Most conducive BCD for UW photograpy

I am new to underwater photography and have a question about BCD's. I currently have a Seaquest Balance back floatation BC and find that for wide angle shots, I don't have a problem holding a position to get the shot. My challenge has been primarily with macro shots while either suspended vertically, or on my knees, the BC (along with the weight of my rig), wants to pull me forward making it very difficult to lock and maintain a clear focus as well as not "fall into" my subject.

As I write this, it occured to me that maybe the solution is to neutralize the buoyancy of the housing...

In any case, I am interested to hear your thoughts/experiences on both.

Kory

Nikon D200, Aquatica AD200, Ikelite DS-125's

I used Ultralight buoyancy arms for the first time last week, and really liked them. I also have a Balance BC.

I am new to underwater photography and have a question about BCD's. I currently have a Seaquest Balance back floatation BC and find that for wide angle shots, I don't have a problem holding a position to get the shot. My challenge has been primarily with macro shots while either suspended vertically, or on my knees, the BC (along with the weight of my rig), wants to pull me forward making it very difficult to lock and maintain a clear focus as well as not "fall into" my subject.

 

As I write this, it occured to me that maybe the solution is to neutralize the buoyancy of the housing...

 

In any case, I am interested to hear your thoughts/experiences on both.

 

Kory

Nikon D200, Aquatica AD200, Ikelite DS-125's

I don't think you will find a better all around BCD than a Balance, they were the biggest sellers a few years ago for a good reason. .. they are simple. The newest ones though are a bit over engineered but still very good BCD's especially if you don't have to put any weight in the front ouches, and this may be where your problems come in.

I dive in tropical waters, so at most I will ever use is 4lbs, that will put 2 x 2lbs weights in the pouches at the back of the BC nearer the tank. However if I am diving with just 2lbs (sometimes none but then this doesn't apply) I will put a 2 or 3 lb weight on my tank, either on the tank strap itself or on a small weight belt of it's own .. but putting the weight back there will stop it from pushing you forward, especially when the tank gets lighter. Put all your weight closer to the tank opr at least behind you and you will find that you no longer fall forwards as easily.

Hi Kory, welcome to Wetpixel

you can find an extensive discussion on BCDs here:

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...2876&hl=BCD

Hi, Kory

It's more a matter of technique rather than which BC.

I like my backplate & wing, but any compact backwing BC works well.

Go dive without your camera and get your bouyancy and trim squared away.

Dive with minimum weight.

You may want to move some weight off your belt and up by your cylinder band.

You want to be nearly level in the water with your heels pointing up from level.

Think about your center of gravity.

If you shift mass towards or away from your center of gravity (usually near top of pelvis) you will tilt.

Watch a good diver, you see them bring their fins up towards their bottom (to tip head down) or lower fins (to tip head up). Find a cave diver to help you (if my explanation stinks) or see a a GUE fundamentals instructor.

Pushing your arms out in front of you, or pulling them under your chest, has the same effect as moving the legs.

I dive with a dinky camera, so I can't advise on whether your rig needs to be neutral.

By varying the distance of camera in front of you and angle of legs behind you, you can stay in place and just tilt up and down as need be. You shouldn't need to kneel on bottom, that's for in the pool.

Ideally nothing, or just a finger on a carefully chosen spot, touches down.

Best fishes,

Pete