There are several wrecks around the island as well. Two modern ones you shouldn’t miss: a 330 ft / 100-meter-long cable layer called the Charles Brown and the Chien Tong, a Taiwanese fishing vessel. Both were purposely sunk. The Charles Brown is home to a large school of horse-eyed jacks and provides lots of good photographic opportunities. Some parts are covered in lots of black coral. The Chien Tong is a fun dive during the day, but I recommend diving it at night, when it becomes a turtle hotel. Turtles from the surrounding area use the wreck as a place to sleep, and it is not uncommon to see 10 or more turtles on a dive. In addition to the turtles, there are lots of other critters that make an appearance. I’ve seen sharks, eagle rays, mating turtles, big stingrays, and every crustacean you can imagine on that wreck at night.

You can even dive historical wreck sites on Statia. At sites such as Double Wreck and Triple Wreck, you can dive among historical artifacts from the colonial period. The wooden ships these artifacts were once part of have disintegrated due to teredo worms, but all the non-organic parts of the vessels are still there. I have conducted many years of archaeological research on these sites, and have learned a lot about them over the years. At these sites, you always see lots of southern stingrays in the sand, and there’s a good chance for turtles as well. These sites are also great for smaller critters such as sea horses and frogfish.

Statia is great for non-divers as well. As I mentioned above, there is great hiking and many historical sites on the island. The black sand beaches are small but uncrowded. Snorkeling is fun, but a bit limited. Very special is to snorkel among the submerged ruins of the 18^th-century port district. Throughout the day, there’s lots of life here, and at dusk, you can spot lemon sharks in this area.

Statia is a very diverse diving destination. While the island (and the Eastern Caribbean in general) doesn’t have the vibrant reefs of the Coral Triangle, the big animals of the Eastern Tropical Pacific, or the fascinating shipwrecks of Truk or the Solomon Islands, it is one of the most varied diving destinations in the Eastern Caribbean. As a photographer or videographer, you have plenty of great opportunities to get interesting shots in a location that is not overcrowded like some sites on Cozumel or Bonaire.

Having said all of that, we also have to be realistic and look at the not so bright side. The island is changing rapidly. There is now a big development on the eastern side of the island, where a large resort has recently opened. Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease is wreaking havoc throughout the Caribbean, and Statia’s reefs are not immune to it. Moreover, the island experiences the effects of hurricanes, which can cause difficulties getting to the island and can change the marine environment dramatically. Eastern Caribbean reefs are not pristine environments anymore, far from it. There’s a general lack of top predators on the reefs, acropora corals have been decimated, and many species are heavily overfished. But within this context, there is still fun diving on Statia. Here you can get away from the crowds and experience the Caribbean like it was on other islands 50 years ago. Therefore I recommend it for anyone wanting to take a trip to the Eastern Caribbean and go off the beaten path.

Bring a fisheye lens to capture expansive reef scenes

A frogfish at Double Wreck

An 18th-century anchor at the Lost Anchors site

Snorkeling among the submerged 18th-century warehouse ruins just offshore

The island has a lot to offer topside as well, such as hiking the 2,000-foot-high Quill volcano. You can even hike down into the crater.

INTRODUCTION - JAPAN AS A DIVING DESTINATION

The key word for Japanese diving is probably variety, as it is rare for a single country to offer so much underwater diversity.
Looking at maps of Japan offers insights into why this might be the case:  the Japanese islands have a unique profile and geographical position, spanning over 3,000 km across extreme latitudes, with conditions ranging from the subarctic in the north to the strongly subtropical in the far south.

Map of the Japanese islands and submarine contours – Image source: Ryuichi Shinjo researchgate.net

As an island nation made up of almost 7,000 islands, Japan has nearly 34,000 km of coastline exposed to key warm and cold-water currents and a wide seasonal temperature range, which contributes to giving Japanese waters their remarkable biodiversity.
Each area has its own unique underwater fauna, flora and coastal ecosystems, offering rich and varied diving environments and opportunities.

