TURTLE-Balage

Ohh sorry... Yes its a compact system. All pins are soldered to the pcb. I hope the new one will works flawlessly. 🙂

I’m sorry that the trigger broke. It’s likely that the spring behind the pin has snapped. If you send it back, we can repair it. The differences between the triggers can be read on the website. But briefly: The only difference between the Mobie and the SMART 1 is the connector that leads to the cable. The Smart 2, however, is designed for the newer high-end cameras.

HI. I bought a new 21700 li-ion accus from panasonic which is 5000mAh also but the current is 35 A maximum and the strobe works with them. So the conclusion is the mimimum current is 20A.

HI... I bought an HF-1, but it doesn't turn on. When I turn the rotary switch, the control LED flashes blue for a moment and then goes out. It doesn't light up green. Has anyone encountered this problem? The accus: 21700type 3,6 V 5000mAh.

It seems that some dirt might have gotten between the flash pin and the internal panel. Rotate the pin with pliers, and it might work.

HI. Sorry,, the last month was extremly busy. So this black line a the top is sync problem. I never seen same problem with popular strobes, but the SUPE-D was never tested by me. The MF-2 works perfect. In the past few weeks, I have been testing a few new flashes on the market, and I noticed that manufacturers do not fully test their products. The sync of the Sony trigger flash comes from the camera and is transmitted to the trigger LEDs within 1-2 microseconds, which should not cause such a problem. So, I don't think this is a trigger issue. However, I am happy to take some shots with an oscilloscope and a light transducer to measure the time between the trigger signal and the flash of any underwater flash. 🙂 Just for sample. This is a preflash power from Z330.

I’ve been thinking a lot about whether to write anything here, because it could potentially start an avalanche. But I must do it because the picture is somewhat distorted if only those who have had problems with the product write on the forums. The product problems do not reach 1% annually. But we try to resolve such cases as quickly as possible. That’s what matters to us! A satisfied customer spreads the good word about the product, and this can only be achieved with a good product. We regret those customers who have experienced this. I know what it’s like when a system stops working on a trip since I also take photographs. 🙂 I have noted these cases, and we learn from them! It would be nice if other manufacturers were as communicative as we are! 😉 Wishing you nice dives! Balazs

One of Our customer thinking about Our nikon trigger and he bought a nice isotta housing. Unfortunately we had not contact with Isotta so we could not installed the leds those housings. We had not isotta specification and we could not make the holders for Our trigger. He made an STL file for the housing and sent it to Us. We modified a bit and now possible to install the 5mm replace leds in this small holder. I would like to share this holder STL file. Maybe this will solve the problem for someone. 🙂 Here is the link: isotta-holder_trt.zip

One cannot say much good about Sea and Sea flashes. Unfortunately, there are many issues with them. I know they are relatively cheap, but the electronics inside are quite poor. I have a few pieces of them in my drawer at home, unfortunately, half of them are faulty. Either the tube bursts, or they simply don't work. 😞

This is the latest MAC OS. Many times, we can't keep up as new operating systems are released so frequently. The MAC world is not easy. All times we need to upload the software when we update a small things in the software and they are check everything in the sourcecode. If we got a mail we try to answer. 🙂 Have a nice dives with TURTLE. 🙂

TTL for everyone! 🙂

Hi. I just joined this community today. So the difference between the 2 triggers basically the design and the battery. Pavel use 2 pc CR2032 as I know. We use 100mAh lipo cell in the trigger which has a USB2.0 B connector for charging and setup the trigger. When we develope the trigger first version we thought the first trigger have to work with several many different housing and we choose a compact version. There are a small misunderstandig with the switch in the trigger. The customer don't need to turn off the small switch off the trigger. If you remove from the hotshoe that or switch off the camera , the trigger should be go to sleep mode and in this case there is no consuption. :) I usually charge the trigger after 2 or 3 days it is depend on the number of dives. I hope i could help in the choice. 🙂

Hi , I'm the owner of the TRT-Electronics and we are the manufacturer of TURTLE triggers. I guess the WaterPixels could be a good channel to contact the customers who need some help to get the correct picture from Our products and the TTL underwater photography. I have been taking photos underwater since the 2000s and I think my knowledge sharing could help to you in several topics. Of course there is a limit (Please don't ask me about details of TTL protocol!)) :))) So i can't answer all questions.... But i try to do it.