Sea & Sea Yellow Sub 50 TTL and Coolpix 5000

Hi Folks,

I am new to underwater photography and I just discovered this great web page and its forums tonight. Good place to learn!

I am surely going to read more in the forum on u/w lighting, but I hope you can give a short answer or point me to an article...

I had the chance to test-dive a YS 50 TTL connected to my CP 5000 in a SeaLux CX5000 housing. Until now I've been taking pictures without a strobe.

Its quite dark here in Switzerland after work (well it's winter here), so it was a night dive. My buddy was lighting my victims with his torch. Flash was set to TTL and camera was on "P". Result: all pictures pitch black!

I switched the strobe to "On" and had an overexposed picture... Played around a bit with aperture and shutter speed and things improved a bit... I know, I am still in the very steep part on my learning curve...

Ok, here is my question:

I have the chance to get the strobe for quite a reasonable price and wanted to ask you guys: Can I grow with the YS 50 or is the strobe simply not suited for my equipment?

Cheers

Thomas

Hi Thomas,

If I remember correctly, then the YS50 is a small TTL compatible strobe with a built-in Nikonos sync cord. Is that correct?

It sounds like when you switch it to on, it fires a manual full power burst when you press the shutter, which is good.

This is a small strobe which will be good for macro. I have never used it before but Bob Wharton has. Perhaps he'll post some of his experiences.

First thing you need to do is test your strobe and camera in manual at home. Set the camera at the highest f number at 1/125th. Put the strobe in TTL. Point the strobe at the camera lens and take a picture. The strobe should only put out a tiny "blip" of light.

Now perform this test again, but point the strobe away and cover up the lens with the cap. You should get a FULL dump from the strobe.

If the above test yields those results then you are getting TTL from that strobe and it is syncing w/ the camera.

Good luck!

James

I would suggest a DS 50 for Macro and or a 125.. Ike all the way!

Hi James,

If I remember correctly, then the YS50 is a small TTL compatible strobe with a built-in Nikonos sync cord. Is that correct?

Yes, that is correct.

I did the test. I believe it syncs - one can also hear the different "beep" when the strobe loads after firing.

Have you an idea, why the pics were black? I don't think I was too far away from the object (1m and less).

Thanks.

Thomas

Hi,

The YS 50 has 90 degree coverage and is suitable for standard 35mm photography using a 20mm lens. Until the introduction of the YS120 (100 degrees)and my ike 160 (narrow) it was the sole strobe for WA.

Yes, with a defuser it is perfect for macro too. The guide number is around 25 UW.

Problems listed by user: Will not work with Program as do dedicated strobes. The only way to use it successfully for the camera mentioned is in Aperture priority in much the same way as for 35mm film. Lens must be stopped right down to f16/f22 for macro depending on distances from subject. General stuff f5.6 - f11.

The green light on the rear of the strobe will light to confirm TTL operation...

If the light doesn't glow - open up a stop more and shoot again.

I think you got the black frames because the units were out of sync - 1 auto & 1 manual.

Test it again before you buy, and if works and the price is right go for it!

It is a good hardwaring reliable strobe - I have had mine years, its been stood on, dropped on and attacked by Cuban Barracuda but still keeps pumping out the watts.

All of my pictures are taken with single YS120 or YS 50 strobes even for the 165 degree 12mm and I love em.

Enc. Image: Giant blue frogfish in Maldives

20mm S & S lens on Nik V with YS50

f11 @ 1/60 at 1m distance.

Hi,

Thanks for the encouragement. I'll try the strobe again during the weekend.

Problems listed by user: Will not work with Program as do dedicated strobes. The only way to use it successfully for the camera mentioned is in Aperture priority in much the same way as for 35mm film. Lens must be stopped right down to f16/f22 for macro depending on distances from subject. General stuff f5.6 - f11.

The green light on the rear of the strobe will light to confirm TTL operation...

If the light doesn't glow - open up a stop more and shoot again.

Where did you get this answer from? Is it a knowledge base or FAQ on Sea & Sea strobes? I'd get "my" strobe without a manual and that's why I am interested in such info.

Thomas

Greetings from Singapore... Crap flight I might add, and lost another 4 hrs!

All the information comes out of my head from an 11 year experience with this particular strobe. Like I said before it is hard waring and very reliable.

Yes, the other thing in it's favour is its smallness (A good comparison is concentrated orange juice) - Takes up little room in a bag.

To make it super efficient with rapid recycling time use 4 NiMH rechargeable batteries, no more expensive than duracel and 1000 times the use. 1 charge will last all day or 200 frames.

Look after the battery case o ring by cleaning & greasing everytime it's opened, and keep the contacts on the cable & bulkhead clean.

You can spend time using it on the surface too getting used to it, afterall you're not wasting film!

Cheers,

Bob

Cp 5000 will only hit F8 due to reasons listed in previous threads so the stops will have to be adjusted from those recommended.

Maybe a thread with recommended settings can be started for the cp5000 to help you with your decisions.

I am bemused by this "Expensive" cameras apparent lacking... How much control do you get in Manual? Does it have a night setting on the flash menu like my little Olympus c-100?

Just wondering as this adjusts things not to OE

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?act=S...3ced677ee3f9e70

Here is where it was previously discussed