Japan’s diving highlights include coral reefs, wrecks, remote islands, volcanic topography, caves and lakes, and a few specialist activities such as chummed shark dives, ice diving, black-water diving, not to mention world-class macro subjects, schooling hammerheads, marine mammals and a remarkable overall biodiversity, endemism, and more…

School of hammerhead sharks in Mikoto, Izu Peninsula. Image source: Dive-in-japan.com / Mikomoto Hammers
 

No point in the country is more than 150 km from the sea, and over 2000 dive spots are listed across the archipelago. These include numerous shore-diving options - the most commonly found form of local diving on the rocky shores of the main islands - but also some good lake diving options as well as boat diving, ranging from comfortable, dedicated dive boats to very basic converted fishing vessels.

And yet Japan’s reputation as a diving destination has been, so far, largely restricted to a domestic clientele of Japanese divers and foreigners living in Japan.

This is first and foremost because of Japan’s many other strengths as a tourism destination – with so much to see and do on dry land, most visitors – even keen divers – tend to concentrate their efforts (at least on their first visits...) on Japan’s rich land-based culture and highlights.

Mount Fuji, as seen from Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi Prefecture -  Image source: Wikipedia
 

Practically, Japanese is a temperate country, and diving activities are seasonal, with most if not all locations having a definite off-season in the winter months, and in season regular cyclonic storms (typhoons) sweep across some of the archipelago’s most popular southern diving areas, which can seriously disrupt plans for a few days...

Diving, while not extraordinarily expensive, is also not particularly cheap compared to major Asian diving destinations and some of Japan’s best diving spots are quite spread out across the country (including more distant areas and remote islands), access to which can be further complicated by the scarce availability of English-language information, especially for areas a little off the beaten track.

However, from the mid-2010s onwards, the Japanese government redefined its approach to international tourism, with a deliberate drive to expand the industry, reaching out to neighbouring Asian countries for more “regional” tourism and also well as promoting a broader range of tourism options, including sports and outdoors activities. 

Out of this drive, came the idea of “opening up” Japan to dive tourism  which – with the exception of the subtropical Okinawa region and the Japanese domestic diver circuit – was still very much off the radar.
 

Screenshot of the Japanese National Tourism Organization webpage on diving - Image source: Japan.travel

While initial efforts were aimed at promoting resort-based tourism and introductory level diving in Okinawa, the Japanese archipelago as a whole is now promoted as a solid, world-class diving destination, under a more inclusive and sustainable angle.
 

Scuba-diving is a surprisingly popular activity in Japan, where a thriving, distinct and somewhat self-sufficient dive-culture has evolved over the years, with its own codes, specific interests, publications, equipment brands, and so much more…
Indeed, things are often done a little differently in Japan, and dive culture is no exception. 

One of the most outstanding examples of Japanese diving culture can be found in the remarkable role of the dive-guide, who will normally be guiding in a way local professionals often refer to (not without a hint of pride) as Japanese-style, which we’ll now take a closer look at.

Shore diving on Miyako Island (Okinawa Prefecture). Image source: Japan-guide.com

DIVING "JAPANESE STYLE" ?

On the domestic market, you'll sometimes hear Japanese guides, operators and divers refer to a Japanese style of diving, supposedly distinct from diving experiences offered elsewhere. 
This concept has even made it into mainstream Japanese diving publications such as Marine Diving magazine, where articles discuss what is special about Japanese diving, and particularly the Japanese way of guiding divers underwater.

In Japan, picking out differences - whether real or imagined - is something of a national pastime, with books and TV shows dedicated to the subject. While this tendency can be traced back to the once popular theories of Japanese-ness (Nihonjin-ron) or even to earlier historical nativist schools of thought, it is true that Japanese culture often reshapes its objects into forms rarely encountered elsewhere...

Cover of Diver Magazine N.332 featuring actor/diver Taiyo Sugiura in full Japanese-branded dive gear
Image source: Fujisan / Diver Magazine
 

This process is often amplified by a relative linguistic isolation (a limited dialogue with and exposure to non-Japanese sources), and social aspects (such as hierarchical relationships) which can make things slightly more resistant to change, along with a general fondness for a Japanese way of doing things, often seen improved or a little more advanced than elsewhere...

When it comes to scuba-diving culture, this concerns the role of dive guides and services offered (which, as a non Japanese-speaking diver, you might not experience while diving in Japan, as service will most likely be adapted to your perceived preferences and needs) along with specific interests like endemic species and localism.

