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Some soft coral [hammer me]

Started by wetpixel ·

  • 18Posts
  • 18Replies

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Some soft coral [hammer me]

18 posts
  1. I like, shot this in the water and stuff. It was real cold.

     

    Just kidding. :)

     

    I shot this with a single DS-125, D60/Sea & Sea housing, Canon 100mm USM macro lens while in the Coral Sea.

     

    I find the 100 really hard to use if there is any current at all. How does one stay still while shooting with it??

     

    Anyway, let's try to start the practice of tagging titles with [hammer me] or [criticize] (or something like that) if you want explicit criticism.

     

    Otherwise, we'd have to keep honest, constructive, brutal criticism only to people we are familiar with, or we risk scaring off people who are new to uw photo or unfamiliar with the local user base.

  2. Ok. you asked for it :)

     

    I think it's technically an excellent shot. The foregound is in sharp focus, the background blur away nicely. But I don't find the subject as viewed this way very interesting. The colors do not stand out. If you had a fish or a shrimp in there to be the subject, this would be a great background.

  3. I agree with Herbko, Technically it is pretty close to right on. I find the composition interesting at first look, but I lost interest. It makes a decent abstract, I just dont care for abstracts :)

     

    As far as the 100mm, it a royal pain to use that lens with any current or surge. A photopro at our local shop showed me a trick he used in Fiji. It helped me a lot even though I still have a ways to go.

     

    1: Prefocus your camera for the setting you want either with manual focus or on a statinary rock or something b4 you approach the subject. (manual focus really helps here) I actually started setting my focus at a desired size b4 i went into the water and turning the autfocus off.

     

    2: If you can use the 1 finger on a rock approach do this. if not the principal is the same; approach the subject as slowly as possible with your eye looking theu the viewfinder. The moment you see a sharp focus click. Dont try to focus with auto focus or by holding still, its virtually impossible.

     

    This works great with stationary subjects as you can repeat the process ujntil you are happy. Its a little harder with something that takes off as soon as the stobe pops

     

    http://www.rkjarman.com/fiji/fish3.htm

     

    This shot was taken with that approach.

     

    he took off as soon as the shot was taken

  4. Adding to that: If the polyps were open the shot would have had more point or like Herb said a wee beasty lurking in there. Soft corals are notoriously difficult as a composition with longer focal lengths as something out of focus tends to mar the effort.

     

    However, having said that if you concentrate on a broader area of polyps in the same focus range this works or the oposite focus on the rich texture of the trunk or branches, then the softened effect of the OOF polyps becomes quite pleasing if composed and cropped nicely.

     

    Adding to what BobJ said about presetting focus - Yes, this is really the only practical way in changing conditions, and it saves battery life too - Focus lock is brilliant in this instance.

     

    I ABSOLUTELY HATE SEEING 105/100/180 users hanging on to even a rock! The trick is in how you position yourself in the water and the final sharp exposure is down soley to how you breath - or don't as the case may be.

  5. Nah, us photographers never skip breathe, right? :-)

     

    I agree w/ the above comments. If you bump the dendronepthya, then the polyps close and it's not as nice a shot. The truly awesome pygmey seahorse photos - the polyps are open - now that takes skill!

     

    I would also like to see your strobe 'punch' into the coral more to bring out the sclerites within the corals tissue. I have seen shots where the coral positively glows with this type of lighting. I hear that side lighting works well for this but I haven't tried it. Same works for tubastraea (orange cup) corals and orange ball anemones. If you sidelight them then the nematocysts "pop" up out of the clear tissue.

     

    Makes me want to get a 105mm lens Eric. Argh!

     

    HTH

    James

  6. Thanks, guys! all great feedback. :) I was so excited to have the 100mm lens in the housing (first time I had tried it, even though I had the proper ports in the past) that I wasn't really looking for interesting things to shoot. I just shot anything that looked good compositionally (is that a word? :(.

  7. Incidentally, James was telling me that the colors look "fake" tonight on the telephone (yes, we do use that sometimes. :). Here's the original file straight out of the camera:

     

    2003-01-27-echeng_softcoral_raw.jpg

  8. Incidentally, non-uw photographers find this photo interesting simply for texture reasons. They don't expect a shrimp or open polyps. I guess that doesn't mean that they wouldn't find it more interesting with a shrimp in it, but they don't lose interest as easily. :)

  9. I find the 100 really hard to use if there is any current at all.  How does one stay still while shooting with it??

    Have you seen the latest gizmo being pushed on the market (in UK). Basically its a line and large hook. It enables the diver to hook up to something solid without the need to hang onto coral. Saw a picture in latest DIVER mag which showed one diver using it with other divers grabbing coral.

