autofocusing with 60mm macro lens

Need help solving a focusing problem. Am using a Canon 20D, Ikelite housing, DS-125 and DS-50 strobes. Just purchased a canon 60mm f2.8 Macro with auto focus and Ike housing. My problem on my last trip was getting the system to autofocus at close distances. I was using the modelling light on the DS125 and had a bright LCD underwater flash attached to the DS50, but when trying to get 1:1 closeups, even with the lights on, there was often not enough contrast in the subject to obtain autofocus. Anyone else having this problem and have solutions. I don't think there is the ability to manually focus this lens with the Ike port.

Ed Druy

I had the same problem when I first got my housing. I was so frustrated I went back to my Nikonos V! As I dive in the dark waters of BC, I tried LCD lights, SL4 lights, Ikelight PC lights, nothing really worked. Bought the Fisheye Fix light, and voila! Lots of $$$, but frustration factor is way down.

Cheers,

Marli

Yes, the solution is to switch to manual focus

I thought Ike did make a MF port for this lens?

I don't have MF available to me on the Subal with this lens, so I have to do the focus lock and rock sometimes. Focus on something else about the same distance and rock in and out until you have it.

Maybe check where your focus light is aiming too...sometimes if you can get a little shadow or light just the edge of the subject the lens will grab right away.

Thanks for your reply to my post. What is the advantage of the Fish Eye Fix light over the other LED lights, such as the Ike MiniC and others which attach to the strobe arm. Is it simply the brightness? Do you attach it to the strobe arm next to the strobe, or in a fixed position lower down toward the housing? Seems incredibley exensive compared to other focusing/modelling lights.

Ed

It is expensive and I think unnecessary. I have been using Mini Q 40's for some time now and have simply never had and autofocus problems. You just need to have enough light and contrast to lock the focus. I also use manual focus a lot and slowly move the housing in and out from the subject. I don't know if Ike's housings have a screw mount option for accessories, but if it does, you should attack your aiming light to the housing with a flexible arm (Loc Line) so you can position it any way you need to.

Joe

1) The 20D should easily focus with the 60 Macro, you may have light, but you're not getting the light to the subject. 1:1 on the 60 puts the subject very close to the port, and you may actually be shooting in the shadow of the port

2) I've used a UK SL4 light for my macro shots here in BC and the tropics, have been since 99. Using a Tamron 90mm, 10D, Woody's Diopter, +4 diopter lets me get VERY close to a pygmy seahorse or decorated warbonnet. (though not as close as Rand's)

The key isn't blinding your poor subject, it's getting light on it to allow you AF to work. The 20D has fantastic AF capabilities.

Macro AF works...I've got the images to prove it. Fancy lights won't help you if you don't get the light on the subject. The Fisheye apparently has a broader beam so you don't have to be as critical in aiming the light...

I have my focus light mounted on the housing, so it works independent of the stobe position, you may want to try to mount it that way.

My 2 cents.

Stu

"The key isn't blinding your poor subject, it's getting light on it to allow you AF to work."

Precisely!!

Since the 60 requires such a close shooting distance, have you all had better results with a 100mm Macro, letting you stand off from the subject a bit more? Is there any other advantage to the 100 vs the 60?

Ed

I hardly use my 50 Macro anymore, it's been replaced with my using the EF28-105 zoom. The extra working distance of the longer lens will help you by letting you position yourself further away, but it is harder to frame your subject....but as far as my experience goes, 1:1 with a 60 isn't worth it due to the working distance.

If you want to see what the 28-105 and Tamron 90mm can do, click on the link below:

Philippine Slide Show

It's for PC only though, and will ask for permission to install a plug in from the Pro Show website.

Stu

I thought I would use my 100 all the time. Turns out I don't need to be that far from the fish a lot of the time and I have been using my 60mm more than ever. I use it for nudibranchs and the like and for fish - love it.

The key isn't blinding your poor subject, it's getting light on it to allow you AF to work.

A few weeks ago I bought a fish eye as a focus light. Id been using small flashlights for years. The above is one of the reasons I like the fish eye. You can turn down the brightness with a dial, allowing you to minimize the amount of light for skittish creatures. I also like the wide, even, beam. Makes things a lot easier to see for both MF and AF.

Cor

scubastu--INCREDIBLE set of pictures there! Very nice show!

Thanks John! and the only aiming light used was the UK-SL4

Stu