Guide lighting up a clownfish while showing his slate. Image source: hirasawa-mc

As a rule, Japanese tourism highly values “local highlights”. Underwater, while Japanese divers enjoy the big stuff or macro subjects as much as any other diver, this also translates to an enthusiasm for underwater species which might be more of a specialist interest elsewhere (such as smaller reef fish), and also in variations in colours, patterns or shapes of the local fauna and flora.

It’s also difficult to mention Japanese underwater interests without mentioning the highly popular gobies and blennies, as well as a fondness for “cute” species, ranging from charming, small-sized subjects and juveniles to critters with exaggerated features, ie slightly grotesque-looking fish.

Because of these commonly shared interests, Japanese dive guides will generally have a much deeper, specialist knowledge of all local and endemic species and provide solid information on juvenile forms and the growth/life cycle of the species, as well as behavioural tips on how to approach sometimes-elusive specimens.
 

Screenshot of a Bali-based Japanese dive center's blogpost on damselfish in Menjangan / Bali
Imge source: Facebook post - Actual blogpost: Oceanlifebali

And after diving, most Japanese dive centres will provide a time dedicated to working on logbooks and/or photo with one’s dive guide, which can range from quite formal to informal sessions, and is also where Japanese dive guides’ extensive knowledge of local marine life can really shine.

While this is not exclusive to Japanese diving (worldwide, logbooking/ fish and photo ID’íng expectations are usually quite high in macro-focused destinations for instance, resorts or liveaboards might offer the services of a live-in marine biologist), it is true that outside Japan the practice of collective logging is often linked to some form of dive training, whereas this is more of a standard and expected service in Japan.

As a side note, many Japanese divers are also very creative with their logbooks, with approaches ranging from cute cartoons to high-end naturalistic fish art - examples of such high level logging can be seen in this Oceana.co.jp post or a Google photo search on the subject.

Logbook page with drawings. Image source: Instagram / Diving logbook artist Nosekana

JAPANESE DIVE GUIDES AND GUIDED DIVING
 

Local ambassadors, naturalists and hosts

To make a broad generalisation, Japanese dive guides are often quite remarkable.
Not so much for diving or safety skills, but for the type service they strive to offer to divers, and also for the local naturalistic knowledge they are required to possess, in order to meet the expectations of the most demanding divers they might be guiding and act as representatives of their local area.

This does not mean that all Japanese dive guides are highly trained marine-biology experts, but they often do have more extensive knowledge about local species and their local environment than most of their non-Japanese counterparts (though there are notable exceptions), which is required and expected in a Japanese diving context.

Dive guides in action：“This snake eel’s head is protruding from the sand”

Highlighting differences between a Blackfin dartfish and a Fire goby – Image source: 4travel.jp
 

It's quite common for guides to do their professional training directly where they will be working, as a form of internship, and dive pros generally stay much longer in one area than their non-Japanese counterparts.

Dive-guide training emphasizes a naturalist approach, with a wealth of knowledge transmission on the local environment, species, marine life cycles and behavioural patterns for instance, aspects which are often lest at the discretion of the dive guide’s personal interests elsewhere.

There are exceptions, of course, but in the global diving industry, it’s common for diving instructors somehow “outrank” dive guides, and in some contexts instructors will mostly be foreigners with language skills while dive guides are experienced locals, with a varying degree of formal training.

This is less common in the Japanese dive industry, where almost all dive guides are instructors themselves, but choose to focus on guiding rather than teaching, as guiding is a highly valued, specialised activity.

In Japan, there is a high respect for what is known as veteran (= highly experienced) dive guides, as specialists of the local area, and also for dive shops who have established themselves as a local authority over time (such operations are called shinise , an important concept extending way beyond the diving industry).
It is a form of official recognition for guides to be employed by well-established dive centres, as is working under / training with / learning from famous dive guides.
 

WTP's SORA magazine, Dive Guide Special Issue  features interview-profiles of renowned dive guides
Image source: WTP Official blog / personal archives

In a Japanese diving context as elsewhere, dive guides are expected to offer a good tour of local highlights, actively spotting marine life for the divers (often less inclined to try to find stuff on their own) but also to ID marine life in real time, as we will see, engaging in active, entertaining underwater communication by writing on a slate, and also to lead comprehensive log-book sessions after diving.

