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Report on my S2Pro & Ikelite housing

Started by margaret b ·

  • 8Posts
  • 8Replies

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Report on my S2Pro & Ikelite housing

8 posts
  1. I returned last month from a week in Grand Turk, and overall, I'm happy with my setup.

     

    To begin with though, I wasn't very happy with Ikelite, as it was a problem getting consistent and accurate information from them, and I was advised incorrectly a few times and at other times, was told there was no one around who could answer my questions. Initially, I explained I was using ultralite arms, and on my Sea&Sea, had little flat brackets that slid in and were tightened down to hold the arms secure. I wanted to know if I needed to purchase some extra part so I could connect these arms to the Ikelite. I was told I didn't. Well, after I got my housing, it was obvious I did need them, and was perturbed I ended up being charged and extra $40 in shipping to get them to me in time for my trip, when they could easily have been included with my housing. I did my research and that, along with misinformation about a port for my 105mm, left me feeling VERY cautious about Ikelite, this housing and any problems I may have. Because it's a new housing, the local dealers didn't have much, if any, information for me.

     

    I learned that for me, calling Ikelite was not a good way to get information. Sending an email, was the best way to get accurate information and I suggest that over a phone call. Now that I’m more familiar with the Ikelite company and particular issues I’ve had with them, I feel any future communication with them will be better because I’m more aware of what falls through he cracks… on their end and mine.

     

    I use a YS120 and SB105, and purchased a T connector (I was told ikelite no longer makes a T connector for these strobes) from a local company and everything tested out fine above water.

     

    LUCKILY, I was able to speak with James Wiseman the day I left for GT, and the info he passed on to me was invaluable.

     

    Ok, so the first dive, the T connector flooded. It felt a little loose when I connected it, so I disconnected it, double checked the connection and the O ring. Oh well... was it my error, or an inferior after market product, I don't know.

     

    UNFORTUNATELY, I did not bring a single strobe cable that would work with my Ike housing and either of my strobes, so I was out of luck with my photography, EXCEPT, I continued to brainstorm since I had several days of diving left.

     

    SO, this is when my happiness with the Ike housing really started to show. Initially, I tried some pics using the flash on the S2 with no strobe. That actually worked fine since I was shooting macro (60mm). HOWEVER, the port suggested to me by Ikelite is WAY long for the 60mm, and the bottom half of the flash was blocked by the black ring around the end of the port.

     

    The next thing that occured to me was to use the strobes in slave mode off of the S2 built in flash. I was able to take pics, but this still left me with no ttl. So, I set the YS120 on 1/2 and that is how I finished out the week. Some of the pics turned out pretty good, with a few I'm happy with.

    The images tended to be a bit under exposed, and this was hard to reckon with since the preview screen appeared to be lighter than the actual image taken. JW told me of the same experience and said there was a way to reset that, but I already had enough on my plate. I shot in manual mode, and the few times I went to aperature or shutter priority, the pics were way too dark. Not being able to use TTL was a sort of fun experiment and the flooding of my dual connector put me in a position to learn things I otherwise would not have learned.

     

    About the housing and...

    What I didn't like so much...

    The port suggested is unnecessarily long for the 60mm lens and was bothersome to me.

    No ability to use the 4 way adjustment button.

    No way to use the function buttons... I would have liked to switch to a diff resolution to get more pics at the end of my dives.

    The strobe arm 'locks' that fit down in the housing handles are secure enough they don't come out, but they don't lock down tight and I don’t particularly like the movement.

    I had a problem getting the ON-OFF switch to work consistently and I usually had to open the housing to turn the camera on or off.

     

    What I do like alot...

    No grease on the housing O rings! (thanks James W!)

    The clear housing allowed me to continue taking pics even though I flooded my cable... as well as giving me the ability to look for seeping water.

    If I were to let go of it in water, it will float.

    Easy to assemble, disassemble.

    The focus lever, which seemed very sensitive at first was easy to get used to and worked very well.

     

    Although the shutter and aperature control knobs sometimes required some 'fiddling' to get them working, they adjusted much more consistently than on my Sea&Sea, and I think with time and familiarity with the housing, that would improve.

     

    I’ve posted a few pics at http://www.mindspring.com/~zdbradley/. The Arrow blenny has been cropped, but other than that, I’ve done NO tweaking to any of the pics. I wanted to show how they actually came out of the camera, but realize some tweaking would be an improvement.

     

    It was an interesting trip, and I’m looking forward enough to using this housing that I’m planning to get going with cold water diving (Monterey Bay) so I can use it more often. I was so distracted on this last trip with this whole new setup and the flood thing, I couldn’t remember which, +1 or –1 would give me more exposure/light on my subjects!

     

    All in all, I saw MANY baby ~1-3” long puffers, a 2” long honeycomb cow, my first ever baby scorpionfish (2 1/2”), and for my first time out with this, (and having to depend on my creativity) am happy with the S2 and the Ikelite.

