I'm new to this forum and to U/W photography. I'm headed to Bikini Atoll in March and am looking for a suitable digital camera. I like the Aquatica housing for the Cannon 20D w/2 Ikelight DS 125's. I'm told that the 10-22 is a good lens for general wreck photography. This is a huge investment for me but I can't imagine making the trip without a good camera. I guess I'm just looking for some feedback and ideas. Thanks. -PW
- 15Posts
- 15Replies
Read-only discussion
Camera for Bikina Atoll trip
-
-
A) Traveling in March....buy now! And spend as much time as you can in a pool getting used to it. You're not just learning a piece of equipment, it's a whole extra set of photographic skills.
B)I'd honestly consider just a single strobe.
C) Make sure a bunch of that pool time is shortly after sunset. This will give you a good feel for the balance between strobe & ambient light that you'll find at depth.
D)Write it all off now. Assume it will flood. This will put you in the right frame of mind for diving overhead-restricted with a camera, and keep you from doing something stupid.
E)After a dive, take care of your dive gear first. This is the exact opposite of a typical recreational dive for me - I usually go straight to the camera table - but for overhead restricted, I force myself to post dive all my gear first, then, the camera. This, for me, has helped "burn in" that these dives are primarily deco dives that happen to have a camera along.
All the best, James
PS...Do you dive dry? If so, I'd reccomend taking that instead of a wetsuit, if you're really used to it. Plus you'll save the cost of picking up a double bladder, if you don't allready have one.
-
Ya, 20D and 10-22 would be a great choice for Bikini. Nice thing with Aquatica is its depth rated very deep.
I would say a great combo.
But be aware that heading to Bikini you must be very weight/gear conscious as the plane is small. James makes a good suggestion for 1 strobe. The WA you will be shooting there is usually pretty lobsided to natural light
-
Hi PW and welcome to Wetpixel
If you want to shoot a true 180 degree fisheye, I recommend you look at the Canon 5D or the Nikon D70. The 5D w/ a 15mm fisheye is great, but housings are scarce. The D70 w/ Nikon's 10.5mm fisheye is also great.
As for strobes, I'd go along w/ the single strobe folks, but recommend an Ikelite substrobe 200 as it has wider coverage and is about a stop more powerful.
Cheers
James
-
I agrre with most especially the Ike 200 strobe. I shoot 2 on deep wreck dives but 1 will be enough forstart. THE housing I'd go for is a subal. Own 2 of each 2 subals 2 aquaticia. Love my subals-Rayan at reef photo-a sponser here can hook you up. Mark
-
I guess two strobes can be too much to handle for a new photographer?
-
Regarding two strobes versus 1 --
I am still a bit of a beginner myself, but can see a few advantages to two (I shoot Nikon/IkeliteDS125).
Where a single DS125 can cover (macro, 16mmFE), that's all I use.
If I need more coverage (10.5mmFE) or want to try special lighting, I have two 125's w/ diffusers.
and if I flood 1 strobe, I have another! *****
Also, a single 200 ain't that much cheaper or lighter than 2 DS125's. The 200 costs/weighs/displaces about 40% more than one 125; two 125's cost 40% more than 1 200. So if one 200 doesn't seem too dear compared to one 125, then two 125's ain't dear compared to one 200... Right? Well, my wife didn't buy it, but...
Even though the 200's output is almost twice the 125, its guide number is only about 20% higher. The Ike site says the 125 and 200 have the same beam angle -- but the 200 has always seemed wider to me.
Bottom line, for me: the 200 has advantages in very clear water where high output powers won't cause too much backscatter (I know cave divers love these babies). But redundancy, flexibility, recycle time, and the moderate difference in weight made me choose two of the smaller 125's.
If I were limiting investments andn weight, I'd consider one 125, and add another later.
As I said, I am still learning.
All the best,
Chris
-
James (or anyone):
Can you expand more on the 1 vs. 2 strobe options? I appreciate all of the feedback so far. Very, very, helpful! - PW
-
Sure, here's the thinking that went behind my reccomendation for a single strobe:
Double strobes give even light across the full frame of a wide angle. This is especially noticed when there is close-up subject matter on both sides of the frame.
Learning the use of two strobes...especially with one throttled up or down for differing subject distances...is a thing that takes some doing.
However, the bulk of your Bikini wreck images will probabally involve a single close subject, with the rest of the wreck dissapearing into the other intersection of thirds.
This can be very adequately lit with a single strobe; backscatter is easily controlled with a longish arm; only one sync cord to deal with; a single strobe makes a better package when hung from the left hip.
And, you'll only have about 20% of your thinking power available to you, anyway, in between brain clutter from the profile, equipment, and breathing air (!!!), so this suits a single strobe.
I hadn't thought about the SS200. It's a good choice mostly because of the angle of coverage, plus the extra horsepower would be nice in the hanger. For most of the open-water shots, expect to have it throttled waaaay down.
Hope this helps!
All the best, James
-
Yes it does. Thanks James. What about getting the optional moisture alarm? I'm wonding if this would be of any use because at mid-dive there isn't anything you can really do if it senses moisture in the housing. While I'm at it, what is a realistic amout of memory cards to bring? I was thinking about 2 1gb cards? Thanks again. PW
-
One more question. Would a single DS 125 be suitable for the Bikini trip. I'm thinking if I get that strobe I can always buy another later down the road if needed. Thanks.
-
I would also consider Nexus, they have a deep version of their d70 housing that is rated to 100m, and housings for the 5d, 20d, and d200 are on the way. Nexus also has a glass dome port, eliminating the counter intuitive process of sticking a cheap piece of plastic in front of an expensive lens...
http://www.reefphoto.com/index.php?main_pa...96ca5b1e263b089
I'd echoe James' suggestion for the d70 and 10.5 fisheye or 5d & 15mm. The DS125 is pleny of strobe w/ the ISO 200 (d70) camera, but if I where using a 20d/5d/d200, I'd use a single 200 (SS or DS makes no difference w/ your camera, and SS are available for almost nothing on the used market).
Your housing should always be tested in a not-so-corrosive fresh water rinse tank before going into the water, and a moisture detector can be useful for picking up floods early.
I would travel with something to back my photos up on mid-trip. In a perfect world, this is a laptop. You could settle for an imagetank, archos jukebox, epson p2000, nikon coolwalker, ipod, or delkin burnaway though.
-
I'd take 2 strobes. Never know when one might fail of flood. Especially when diving deep. Your equipment may be rated deeper than you are going but it is still under a lot of pressure.
-
What about getting the optional moisture alarm?a moisture detector can be useful for picking up floods early.
Ryans right. A moisture detector can save your system. a "flood" isn't nessecarily large and dramatic with the housing filled with water. It can be v. small and, if dealt with properly and promptly, recoverable.
Re the strobes. Perhaps have a look at what wreck photos you like and work out what type of shot you want to take. If you like the big wide wreck shots maybe no strobe is an option
If its wide angles with something up-close in the foreground then one strobe, if its up close from corner to corner then two.cheers
Lndr
-
Sorry I'm so ignorant, but what exactly is DS vs. SS? (See Ryan's post). As far as back-up, would a handheld computer work? I was going to purchase one to run my V-planner anyway since I want to leave the laptop home due to weight and size concerns. Wow, it seems like the more I find out the more questions I have, although I'm grateful for all of the imput since I would have made some big mistakes without it. So far I think I'm headed for the Cannon 20D with an Aquatica Housing. B&H doesn't seem to sell the Ikelight 200 strobe. Does anyone know if it would be compatible with the Aquatica Housing and if so a good place to buy one? Thanks again. I must say I'm getting excited for this trip. -PW