bvbellomo

Cable issue confirmed! I borrowed a working cable, and it worked. How I had 2 cables fail at the same time, I don't know. A friend on the same trip believes 1 cable is visibly broken and fixable, so we will try fixing it, but the other looks brand new.

I have many dive trips using these cables with these strobes, just not with this camera body. What do you mean by 'manual '? The inon has a manual mode which is similar to full output but you can reduce the brightness manually. I have tried both 0 and 1. I have tested using both cables.

With the dial set to 0, I am able to see a bright red light by looking into the end of the cable when I take a picture. With 1, the light is not as bright. The hotel remote reliably fires the strobe directly, but not through the optical cable. I have 2 strobes and cables that worked together in the past. I know this isn't just the wrong type of cable, and it is unlikely the cable is damaged.

I did get it to turn with the appropriate screwdriver but scratched it badly with trial and error. I haven't tried it yet in the new position. The Leds are firing, but maybe not enough to fire the strobes. I thought I had this working 6 months ago. I don't really remember. I'm so crazy busy I almost canceled my trip. I didn't even have time to pack everything, just threw stuff in a suitcase and went.

How are you supposed to turn the rotary dial? At home, I used a jewelers screwdriver, but didn't bring it on the trip.

Thanks everyone! I wish I found this sooner so I had time to troubleshoot. The remote control trick works on the strobe itself - not every time, I think I needed to position the remote and try a button a dozen times. I couldn't get it to work with the cable, but am guessing this is an alignment issue and not a cable issue. I did find my 11071-HSS knob set to 7 and not 6. Scuba divers over age 30 need larger numbers. Setting it to 6 did not help. I noticed an Amber light on the Nauticam body near the power button before I take a picture. This is labeled 'AF illuminator/Visible light sensor' in the Nauticam manual. I did buy new batteries but won't have time to change them until my flight arrives.

I leave tomorrow morning on my first real trip with an AV7RV, but can't get the strobes to fire. My camera has manual shutter, silent off, wireless flash on, flash mode fill, tried various shutter speeds between 1/50 and 1/150. I get a small red light from my 11071-HSS, but my strobes don't fire. I've tried both TTL and Manual on the strobes. I've used both strobes with the same cords on another camera.

We only have 1 corner, from shokwaav, and I don't even know how much is out of focus from being in front of the focal plane vs being in a corner. I'd consider this acceptable for almost any picture. He did use a WWL though.

The 14mm GM doesn't resolve to the complete 61MP on land, although it is closer than the Zeiss gets to 24MP. Going from an effective 15MP image to an effective 50MP image is a huge upgrade for A2 prints. A better lens/port combo is something I've considered. I haven't looked specifically at that Tokina, but a budget zoom lens with an adapter is probably not a huge upgrade over an outdated but nice prime. It is also a fisheye, which most people prefer but I do not. That was one thing I was hoping for on this thread - if people post images I could see how well lenses perform without buying them and taking them to a pool or quarry. I haven't even tried the 14mm GM on the a6300 yet, but after my last trip, I did some research and it seems to be the 'go to' wide lens for higher end Sony underwater setups. Assuming I upgrade to full frame at some point, it makes more financial sense to do it sooner, rather than invest more in my current setup. I wanted full frame since before I bought the a6300. Everyone on the Internet advised me against full frame. I have no idea how much harder your setup is to use than mine, or why it would be, but you are getting nice results. If your depth-of-field is less than mine, it isn't by much. There are other 'nice-to-have' features going to the A7RV or even A7Cr. I could zoom electronically, and the menus and ergonomics are nicer. Even with the housing, muscle memory for 1 camera is much easier. My underwater setup gets larger and heavier, but if I take equipment for both above and below water, my total setup might be lighter and smaller.

Thank you for posting this. This is what I was looking for. This is much better depth-of-field than I expected at F9 on full frame. Can you post a crop of the left hand side, and further up, so I can see it better? Do you have more images like this?

There is no contradiction. Let's put some fictional numbers on things. Let's assign the Zeiss lens a sharpness of 3, the a6300 sensor a sharpness of 4, the 14mm GM a sharpness of 7 and the a7RV sensor a sharpness of 10. Right now, I am using the Zeiss on the a6300, so I am at 3 since I am limited by the lens and can't take full advantage of the sensor. If I upgrade lenses, either using the 14mm GM or buying something new, it can only get me to a 4 because I will hit the limit of my sensor. If I upgrade housings, it takes me to a 7. I've gone through the math. For many lenses, the lens is physically too far forward, which can be solved by adding an extension. In this case, the lens is actually too far back. If there is a way to move the dome closer to the camera body, it is going to be very expensive. I can calculate the exact mathematical ideal for the where the dome should be, but I cannot calculate how much of an improvement there will be in the image. Based on what I know about the lens above water, I don't think I'd see a huge improvement if I could fix this.

This Zeiss on the A7RV would not be sharper than using it on the a6300. The limit is the lens, not the sensor. That isn't relevant to any decision to upgrade, as I would be using a different lens, such as the 14mm GM, on the A7RV. I planned to test the 14mm GM on the a6300 in a pool. I'd be at 21mm equivalent, which is narrower than I want for a full reef shot. It is minimal gain to reach the limit of the sensor. If I need money for a port extension or similar from Nauticam, it is an expensive upgrade. At f/20, I am probably seeing diffraction, but the image is probably not out of focus as I have a larger depth of field. The reason I posted it is I feel this is the limit of the system at F/20 if you ignore the blown out highlights. I planned to post a similar image at F8 for comparison, which is a little sharper, or other apertures. With the direction this thread went, I don't see the point.

I thought it was clear from the context of my post, but I was looking for images larger than 6000x4000.

Apparently this forum won't let me edit, so I apologize for double-posting my reply both above and below the post I replied to.

I asked for examples of other people’s work with higher resolution cameras. I only provided my own images as examples of what I want people to upload. I am not opposed to starting a different thread to discuss post processing raw files, but there are a lot of similar threads already. There are no threads with high resolution images. If I ever take another picture underwater, outside of a test environment like a swimming pool, it will cost me a lot of money. Scuba diving is expensive even without photography. I am using a Nauticam N120 180mm Optical-glass wide-angle dome port. I have 2 Inon 330 strobes. I may use 1, 2 or no strobes. If it is possible with to get a lot more out of a 6300, I was hoping someone who did it would post an image. I asked for examples of other people’s work with higher resolution cameras. I only provided my own images as examples of what I want people to upload. I am not opposed to starting a different thread to discuss post processing raw files, but there are a lot of similar threads already. There are no threads with high resolution images. If I ever take another picture underwater, outside of a test environment like a swimming pool, it will cost me a lot of money. Scuba diving is expensive even without photography. I am using a Nauticam N120 180mm Optical-glass wide-angle dome port. I have 2 Inon 330 strobes. I may use 1, 2 or no strobes. If it is possible with to get a lot more out of a 6300, I was hoping someone who did it would post an image. I appreciate you posting a link to the image, but I don't have permission. I did request it.