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TimG

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Posts posted by TimG

    1 minute ago, dimsak said:

    Downside is that I would need to make my choice before the dive. Will probably hold o that one, but I ll keep it in mind for sure if I find myself wanting more reach!

    That's always the case no matter how many or what lenses you have. It goes to the heart of what I often bang on about. You have to decide before you dive what you want to photograph and go equipped for that. That, to me, is where it does wrong with a mid-zoom: neither here nor there. It's not just the equipment but the mindset too. Go set up for macro and you hunt for macro subjects and their frames. Fisheye and you're hunting wide-angle, looking for sunballs etc; mid-zoom - errrr, heaven knows - bit of this, bit of that, a lot of nothing......

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    Hey dimsak

    I'm sure you'll get lots of great advice on the qualities of each. I'd like to give you a different perspective:

    My experience has been that a fisheye and a macro are the essentials - anything else is marginal and I'm not convinced by the need for something mid-range.

    The fisheye covers the vast majority of wide-angle stuff unless you are determined to use a rectilinear lens. Then a macro lens covers the majority of the fish portrait and macro type images. You have the excellent Sigma 15mm; and are planning the macro.

    The only potential use for a mid-range, for me, is maybe pelagic that won't come close. But even then, really marginal use

    I've found it better to plan the dive setup for macro or fisheye and then search for subjects that fit that criteria. Mid-range is very much neither here nor there.

    My advice: save your cash.

    • Like 3

    I know we've been over the ground before, but I find the Retras with, as necessary, the Booster work really well with AAs.

    Taking 32 AA batteries is no big deal when you consider just how much gear we are lugging around. And, worst comes to the worst with chargers, AAs are so easily obtainable.

    1 hour ago, FrancoisC said:

    Okar response is "II sticks with AA NiMh because they’re travel-safe, everywhere to find, and rock-solid reliable".

    I agree with Oskar.

    • Like 1

    No, you're not missing anything. The USD price is the tax-free price that Retra charge. On the website it explains that import taxes and the like are not included in the price; and that for EU sales, VAT is added at checkout.

    God knows what the US duties/taxes might be. That seems to vary by the day. Or hour. I guess that will be charged by the US-based handling agent for the shipper: DHL usually for Retra, I think

    • Haha 1
    • Sad 1

    We seem to be having something of a Spam Attack going on at the moment. Many thanks to members who alerted us to the first intruders.

    Just to let you know that the team are monitoring the situation and are whacking moles as necessary.

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    Yeah, as Bill suggests, a lot depends on where you live. Home insurance can work and, for the UK, there is a specialist dive gear insurer - but rates are pricey.

    I'd suggest talking to your home insurer and get a clear steer on whether dive gear - and what elements of it - would be covered by a home policy or by an add-on policy or addition.

    • Like 1

    Hi canislupus

    I use a Subal 45-degree viewfinder on a Subal housing with a D500.

    On that system there is a threaded ring which screws on to the viewfinder when it’s pushed into the housing. A pair of o-rings on the part of the viewfinder that pushes through the housing provides the water seal. It’s very simple but effective.

    I do remove the viewfinder for traveling as it’s otherwise an awkward shape in my Pelican case. It’s a 2-3 minute job to install or remove it using a very simple tool. Once you’ve done it once or twice, I’m sure you’ll be comfortable with the process.

    • Like 1
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    11 minutes ago, Floris Bennema said:

    Like adjusting aperture 4 clicks down to get a better DOF and 'automaticly' the strobe 4 clicks up. Usefull if you spend a longer time on one subject.

    I can't say I've heard of a camera adjusting aperture in coordination with a flash EV setting other than, I guess if you use TTL and Auto settings. But would you really want to do that?

    I would have thought it simpler and more controllable just to use the aperture setting as part of the Manual exposure to mange DOF and then the strobe setting dial to increase or decrease power.

    • Like 1

    1 hour ago, Davide DB said:

    IMHO, I think it's more likely a batch of defective batteries. If I were you, I'd try to contact Eneloop/Panasonic and report what happened.

    Yeah, that was my thought too.

    For sale:

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    2x Ultralight clamps - €30/£26 each

    Price Includes shipping in the EU or UK

    Both arms and both clamps = €170/£145 including shipping in the EU or UK.

    For a UK buyer, I can arrange to mail the goods in the UK with a slight delay.

    In perfect condition. Rarely used.

    You only need to buy arm and clamps system once. By the best! ULCS.

    IMG_2797.jpeg

    Interesting images in your tests, Hugues.

    I can only say I’ve never noticed any reflections or anomalies underwater that have had a noticeable impact on images. Some images of course are rubbish but that’s more likely my fault rather than the gear. I’d suggest that the underwater environment is much more almost forgiving in the way potential anomalies appear. There are so many other issues which impact that they rarely (never?) show up in the final image.

    I wouldn’t worry too much over what your tests are showing. (But maybe that’s just my suck it and see approach!) Get the snoot in the water, shoot some images and see what you’ve got.

    The only “technical” issue I’ve experienced is that of aligning the focus light with snoot output. That was very difficult with the Inons but not an issue with the Retras. After that I’ve always felt anything else was down to the guy pressing the shutter. 😉

    • Thanks 1

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