Dive professionals’ passion for diving also blends nicely with a sense of local pride, which is something that you’ll encounter quite frequently in Japan – people are proud of local specificities, whether natural or man-made, and keen to share them with visitors.

In this sense, we could say that Japanese dive centres and guides act as true ambassadors of the environment they operate in, and do their best to help visiting divers experience its uniqueness, often with a heart-warming passion and dedication rarely found elsewhere.

Customer service expectations are also generally quite high in the Japanese dive-industry.
Most dive operations will have some kind of dive blog, usually quite thorough and updated daily. And on the social side, operators and guides are generally excellent hosts, and customers are usually offered the chance to socialise later in the day or in the evening, over drinks and/dinner. 

A somewhat formalised “closing celebration”, known are uchi-age in Japanese, is also quite commonly offered to guests at the end of a diving session -especially multiple-day ones, and can be expected as a service from most dive operations.

One thing is certain: Japan has a great after-dive culture and despite minor challenges, the shared experience of diving in a Japanese context can serve as a gateway to a more intimate Japan than what most non-diving tourists typically encounter...
 

Charisma-guides

Ad for a trip led by Kaorita-san, famous "charisma guide", primarily based in the Maldives
Screenshot source: Divenavi Facebook post

In the Japanese context, experienced guides, who have been around for a long time or pioneered a diving area, are highly regarded and sought-after by guests, and sometimes referred to, in publications, as “charisma-guides”, in other words, acknowledged as charismatic figures of the diving industry.

This is somewhat unique. It’s not so much that there are no examples of charismatic dive guides in non-Japanese contexts – dive-guide legends such as Larry Smith immediately come to mind, as do other explorers turned trip leader or operator, divers who pioneered diving in new areas such as Burt Jones and Maurine Shimlock or Edi Frommenwiler, Max Ammer and many others, as do specialists/researchers offering trips or cruises dedicated to specific marine life (such as sharks, whales or manta rays…) 

Yet there’s something a little different about the Japanese concept, which is often blended with a strong sense of localism, and good-natured pride in being experts and ambassadors of a given area.

Another interesting aspect is the existence of an official Japanese dive guides’ association, the Guide-Kai or Japanese Scuba Diving Guide Association, which includes many of Japan’s charismatic and respected guides (most of them dive-shop owners themselves), which is not something common elsewhere.

Screenshot of the Dive Kai's English-language homepage - Screenshot source: Guide-kai.com

As an example of such cultural specificities, in Japan, you might encounter a Marine Diving magazine article where active dive guides are asked to recommend… other dive guides, while duly mentioning each guide’s “lineage” or filiation, i.e. who they worked for in the past.

Another curiosity would the existence of actual rankings of dive professionals.
Hierarchy does play an important role in Japanese society, and with it comes a certain fascination for rankings (Edo-period visitor guidebooks already ranked local highlights such as soba noodle shops and more..)

While this is something of a commercial gimmick (also found in non-Japanese publications such as PADI’s Undersea Journal’s, or Scuba Diving Magazine's survey-based rankings of diving areas and operators), in Japanese diving publications, rankings extend to slightly more unusual categories, such as:
most popular dive guides in Japan
most popular Japanese dive guides working abroad
most popular diving instructors

Screenshot of the Marine Diving 2021 Awards page, Dive Guide category winner for the Okinawa area
Screenshot source: Marine Diving 2021 Awards
 

Photography specialists

Another important aspect of Japanese-style guiding is underwater photography. 
Japan is still one of the world’s photography hotspot for both topside and underwater images, and the vast majority of cameras to this day - including the world-leading brands such as Canon, Nikon, Sony, Panasonic or Olympus / OM Digital Solutions - are still produced by Japanese makers.

Underwater, Japan is also well placed on the light and strobe market, with brands like Inon, Sea&Sea as well as RGBlue or Fix, and the ubiquitous Olympus TG series has successfully led a small revolution in making macro photography much more accessible.
 

Underwater photo guide services offered by Okunoerabujima's MugaMuga dive center 
Screenshot source: Mugamuga.com

Many Japanese dive guides are also underwater photography specialists.
Some are photographers themselves, and guide photographers according to their specific interests and local highlights, while providing technical tips in informal to informal master-classes.

