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More Ikelite D70 Questions

Started by FishHunter ·

  • 9Posts
  • 9Replies

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More Ikelite D70 Questions

9 posts
  1. So I've finally made up my mind to purchase an Ikelite iTTL housing for my Nikon D70. My two lenses are the 60mm nikkor micro and the 12-24 nikkor wide.

    My questions are: Consider I am a complete beginner when answering therefore I am seeking the easiest system to start off with.

     

    With regards to the 60mm flat port, should I opt for the port with manual zoom gear? Would this prevent me from using the AF setting if I wanted to?

     

    Considering the 12-24, is there a significant difference between the 6" dome port and the 8" dome port, and is it worth spending the extra?

    I have also noticed that the 60mm can be used with the 6" and 8" dome port. Is this recommended or is it best practice to stick with a flat port?

     

    Now for the strobe options. Which is preferable considering the two lenses I will be using, two DS125's with one connected iTTL and the second with a slave sensor or both strobes connected via a dual sync cable?

     

    Finally when travelling with all this gear, what size Pelican or other travel case would be needed to store housing, strobes, arms, chargers, dome ports, etc?

    The camera itself and lenses will be travelling with me in a Lowepro rucksack.

     

    Of course this is a lot of money and not something you want to be making mistakes with when buying your initial kit so Im hoping you guys, who have been so helpful in the past, can point me in the right direction.

  2. Hey Fish Hunter,

     

    Congrats on your decision! As I just purchased this system myself I can make a few comments.

     

    You should be able to get away with just getting the standard port for the 60mm. Autofocus will work fine as long as you spend the extra and get yourself a good focus light. On my first trip I used the 60mm exclusively and compared 2 different focus lights, dual Q40s and a fix light. There is no comparison, the fix light although expensive will make you life a lot easier. Especially if you are completely new to u/w shooting or in dark conditions. Not sure where you are located or do most of your diving.

     

    I am using a dual synch cord and believe that will be your best option. You should get a back up single ttl synch cord in case you lose a strobe or whatever.

     

    I have yet to shoot w/a so I can't comment on that but will be purchasing the 8" dome shortly.

     

    As I do not trust the airlines. All of my stuff including housing and strobes get packed in a Lowepro Computrekker plus. It is heavy but at least it is with me and makes it to my destination.

     

    Hope this helps,

    Jamie

  3. Hi Jamie,

    I have used an MX10 before and am quite familiar with video, just not a DSLR.

    My diving is mainly in Thailand and Egypt at the moment, I have dived around the UK but would certainly not entertain it again! Too dark and cold!

    Great suggestion to get a backup single sync cord, I had never thought of that.

    You say you use a fix light. If your using 2x DS125's, would the modelling light not be sufficient to light your subjects?

    What I am very interested in is your use of a Computrekker Plus to carry all your kit! Im simply amazed it all fits in. Can you elaborate on how much and what kit you would squeeze into your Computrekker on a typical dive trip.

  4. With regards to the 60mm flat port, should I opt for the port with manual zoom gear? Would this prevent me from using the AF setting if I wanted to?

     

    I assume you mean focus gear. The 60mm doesn't zoom. No, this would not prevent you from using AF. It is my opinion that it is unnecessary to get manual focus version for the 60mm lens. AF has always worked fine with this lens.

     

    Considering the 12-24, is there a significant difference between the 6" dome port and the 8" dome port, and is it worth spending the extra?

     

    I haven't seen comparative results for this camera and this lens using both ports. You will likely see no difference in performance in the 16-24mm range, but will likely see far less edge distortion in the 12-16mm range. I cannot comment on the worth of the extra purchase. Some people will value any improvement, while others have been quite content with the standard Ikelite port.

     

    Now for the strobe options. Which is preferable considering the two lenses I will be using, two DS125's with one connected iTTL and the second with a slave sensor or both strobes connected via a dual sync cable?

     

    Always use a sych cord when you can. (I know some people will note some exceptions to this "guideline"). Get a dual cord. As suggested, get a single cord backup. This is how I traveled for years.

     

    inally when travelling with all this gear, what size Pelican or other travel case would be needed to store housing, strobes, arms, chargers, dome ports, etc?

    The camera itself and lenses will be travelling with me in a Lowepro rucksack.