     

    Thanks to all who gave me info.

    Margaret

     

    baby scorpion

     

    seahorse

  2. Wow! I nominate Margaret for "engineer of the year" award for triumphing over adversity and getting her strobes to work after she flooded her cord. Way to go girl!

     

    Thanks for posting your photos and your experience Margaret. I'm sure you will get another chance to use your S2 soon. Now that Eric has a drysuit and those cool blue gloves, I'm sure he'll want to go diving in Monterrey all the time.

     

    I'm glad I could help you out a bit before your trip.

     

    Cheers

    James Wiseman

  3. Use optical fibers. They are flood proof. :blink:

  4. HI Margaret,

    I was glad to hear I’m not the only person having troubles with their S2 Pro. I’m having the same underexpose problems and not just in my housing.

     

    Just last night I was taking shots of my old 990 Housing for my E-bay auction. Wow what a fiasco getting the right exposers. I tried every imaginable combination possible with out any luck. I finally gave up on TTL. Set the camera to manual mode and the flash on automatic and threw trial and error checking the shots on my computer finally came up with the right exposers... Something not right here?

     

    I have e-mailed Fuji but no response yet.

     

    I also noticed the image on the camera always looks brighter then the recorded image, so I’ve gotten in the habit of checking the histogram for verification.

     

    I’m hoping my Kodak 14n will do better.

     

    Marc

  5. Hi Mark,

     

    Take a read through Margaret's post again. Unfortunately, she NEVER even got to use her external strobes in TTL - so her "underexposure" problem is doe to the fact that she was ONLY using the camera's INTERNAL FLASH for macro work. I'd call that pretty darned good for the internal flash only!

     

    She was also able to trigger her external strobes in slave mode by slaving them to the camera's internal flash.

     

    So I don't think it's fair to say that Margaret got bad TTL results from her S2pro - but heck, only she can really say. Margaret?

     

    I get EXCELLENT topside exposures when using the camera's popup flash. For lighting big subjects or for side lighting, I sometimes use one of my strobes as a topsides slave. Works pretty good.

     

    Cheers

    James

  6. Hi James,

    Your right, I was reading more into the post than was actually said. I how ever was looking to bitch a little and took advantage of the moment. But that doesn’t negate the fact that I’m having a problem.

     

    I agree with you about the built in flash, it seems to be less of a problem. It’s my SB 28 external flash in TTL mode that does not work properly, but it works great on my Nikon 990 .

     

    I’m not trying to put the camera down it’s a great camera. But I’ve had my share of underexpose problems with out using a flash. I don’t consider my self a novice and can see my particular camera might be having a problem, and I’d like to hear if it’s a isolated case or other wise. Your comment about using one of your strobe for topside “ WORKS PRETTY GOOD” is not to comforting.

     

    Marc

  7. You're right James, I never did get to use TTL with my strobes. The pop up flash certainly gave enough & accurate light for uw macro, but as I said, that black ring around then end of the port blocked the lower half of my flash, so the photos were fine on the top half and darker on the lower half.

     

    While slaving the strobe (1/2 power) off of the pop up, the images were still a bit underexposed, and it would have been a good idea for me to lower the shutter speed... of course, hindsight is often perfectly exposed.

     

    Marc, I have never used the pop up flash until I tried it underwater, but I just now did a test and I don't have any problems with it being under exposed with Program or shutter. However, shooting in manual, with the pop up and using the meter, well, the pics are over exposed a bit. I also did the same tests with my SB28, and did not have any underexposure problems. Up to now, I mostly don't use a flash at all, inside or outside, and I'm happy with the exposures.

     

    I still don't quite get the 'histogram' concept, or point, so I imagine at some time, that may be something helpful to learn about.

     

    Also, while shooting underwater, the lcd (is it actually an LCD?) consistently showed the image looking brighter than the actual picture turned out. I don't notice that topside at all though. So, James mentioned there is a way to change the lcd viewer to show the screen darker, and I'll likely do that next time I'm underwater.

     

    If you're getting consistent poor exposures, umm, well that doesn't make sense to me.

     

    I'm very happy with the camera topside, and feel with more experience and more knowledge of the camera, I'll be just as happy uw.

     

    Margaret

  8. Hi Marc,

     

    I hear you man. If I had a $2,400 camera that wasn't performing, I would be P.O'd too - and bigtime!

     

    I've been using an SB28-DX topside some too and I get really good results. That's because with the DX speedlite, the camera can do 3D Multisensor balanced fill flash. It can't do that with the SB28 - only "old school" ttl.

     

    When I use my external strobe as a slave, it's to get side lighting, like in this shot:

     

    nikonoskit.jpg

     

    That shot uses the popup flash and a slave strobe - it's basically to make it look better by casting shadows to the side. That's why I said it "works pretty good."

     

    It sounds like you should call Fuji then Marc. I have heard that they can "tune" the meters in the camera.

     

    Cheers

    James

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