Others guides are simply highly experienced with working with photographers, and can of course efficiently spot subjects, but also offer high-level tips for shooting specific animals, covering behavioural aspects and positioning, timing, water conditions and ambient light, and more...

The level of photography-specific service offered by guides is rarely found outside specialist macro destinations, where dedicated macro spotter  / photographer guides can spot critters but also assist with shooting (snooting for instance), or are actual acclaimed photographers themselves.

Underwater slate use in guiding

Dive guide, ready to dive -  Image source: Diver-online

Underwater writing slates are nothing new, yet if there’s one aspect that really stands out and symbolizes the so-called Japanese-style of guiding, it would be the rather systematic use of underwater slates by dive guides, which has developed into what could now be called a distinct cultural tradition.

Since the beginning of scuba diving, while the main underwater communication method remains basic and conventional diving hand-signals, slates / written communication has been around as an alternative means of communication, as an easy and rather fool-proof way of efficiently conveying more complex information underwater (with the notable exception of audio coms systems used in commercial diving).

Diving instructors will often have agency-provided / self-designed training slates, used as memory backups and to keep track of progress for courses, and underwater slates are also commonly used while conducting research in scientific diving.

Guides and fun-divers will often have a small pencil or magnetic slate tucked inside a pocket somewhere, just in case something happens that calls for clear and rapid communication of more complex and unplanned-for ideas.

Technical divers, while making use of an extended range of signals (including touch codes for instance) often rely on some form of written medium as a complement to advanced signalling and also as personal memos – having clear, visual check-lists, dive plans, run-times, gas switches is a basic requirement, which makes sense, given the level of exposure, conditions and complexity of the dives undertaken.
 

Underwater slate use in action -  Image source: Marineartcenter
 

Something else… the big slate

Japanese dive guides almost exclusively use magnetic slates, which can be erased in one swipe, and allowing for more fluid communication, and outside areas with strong currents or rougher conditions, the slates used are generally quite large, since the guide will be showing his writing to all of the divers she or he is guiding.

The most commonly used slates are large plastic contraptions, designed for children use, the most commonly used model being a large magnetic slate called Sensei by the toy-brand Toby, very sturdy and with an easily recognisable design. Recently smaller magnetic slate models, including purposely designed slates, are also gaining in popularity.
 

The Toby Sensei slate, very commonly used by guides underwater
Image sources: diveoneroad.com  / oceana.ne.jp / facebook.com/sora-iro / sotoasobi.net / oceana.ne.jp
 

In the average recreational diving context, outside of teaching scenarios, slate use will usually be limited to “emergency” communications, as a back-up or extension of hand signals, which are accepted as the primary mode of underwater communication.

However, this is often a little different in Japanese guided diving, where underwater slate mirrors a specific approach to guiding and underwater interactions.

Broadly speaking, the dive-guide is expected to communicate actively during the dive, in writing, with the divers she or he is guiding.

From personal discussions with operators and guides themselves, this is justified by safety considerations (which is debatable), but also primarily as a form of underwater customer service.

Active underwater slate use / communication by the dive guide is perceived as offering guided divers a superior - and now standard and expected - experience during the dive.

In a guided situation, hand-signal use seems somewhat less common in Japan than elsewhere, where written communication is now becoming the norm.

All divers learn fundamental diving hand signals during their training, but Japanese guides will often – if conditions allow - write things down, including full sentences covering basic dive leading indications in situations where non-Japanese guides would use scuba diving’s universal hand signals.

It is not rare to see a guide write indications that would normally be conveyed by a couple of hands signals, sometimes complete sentences such as “Let’s end the dive now, and go to the safety stop”, which will be written on the slate, and shown to all the divers in the group.

Leading the dive... in writing

The other main purpose of the big slate use is (Japanese-style) fish identification.

This is not only found in Japan – Indonesian guides in Lembeh and elsewhere also carry slates, and can write, for reference, both the common and Latin scientific name of the rare critters have spotted while photographers shoot away – an approach this Lembeh Resort post explains quite well.

And let’s face it, slates are indeed great for fish ID, as there’s only so much you can do with fish hand-signals, which are not standardized and mostly suitable for basic fish ID’ing / communication purposes, and slates allow guides to share a lot more information.

