My thoughts on Dominica:
Dominica is very undeveloped compared to many Caribbean destinations, and that's part of its charm. The only white faces we saw all week were at the airport and on the dive boats. There were no cruise ships the week we were there and there are only a handful of hotels in Roseau. This was the greenest place I have ever visited. Lush is a understatement. Its like an undiscovered gem.
The diving is exceptional. Last July, water temp was in the high 70s. Vis was in the 60-70 foot range due to the daily rainstorms and the number of rivers in Dominica. Because Dominica's geology is volcanic rock and not soft limestone, there are very few deep nooks and crannies for the critters to hide completely in. Everything is just sticks out enough to see it all. Its one of the few places in the Caribbean where the crinoid are out with arms fully extended during the day. Truly a macro heaven. We dove Scott's Head - Sourfriere marine park and never really felt a need to get below 70ft. Be sure not to miss Champagne. Its a shallow dive site where volcanic gasses bubble up from the sea floor resembling a glass of champagne. Too cool. On surface intervals we'd often encounter dolphins and pilot whales. The dive crew from Castle Comfort were exceptional in handling our gear and were always ready with a quick smile and little jokes. The dive briefings were complete and thorough and the divemasters would always point out some of the more rare critters Dominica seems to have in abundance.
There's not much nightlife in Dominica compared to other islands, but there are plenty of daytime topsides diversions. The farmer's market in Roseau was pretty cool. All the fruits and veggies are locally grown. There's also a history museum downtown; its small but its pretty interesting. There's a lot of hikes, most of which have waterfalls as their destinations. Emerald Pool is a short easy hike, but tends to be one of the more crowded waterfalls. Trafalgar falls is also an easy hike, and you get two falls for the price of one. But for the best falls, you have to be a bit more adventurous, and be willing to hike to more remote locations. We made the hour hike to Middleham falls (Dominica's tallest) where I proposed to my then fiancee. We also made the hour or so hike up the riverbed to Sari Sari falls. We had both of these falls to ourselves. It was almost magical. The one must do is to visit Titou Gorge. There's a 5 minute walk to the gorge opening and then a short swim up the gorge where it looks like the water shoots out from a solid wall. We booked our tours through KHATTS. Their guides a professional and knowledgeable, but their tours can be a bit pricey for only two people.
We hired a local taxi to take us across the island to Rosalie Bay Beach and we got to walk on the finest black sand beach I had ever seen. The good folks at ROSTI post nightly lookouts on this beach during the summer to watch for nesting sea turtles.
We stayed at Castle Comfort Dive Lodge. The accomodations were basic, but comfortable. Water pressure can be hit or miss depending on how many people are showering at the same time, but we always had hot water. There's a small pool and a hot tub and a little bar overlooking the water. The on site restaurant had pretty good breakfast, but dinner and lunch were nothing to write home about, though I did enjoy the soups and the desserts. The Fort Young Hotel in Roseau had excellent food, though a bit pricey. There's also a little restaurant across from the duty free shops called La Robe Creole which was also pretty good.
Yeah, I guess you could say I'd go back! 