Ikelite slave sensors

I want to add a second DS-125 strobe to my existing setup (Canon 20D, Ikelite housing and single DS-125 strobe with sync cord).

Ikelite offer these options:

A : dual sync cord

B : manual controller with slave sensor

C : wireless digital TTL slave sensor

Any opinions/recommendations/experience about these?

Ikelite's website says that C is not fast enough for TTL on current digital cameras. It also says that A is not necessarily more reliable than B.

How useful/important is TTL on the second strobe?

Any advice welcome.

I don't have TTL; but I really like the manual controller. I use a second synch cord with it. On an IKe housing I use it in slave mode.

One question, do you shoot TTL now?

I never do, so I would never bother with C. When shooting wide angle, I can get by with the settings on the strobe - 1/8 to full power is enough for almost all my shots. When shooting macro, especially wide angle close ups, where lighting gets more creative, I am happy to have my EV controllers.

I Use a Dual Sync Coord and in addition i have 2 Manual Controllers connected to the Dual Sync Cord (Slave Sensor is not used) to give me finer Adjustment and have the controll closer to me (ergonomics) I'm pretty happy with this setup.

Simon

I don't shoot TTL. Don't have it and don't want it. With the ability of reviewing each shot as you take it; I get more keepers with few shot than I ever did shooting TTL with film.

I prefer the ability to change the power output with the manual controllers.

You DO NOT WANT the wireless TTL sensor for your setup. It probably won't keep up with all the preflashes of your camera.

If you have a eTTL housing (which you probably do) then just get a dual sync cord. You don't need the 10 step controller, your housing already does this.

If you do not have an eTTL housing then get a dual sync cord and a 10 step manual controller.

I used to use two manual controllers and a single sync cord. It didn't work very well. I'm not sure exactly what the problem was but the slave strobe never seemed to fire as brightly as the other one no matter how I aimed it. It works reliably with the dual cord.

P.S. don't sell your single sync cord. You may need it. I kept mine as backup and needed it when one strobe flooded on my last trip.

Since you have the Ikelite eTTL2 version housing for your Canon 20D (the only way they made this housing, I believe) get a dual cord. Or get two.....

Hard wired while a pain sometimes eliminates sensors firing your slaved strobe from other photogs within a certain distance.

As far as using eTTL2, one of the most sophisticated flash compensation systems (along with Nikon's iTTL) ever invented, why WOULDN'T you try and learn how to use it?

I see photographers using their surface Canon 430EX, 550EX or 580EX flashes on the surface, dialing in -1.0 or whatever to quench the flash mixing it with available light. Then they REFUSE to even try this underwater with the modern electronic equipment they paid $$$$$ for.....Boggles my mind....

I shoot this way ALL THE TIME with Canon 10-22mm and Sigma 15mm wide lenses underwater. Pushing buttons on the housing back (which you have) is much, much faster and accurate than guessing at what distance and power settings the strobe head should be set to. Once you do this you have like maybe aperture to adjust, one variable....Allows you to concentrate on composition and angle and shoot, shoot, shoot......The camera and strobe(s) "talk" to each toher faster than any maanual adjustment can be made to achieve an optimum exposure.

Oy, my head hurts explaining this to people.........Underwater wide angle available light shooting can be this simple, you just have to try it and learn how to adjust your system quickly. eTTL2 and iTTL are here to stay, so why not give it a whirl if you already have an Ikelite housing and DS strobes?

YMMV

dhaas

Oh goodie....the "I kicked the TTL habit" vs the "I love TTL" thread is about to resurface.

Something else to throw into the pot. Please correct me if I'm wrong. If you have the eTTL2 housing and stick an EV controller between it and the DS strobe...you have cancelled out the possibility of using TTL. You can't use it even if you want to.

Personally, I use eTTL2 for macro and switch to manual on the housing back for WA if I have time to set up a shot and experiment with lighting. If not, I just leave it in TTL.

Agreed, using the FEC is the way to go. Its like semi-auto. It allows you quick control when you need it but it still adapts to the situation. This way you have only 2 parameters to adjust.

ISO: Always set to lowest settiong and leave it (unless you have some special filter/visibility issue which is for the whole dive).

Shutter speed: set for the color of background water you want. Needs to be re-set as you change aperture.

Aperture: Play with this as you want more or less DOF for subject isolation or greater amount of the frame in focus.

Full manual isn't that useful once you calibrate with FEC.

dmoss is correct in that if you install an EV controller in between your housing and strobe on an eTTL2 housing you have effectively canceled all TTL functions on that strobe.

Faster and easier for "ratio-ed lighting" is to pull one strobe farther back. Even in eTTL2 the strobe may try and put out enough light, but can only go so far underwater. Will likely not be as close as your main light source (Blue cord on a dual cord set up).

Hope this helps!

dhaas

Thanks for all the comments - I seem to have touched a few raw nerves there B)

One question, do you shoot TTL now?

Yes. I use TTL all the time with my single strobe. It works for me. I agree with dhaas that Canon eTTL2 is an outstanding system. Especially in the rough waters down here, TTL is fantastic for getting a correct flash exposure on a moving target. Ikelite's eTTL2 interface was one of the strong selling points of the Ikelite housing for me (especially the flash exposure compensation controls on the back of the housing).

Yes, I realise that using a manual controller on the second strobe will effectively eliminate the TTL function of that strobe. That's why I asked how important it is, in practice, to have TTL working on the second strobe.

As I understand it, none of the available systems includes a `ratio control' to tell the second strobe to put out (say) 1 stop less light than the primary strobe. So even if the second strobe is working on eTTL2, I would still have to adjust the lighting ratio manually, by moving the second strobe further away from the subject (as dhaas says) or ?? putting a diffuser on. Is this still much better than just having a manual power control on the second strobe?

I guess it all depends on the type of picture. dmoss seems to be recommending TTL on twin strobes for macro, but manual for wide angle.

Anyway thanks for the multiple votes in favor of the dual sync cord. I think I will go that way (and buy two!)