Systematic underwater slate use is not only the norm when guiding in Japan, it is also a necessity, because Japanese divers, on the other hand, rarely learn fish ID sign – and why should they, since guides use magnetic slates to give the Japanese name (which, by convention, is always written in katakana script) of species encountered.

“It’s going to lay its eggs in the cracks of the rock...“ - Image source: personal archives

And beyond actual dive leading indications and fish ID, there’s all the rest…
It’s undeniable, having a slate underwater opens up a whole world of underwater possibilities…
Small jokes, comments or even anecdotes, and everything a guide is now able to tell guests underwater but couldn’t be without a slate (which does beg the question, should you?)…

Over the years, we’ve seen pretty amazing things written on our Japanese colleagues’ slates, ranging from comment such as “this fish looks delicious!” , “the current is a little tiring, don’t you think?” “I’ve never seen so many here!” ,  "It’s super cute” or even “Manta poop. (Pink)” (which does make you smile when you happen upon this at 6 am, on a slate your boss left lying around…), along with riddles, advice on camera angles, comments... Some guides will even draw underwater!
 

As an example of underwater slate communication, the three slates above read:
"Super cute! Bluestriped fangblennies always have a smile on their face ^o^" - Source: oceana.ne.jp
"Divers are being swept away by the current" - Image source: personal archives
"It’s super warm – it’s like being in a bath!" - Image source: sunslog.blog42.fc2.com

Thanks to the magnetic slate, Japanese dive guides can communicate (even politely) and share knowledge directly underwater rather than after surfacing, and also generally entertain guests underwater.
This type underwater customer service is becoming part of the job, along with safety and orientation.

On a slightly critical note, one could say that this type of approach, when pushed to the extreme, profoundly changes the approach to a dive, which tends to become a more passive experience, and reinforces reliance on the dive guide, which is not ideal for safety.

Overall, underwater slate-use is all about communication, and in Japan, this takes place at different level from what is encountered and expected in guided diving elsewhere in the world.

This decision to favour the use of underwater slates (which mostly came from Honshu’s Izu Peninsula, an area combining forgiving diving conditions and a wide range of endemic or rare critters) and the type of extended verbal underwater communication they allow is probably the key factors behind the development of a so-called Japanese-style of guiding and, ultimately, of diving.

Unfortunately, non-Japanese-speaking guests will rarely get to experience the big slate use as such, unless diving in a mixed Japanese/non-Japanese group led by a Japanese guide.

This is not seen as useful or necessary for non-Japanese style divers (which are happy with seeing octopus and moray eels, as a slightly contemptuous - yet often repeated and sometimes printed - comment goes...).

And interestingly enough, many Japanese guides seem quite happy to do away with the big slate whenever they’re not guiding Japanese divers…
 

“Manta poop (pink)“ - Image source: personal archives
 

I’ve been to Bonaire 7 times over the years and logged 235 dives there. I like it for the shore diving and, generally, for the macro critters. I love the laid-back feeling.

But, for me, the reefs are not what they were and marine life now seems a bit limited: reef fish, shrimp and arrowcrabs. Slight exaggeration I know but no big things (yeah, the odd tarpon, some turtles) and even the macro life now seems to take some hunting. Very little, if any, schooling fish.

Yes, I know it usually wins all the prizes for diving in the Caribbean. But, frankly, I had to admit to myself I was getting bored diving there. 

By the happiest turn of fates my partner, bless her, was seconded to a job in Sint Maarten and I felt obliged to join her (NB: British irony). Almost three very happy years followed and 436 dives.

Sint Maarten is another of those curious Dutch outposts in the Caribbean. Although not part of the Netherlands (Bonaire is actually a city in the Netherlands), Sint Maarten (or SXM as it’s known) is in the Kingdom of the Netherlands so similar in status to, say, Jersey or Bermuda. It has a significant international airport and is a stone’s throw from the British hold-out of Anguilla. I read that Anguilla to Sint Maarten is the world’s shortest international flight.

