Cool Crab

This is an interesting critter. I'm playing around with more balanced lighting, allowing soft shadow to fall when appropriate. In this photo the shadow fell across the crab's eye. Do you think it ruins the photo? Would flat lighting have been better?

Hi Kasey,

It’s good to see so many people experimenting with lighting techniques of late and you have highlighted a couple of instances where lighting is important to make the subjects stand out from their surroundings.

SPONGE CRAB

Here the lighting has fallen short of the subject and lit the foreground sponge which causes the eye to fall short too. Due to the exposure of the sponge being perfect it adds to the distraction (too much red in the mix - hit auto levels).

The soft lighting on the subject has allowed it to merge with the close background too.

Two ways to have gotten around it:

1. Single strobe method: Using just one of the strobes it is possible to isolate the subject in a spot of light and therefore removing any over emphasis on fore or background. Extend the strobe over the front of the camera pointing down at the subject at around 70 degrees (allowing for 25%ism). A high f. setting will blacken areas outside the chosen spot which adds to the effect. The angle ensures that the front edge of the subject is not casting a hard shadow below it. To further isolate this spot you can add what is known in the trade as a “Snoot”. This is simply a piece of tube that fits over the strobe to create a concentrated tunnel effect. The power of the strobe output can be reduced for this concentration of light and allows for some stunning effects. It also helps reduce the possibility of backscatter in turbid viz (secret’s out). I use a similar method for close-focus WA shots too and it works very well.

2. Dual strobe method: bring the two strobes equidistant from the subject in front of the camera lens; pointing at around 60/60 degrees (allowing for 25%ism). The lens focus should prevent adverse lighting anomalies but, in the unlikely event, this can be rectified by adding a snoot to each strobe and even to the lens as a hood. Power output from each strobe can be varied to suit requirements, effect and circumstances.

In both instances Defusers are needed for correct shadow balance and saturation, and the both methods help reduce DOF problems.