Ikelite port for Canon 10-22mm

I have the Canon 17-85mm with the Ikelite 5503.90 port. A few questions-

1- Can I use this 5503.90 port with the Canon 10-22mm?

2- If not, which of the two ports for the 10-22 (5503.50 or 5510.81) shoud I get?

3- Do either of these ports require the zoom collar thingy?

4- Do I really need to zoom the 10-22mm?

Speaking of strobes -

I have one Ikelite DS-125 and want a second strobe. Should I buy another DS-125 or get the DS-200 and why???

Thanks for your help!!!!

Bert,

Special port for your Canon 17-85mm IS lens has te zoom built in and can't be used wih the 77mm front size of the Canon 10-22mm lens.

The "standard" 6" extended dome port, #5503.50 works well, but is just a tad soft at full 10mm wide. Sharpness improves by zooming to 12mm or so, equivalent 35mm film angle of just under a 20mm lens view, about 95-98 degrees.

The 8" dome port is more forgiving, and many users have experimented adding a +2 or +4 diopter to improve edge sharpness at the full zoom of 10mm. If you add a diopter you will lose any above water focus except very, very close. You would need to do your system "test shot" above water at like 12" - 18". Once below you will have very close to full range zoom with or without a diopter on the Canon 10-22mm lens. Technically, since the Canon 10-22mm lens focuses closer than 12" a diopter ISN'T required, but some users feel it improves edge sharpness as detailed above.

You will need the special zoom clamp and sleeve set with either port option if you want to zoom underwater.

Hope this helps!

dhaas

Thanks for the reply. Sounds like the 8" dome will work a little better. Stupid question but what is a diopter?

Any thoughts on the DS-125 vs DS-200? One of each or just add another DS-125?

Thanks

Brian

Brian,

A diopter is a magnifier filter. +4 is stronger than +2, etc. Threads on just like a filter. Don't stack it with a skylight or other filter if you decide to try one. Personally I'd try the 10-22mm by itself with 8" dome port first and see if you're satisfied with the results. At f8 or smaller f-stop the edges should look fine.

As far as strobes, just get another DS125. Keeps it all the same and you have a back up if you decided to revert to single strobe shooting.

Feel free to PM me with any other questions.

dhaas

To kick off my first post I'd like to say "Hi" to everyone here.

Sorry to dredge this topic up from the past but I am looking at starting out at underwater photography. My plans at this point include an Ikelite housing for my 450D and I have been eyeing off the 10-22 Canon lens. I will probably stick with the standard 6" port 5503.50. However the specs for the lens specify a diameter of 83.5mm or 3.3" which is also the maximum specified for the port by Ikelite. I read somewhere but can't remember where that a lens with a diameter at the maximum may still be too big for the Ikelite port.

Can anyone confirm that this lens is compatible with the Ikelite standard port. I understand that this lens will require the special zoom ring clamp set too in order to use the zoom function if it fits at all.

Hi Cheezo,

unless you already have the 10-22 or plan to use it a lot topside I would advise against getting it for underwater work. I have found that even with the 8" dome I just can't get the corner sharpness that I want - even using a diopter.

I would suggest the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye instead. The compromise with this is that it is of course a fisheye and perhaps a less useful a lens out of the water. It's not that the 10-22 is terrible underwater and if you can live with the softness at the edges then it'll take some great shots but you'll probably find that the soft edges will start to frustrate you after a while.

Thanks for the input Haggis

I have not got the lens yet. I was thinking of versatility but maybe the fisheye is the way to go. However, would I get away with a 6" dome?

Actually I'm feeling like a little bit of an idiot since I realise that my questions have been answered in post 2.

Actually I'm feeling like a little bit of an idiot since I realise that my questions have been answered in post 2.

I would agree that the 6" dome does not help the 10-22mm with corner sharpness.

I have the Canon 17-85mm with the Ikelite 5503.90 port.

I'm planning to get the Ikelite port for my 17-85mm as my starting general-purpose setup. Is 10-22mm a better general-purpose solution or 17-85mm is it?

I'm planning to get the Ikelite port for my 17-85mm as my starting general-purpose setup. Is 10-22mm a better general-purpose solution or 17-85mm is it?

Let's start out with, "what kind of photography do you want to do"? Most of the pictures that I see online are either very wide angle, or macro. Not much in between.

As for the 17-85, I have this exact setup on a new rig. I would not recommend it due to the need for a close-up filter (they say +4, but I think you can get away with less) which can confuse the autofocus and gives very shallow DOF; and corner sharpness (which is very lacking). Also, the zoom control for this lens is not in a very good location at all -- I would have preferred to be able to use the larger, and more accessible, zoom control on the main housing.

I am leaning towards getting the new 18-55 IS behind the 8" dome. This should have a lot of advantages, including not needing the close-up filter, less corner distortion, and better DOF.

Dan

As for the 17-85, I have this exact setup on a new rig. I would not recommend it due to the need for a close-up filter (they say +4, but I think you can get away with less) which can confuse the autofocus and gives very shallow DOF; and corner sharpness (which is very lacking). Also, the zoom control for this lens is not in a very good location at all -- I would have preferred to be able to use the larger, and more accessible, zoom control on the main housing.

 

Dan

Thanks for the helpful information! After reading many comments on this website, it seems 10-22mm with an 8" dome will meet my needs better than 17-85.