In addition, the northern part of the island is actually an area of metropolitan France and as such part of the EU. One island, two cultures. Best part: two cuisines – the Dutch part slightly more American plus Heineken; the French part, oh la la, French. Think top quality pain au raisin or croissant for breakfast, patisserie for afternoon tea. Excellent inexpensive wines, good restaurants, great supermarkets and entrecôte……  

Unlike Bonaire, Sint Maarten is hardly known as a dive destination. But if you are into macro, there are all sorts of shrimps; you can trip over arrowcrabs; lots of reef sharks, turtles, gobies looking out of crevices, loads of morays, SCHOOLS and I mean serious schools of grunts, blackbar soldierfish, snappers…. I was teaching the West Atlantic REEF fish identification course there and the place is a Caribbean fish spotter’s dream. Plenty of wrecks covered in marine life and schools of fish….. and some intriguing coral mazes which are playgrounds for divers.

Yes, you must boat dive which means, probably, a max of 3 dives a day. Shore diving is, sadly, minimal verging on the negligible. 

If I don’t get bored after 436 dives this place has to be good, right?

So if you dive in the Caribbean and you fancy a change from Bonaire, check out Sint Maarten. Pack your camera, charge your GoPro, pack your snoot. You won’t regret it. 

I can recommend diving with Ocean Explorers (info@stmaartendiving.com) run by a super Brazilian couple, Lu and Jef. Jef knows the reefs there like the back of his hand and he and Lu have been running Ocean Explorers for decades.

By: Martin Pachmann

The Egyptian coral reefs near Port Ghalib were my first contact with the beautiful underwater world with mask and snorkel. And because I have always loved taking photos, I wanted to capture this world on sensor and memory card and be able to look at it again at home. After a mobile phone case, actioncam and a crappy plastic housing with an acrylic dome (awful!), I wanted something "Now it's all the photographer's fault". Thanks to you forum members , (!) I ended up with Sony A7 IV, Nauticam and WACP-C and I'm totally thrilled. 

My favorite dealer here in Germany offered a photo workshop in Marsa Sharga in one of his mailings, not far from our first underwater experiences. "Unlimited diving" on the house reef and learning how to use the camera better - wouldn't that be great? When it came to buying the underwater equipment, the contact with Roland from PanOcean was pleasantly calm and competent, so off we went. We were a little worried that this might drift off into technical discussions about diving and camera equipment rather than help in taking better pictures. But you can't judge what you haven't tried.

Unfortunately, the nearest airport to Marsa Shagra, Marsa Alam, has hardly had any flights since the coronavirus pandemic, so we flew to Hurghada and from there took the bus to Marsa Shagra. The airport has the charm of a railway station waiting hall, and there is nowhere to buy food or drink after customs control. During the unfortunately somewhat longer wait for the bus, we Actually found something - the kiosk where the Egyptian bus and taxi drivers cater for themselves. Not aimed at tourists, but cheap and tasty. The bus journey was slightly adventurous due to darkness and wrong-way drivers - which is there probably not unusual. 

Marsa Shagra itself was originally a very barren tent city for divers only, but has been built up into an Eco resort in recent years and offers good comfort and very good food. You can choose between spacious bungalows and sparse tents. A special feature is that after a short check dive at the diving centre, you can put together your own or rented equipment at any time you wish and then explore the reef either from the beach or from the Zodiac (runs at any time as required) by yourself. Of course, the usual excursions such as Elphinstone are also offered for a fee. 

The workshop was very enjoyable. During the day either in the group or individually but always with the camera in the water, in the evening a few hours sitting together and discussing theoretical basics and doing practical analysis of pictures taken during the day. Of course, we always sat together at mealtimes and talked about diving experiences and photographic techniques in a relaxed and good-humoured atmosphere. Roland helped us with the equipment and gave us tips. I finally tried out macro and the EMWL with 160° optics live on the A7IV - thanks again for the uncomplicated opportunity! "Take this and try it out" - just like that. Great! (but I won’t buy one – too big and looks somewhat “interesting when holding the camera between the legs on the Zodiac – whoever has seen this knows what I mean) 

In addition to the usual reef inhabitants such as turtles and normal life, the pleasantly healthy reef also offered us a large school of barracuda directly under the jetty: 

nullAnd a few schools of mackerel, which of course make excellent photo subjects. It's absurdly difficult to photograph them from the front and up close. A big compliment to Alex Mustard - his picture is really unbelievably good, even if he didn't achieve perfect symmetry. 