     

    There are lots of threads on this topic. I'd point you to them, but that would take effort on my part and I am extremely lazy. My strategy is different from most others. I've abandoned all my hard cases, e.g. Pelicans. They are heavy, bulky and with foam in them, don't really hold that much. My single traveler stategy (without using the purse option) on airlines that allow one carry-on and one personal item would be a roller carry-on suit case that does not exceed the 45" limit imposed by most carriers. Skip the ones with lots of padding and external pockets. I wrap housing, strobes, ports, etc. and pack it full, assuming no weight restrictions. I would then recommend the Computrekker as my laptop bag. There is a monstrous Computrekker Plus version that is much bigger. The basic Computrekker is a mini-trekker with laptop compartment added. It is not huge and fits nicely under the seat in front of you.

     

    Options change depending on airline, destination and equipment taken. I've got all sorts of camera gear. I pick and choose what I take on each trip since I can't take it all. Then I pick the bags that work the best. My strategy: 1) Maximize internal cubic space, 2) Minimize likelihood of forced checking or separation from your carry-ons 3) If you can't carry it, don't take it and 4) If you must violate #3, pack in checked bags somthing that won't stop you from shooting, e.g. don't check sync cords, if you lose a checked bag or they get stolen, you can't use strobes, if you check a dome port and lose it, you still have the flat port with you.

  5. 1. You say you use a fix light. If your using 2x DS125's, would the modelling light not be sufficient to light your subjects?

     

    The modelling lights would be sufficient however, they will kill your batteries a lot quicker.

     

    2. What I am very interested in is your use of a Computrekker Plus to carry all your kit! Im simply amazed it all fits in. Can you elaborate on how much and what kit you would squeeze into your Computrekker on a typical dive trip.

     

    On my last trip which was my first with my new set up and Computrekker Plus I fit in everything I would need to at least shoot macro with my 60mm. That is body, all my lenses including 80-400VR, housing, strobes, tray, arms, cables and 60mm port. In a separate carry on, considered my personal item (reg bag) I carried my reg set, storage device (coolwalker), some power cables for camera, strobes, etc and magazines. As I said it is heavy and I didn't have a laptop yet. I figured it was close to 30lbs. I only carried my big lens due to the location we were going as I was to have great topside wildlife. I wouldn't normally carry it.

     

    I carried my other port for my 105mm in my checked luggage wrapped in clothing. I will do the same with my dome port unless the absence of the big lens allows room for another port.

     

    I will be packing again soon for another trip so I will try and remember to take pics of everything packed.

     

    Hope this helps.

    Jamie

  6. I carry everything on except some of the backup gear (second strobe charger, extra strobe batteries etc) when it comes to my camera. I'm just a little paranoid of San Juan baggage handling...

     

    Everything packed into a LowePro DryZone200 and a LowePro Pro Roller 1. (the camera body is installed in the housing when I go)

     

    D70s Body

    18-70mm Kit Lens

    60mm macro lens

    Sigma 15mm FE lens

    70-300mm lens

    Ikelite Housing

    2x DS-125

    3 ports ( 2 wide angle, 1 macro)

    Woody's diopter

    4, 8 inch Ultralight arms and clamps

    Dual Sync Cord

    Single Sync Cord

    3 extra Camera Batteries

    CompactDrive storage

    Tripod (strapped to the outside)

    Magic Filters (ok, they're paper thin :) )

    Extra O-Rings

    1 Ikelite Charger

    1 Nikon Charger

    Camera cleaning kit (usual stuff)

    BC Lanyard

     

    With that stuff in there, I've still got room for 2 Suunto cobra computers (with QD)

    and still have room to shove some small/flexible stuff inbetween. It's two full carry-ons, which you can get away with occationally if you tell them it's camera equipment, otherwise I hand the heavy one to my wife....

     

    This was the least amount of packaging I could figure out for all of the gear and still be considered carry-on, and not break my shoulder running through an airport. If I had to do it again, I'd have gone with 2 of the Pro Roller 1s. The DryZone was the first case I bought, thinking that waterproof stuff would be useful. It hasn't been, yet.

     

    Hope this helps,

    Joel

    post-1860-1130188365_thumb.jpg

  7. Excellent guys, thanks a lot, that's put my mind at rest and I don't have to worry about baggage handlers anymore. The jpg at the end was just what I was looking for so that I can judge relative size of equipment to carry case. Its a bit difficult at this stage, only owning a camera and a few lenses.

    :blink:

  8. I would suggest that a focus light is not essential with the 60mm. On my last trip I didn't use one at all and only found it limited me with the 105mm rather than the 60mm.

     

    For night dives I find the light from 1 Ds-125 perfectly acceptable for using as a primary light. If you've got 2 then charge them both and use 1 for each 1/2 of the dive. This still allows you plenty of scope for them to flash.

     

    Saying that I have bought a focus light to use with the 105mm as this does have a tendency to hunt particularly with low contrast subjects.

Keldan

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