settings for nikon D200/D2X

hi,

I got my sealux housing for my Nikon D200 today it lookes good and I will test it in a diving tower this afternoon. I will let you know about handling etc. later.

question: what settings would you suggest for the D200 for underwater use ?

I will set everything to auto and change just Color mode to adobe RGB and mode III (saturated) and saturation to +

what do you think of this setting, I come from slidefilm with fuji Velvia and Kodak ebx?

What settings do you use for your D2X and how can I compare them to the D200?

Rob

I'd shoot RAW in manual mode ISO 200-400, F8, S 1/100 if I was using strobes.

http://www.splashdowndivers.com/photo_gall...ettings_d70.htm

hi Peter,

thanks for answering so quicly.

yes I know my settings for F-Stop/shutterspeed and Iso.

but what color settings do you use? Adobe RGB mode III (saturated) or mode II

saturation to + or neutral ?

what looks more like velvia and Kodak ebx?

I am going to Lembeh next week so I will almost do just Macro.

Rob

For a D200 I use AdobeRGB, mode III and vivid. I found the extra vivid was a little too much when shooting UW macro. Others might differ of course.

Is the dive tank open to the sky or indoors?

Either way I would set the white balance to the type of lighting. Normally daylight works best. But if the tank is under incandescent or flourescent try that. I would experiment with Auto WB as a last resort. I agree with setting it up for manual exposure. Don't rely entirely on the monitor image it will look much better on your computer.

Steve

Rob, re"but what color settings do you use? Adobe RGB mode III (saturated) or mode II

saturation to + or neutral ?"

If you shoot RAW it doesn't matter as these parameters can be set and adjusted during post processing.

hi Peter,

Thanks I didn't know that.

Rob

Peter-

Shooting RAW wit a single DS-125, iTTL what settings would you use? I am thinking: Shutter priority: 1/125 and let the camera do its thing when using a 12/24 and hoping to get a sealion.

Regards,

Tom

Tom, the 12-24's corners get soft if you shoot wider than f8. If you are using an Ikelite TTL housing, I'd set it to 1/125 and f8 and let the strobe make up the difference.

Karl

Karl-

Thanks. I think I get is. In fact I am using an Ike and iTTL.

Mode: manual, F-stop F8, ISO 100, shutter 1/125.

Question. The D200 seems to have the ability to change ISO settings if necessary to get a proper exposure? Assuming I start at 100 should I let the D200 make ISO changes?

One goal I have for all this expensive hardware is to set the 12-24 to a reasonable magnification, point the strobe so that it covers the center of the shot between 1' and 4', use center focus, place the subject in the center and get all those shots I missed because of the damn 5050's shutter lag.

Crop to suit.

An $8000 point-and-shoot setup.

Tom

I wouldn't shoot above ISO 100 (unless I was using a Canon 5D), just let it fixed on 100, anything above that will show signs of noise, especially if you crop and enlarge. Also, I really don't like what TTL does to wide angle shots, when shooting in TTL the camera tries to iluminate the background and often overexposes the foreground. I always shot wide angle on manual, even back in the film days.

Luiz

Tom, like Luiz I prefer manual strobe control when shooting WA, but if you are going to start with TTL, take a trial shot and then dial in some exposure compensation to control the light on your subject/foreground. Read this article by David Haas on using TTL....it's for a Canon, but the concept is the same.....David Haas Article on TTL

I haven't shot my D200 underwater yet, but from my topside experience, I would not hesitate to dial in up to 400 ISO if the shot absolutely required it.

You will love the instant shutter response with this DSLR, but don't expect the camera to be automatic. You still have to set it up properely for the conditions and then point it in the right direction.

Karl