At the workshop, I learnt really a lot in that short time. Two of the most important messages are: "Include the water surface in the pictures, sun rays due to backscatter and natural light are your friends" 

and: "Don't go too low, the most beautiful motifs are often close to the surface." 

But of course, I was also lucky enough to have my conscripted model with me. Thank you me beloved wife! Again, the best pictures were taken while freediving, but then you have to be able to hold your breath a little.

However, admittedly, there are also motifs deeper that would not have been possible without scuba diving. We were particularly taken with an octopus that had made itself comfortable on a coral block in an unusual manner.

All in all: unreservedly recommendable. To quote Roland once again: "I was particularly pleased that at the beginning we only talked shop about diving, but as the workshop progressed, photography moved more and more into the foreground of the discussions". 

Travel report August 2023

By : Martin Paceman

Three years ago, we learnt to dive for the first time at Reethi Beach Resort https://www.reethibeach.com/ in the BAA Atoll in the Maldives. The incredibly relaxed diving school Ocean Fanatics offered a very affordable taster dive in the usual manner, which opened up a world to us that we had never known before. 

From Reethi Beach, the Ocean Fanatics also offer snorkeling trips to Hanifaru Bay, which is known for the accumulation of manta rays during the rainy season. The excursions are not quite cheap (160.- + various taxes per person) as is typical for a resort, but the incredible experience made us want to repeat the experience even more intensively. 

As we had already had good experiences of staying on a local island in the Maldives, we chose Dharavandhoo - an island established as a relay station with a small airport, about 1 kilometer from Hanifaru Bay. There is a selection of hotels and guesthouses for almost every budget and several diving schools, the best known being Liquid Salt Divers https://www.liquidsaltdivers.com and Dharavandhoo Divers http://www.dharavandhoodiving.com/ . We opted for Kiha Beach Hotel and Dharavandhoo Divers. Overnight stay with breakfast in the region of 150.- for 2 people, dinner in the restaurants approx. 15-20.- for 2 people. 

The island itself shows the real life on the Maldives, not the artificial world of the resorts. Unfortunately, there is a lot of plastic waste, even though the beaches are often cleaned. The locals are incredibly friendly, unobtrusive and helpful. 

Attention: There is no alcohol, in any form. 

The house reef is rather sobering. The island has been well fortified because of the airport and is surrounded by breakwaters made of large, imported stones. Turtles, moray eels and rays as well as the usual reef inhabitants can still be found. There is no point in scuba diving on the house reef. 

You can only snorkel with the manta rays in Hanifaru Bay. There is always an alternating day for the resorts and for the "locals" - monitored by a ranger, who also makes sure that the 45 minutes in the water are not significantly exceeded. The rangers always report when the manta rays swim into the bay and how many there are - they regularly fly the drone. 

When the resort guests are there, they splash and splash about in the water, which the manta rays don't like so much and sometimes leave again. On other days, guests who can swim and even freedive predominate. The best time is June to September, and the plankton is thickest at full moon, when up to 250 manta rays come into the small underwater bay (approx. 50 x 200 metres). We travelled with the hotel's boat, at a very moderate cost compared to the resorts (most recently 65.-/person). 

The manta rays themselves are an experience you will never forget. If you wait calmly for the majestic giants to make their move and don't swim after them, you will at best be perceived as a piece of driftwood - you have to tighten your legs to avoid being brushed against. Visibility in the water is limited due to the plankton, but when a group of 10-15 manta rays suddenly appears out of nowhere, it is a magical experience. 

In order to catch as much as possible of the densest and presumably tastiest plankton, the giants do loops, swim like a whirlpool and do various laps. 

But divers don't miss out either - the diving schools usually do two dives before heading to Hanifaru Bay and ending the day with the manta rays. The usual coral reefs can be found here, although there is almost always a current. Sharks are more common in other areas, but there are always reef sharks here too. 

In August this year, a large population of whale sharks passed by for the first time - they were regular guests until well into October. We had three encounters during our 14-day stay: Twice in Hanifaru Bay, where they shared the plankton with the manta rays. 

Once, however, a smaller specimen swam along a nearby reef edge and we were allowed to accompany it for a quarter of an hour. A gigantic experience.  

Conclusion: If you get involved with the local islands and don't set your standards too high, you can have a wonderful holiday at an acceptable cost and see more manta rays than you could ever believe. Pack your longblades!