     

    Mixed feelings about it really. Ideally a diver should be perfecting his buoyancy, although I accept in certain situations there is a need to take root. Thoughts??

     

    Mark

  10. ...and in instances like those should we be thinking about a picture - No!

  11. That brings up an interesting point though. There are some dives, I think in the Galapagos, where the bulk of the dive is done by clipping a large "reef hook" onto one's BC, and hanging in the current. Photos aside, should we not be doing dives like this either?

  12. We dove (Dived) with those in Palau. Quite useful, else the dive would be 15 minutes. :) We just found bare rock to clip onto...

  13. Tom,

     

    I think Bob is right in one respect. If conditions are that buoyancy alone unables photography then it shouldn't be done. However, for other diving/safety concerns I think you are right (Its basically what I meant in the original post, although I don't like to waffle to much). I have been on many a dive with strong currents and been worried about being swept too far. In addition, there are times in difficult conditions when you (or your buddy ) needs to take a breather. So if you need to stop & take root for a particular reason better to control it with proper equipment that damage coral & marine life. My opinion anyway.

     

    I have to control what I say on this forum. I recently posted quite a vociferous thread about a new UK dive centre and got a right slating by some. How to influence friends eh. Hey I can accept the stick. At the end of the day these are MY opinions, one of the reasons a forum is here right?

     

    Mark

  14. I've seen people using these "devices" all over the world - Rarely have I seen people in control. In several instances I have seen individuals turned upside down with their strobe arms wrapped around them. Others I have seen actually hooked onto gorgonian and hard coral formations.

     

    Diving with a housed camera and two strobes in strong current is senseless in my humble opinion - It's bad enough with just a Nikonos V & 1 YS60.

     

    On several dives in the channels of Aldabra the current reaches over 5 knots... Dives lasted just 15 minutes...

    Solution: We did the dive again & again - Granted it wasn't deep.

     

    Maldives: If anyone uses reef hooks on say "Panatone" in the north of Ari Atoll, they would be spinning like a whirly-gig!

     

    I prefer to practice something that has now become 'vectoring' (Using the force).

  15. Reef hooks are common in Coco's as well. I personally see no problem with them in areas that are mostly rock and lava and if you know what your hooking on to. (ie Rocks) Every time I have been fortunate enough to see hammerheads, there has been a pretty good current. There is no way I could have photographed in Cocos (on some dives) or Galapagos w/o one.

     

    Shallow reef dives are often complicated by surge. One can usually predict surge and go with it, but every once in a while you get surprised. The one finger approach can save a reef on many occasions.

     

    I personally would much rather see a photographer use one finger on a rock or dead coral for stability when approaching and than to push back away from a delicate reef than try to slide in and end up trashing the whole reef when an unexpected surge comes. My problem with saying always use bouyancy is that people will listen, and as a result reefs will get trashed, at least from what I have seen on my dives.

     

    I think we all can agree that you shouldn't even start photography until you have a good handle on bouyancy control. But once you have achieved that, use the tools and techniques that are available to you to assure that the reef is protected. The most important thing to do is repsect the reef, even if it means you dont take the shot.

     

    I'll close by telling a story on myself, an embarrasment. I was diving in the Caymans a couple of years ago, on a night dive. I saw an octopus in a relatively shallow reef. thankfully most of the coral around was dead from bleaching. I decided I could slip in and get some shots. The surge was so bad that I ended up out of control and despite a one finger push off I got spun around and pieces of reef were everywhere from a fin kick. Dead reef....but still. I quickly backed off, but the damage was done. I felt so bad i didn't take a camera out for the next two days practicing my bouyancy and as self imposed punishement. I hope we all learn from are mistakes.

  16. I never said it looked fake!!! Seriously, that wasn't one of my commments.

     

    Cheers

    James

  17. I would agree with James comments on the lighting of the shot. I do find they shot interesting but it would not hold my interest as long as others I have seen you take.IMHO

     

    As for following the off topic thread going on here, I don't have a problem with a reef hook. They need to be used responsibly.

     

    My pet peave would be the photographers who do not have bouyancy skills down and trash everything around their shot. Or, the ones who do great with bouyancy to get the shot but once it is taken completely forget about where they are and what there fins are doing.

     

    Lastly, am I the only one who notices how the Brits use "eh" more than the Canadian. Bloody well clowns...LOL

  18. Incidentally, non-uw photographers find this photo interesting simply for texture reasons.

    I'd agree with them. The textural qualities are very nice, as well as the contrasts with colour and the positive/negatives created by the focus.

     

    Nice shot

    :)

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