Conclusion: It would take est.25,000 pictures before the price per pic is lower than that of a film using Velvia( F80 ). If only used for my diving, it would take me 15 years to get to break even, and if use on land, maybe it might go down to 10 years. Most high tech equipment has a write down period of 3 to 5 years........ conclusion. For pro's who shoot alot, they will get their money's worth, for ameteurs who shoot a reasonable amount ( 120 rolls a year ), the numbers dont justify the use of digital.
Wish I knew how to post my spread sheet on this forum.
Assumptions :
-Based on what I can buy the staff for here in Thailand
( USD$ )
Digital Body 2100, computer 1900, software 250 memory card 500 ( excludes cost of storage of 25,000 pictures on CD"s! )
Film
Velvia + develop $7.30, camera body and light box $915
Lens - using AF 105 2.8D micro, common to both so not in calculation.
Contructive comments welcome
Wow - Velvia plus developing for $7.30. Even with my 'there every day' discount I never got down that low.
Now I shoot hundreds of 'rolls' a year, so my DSLR paid for itself in about 4 months, but in reality we are talking your usage, so based on 120 Rolls a year (man that isn't many unless you only shoot underwater)
Lets redo your chart a litte bit looking at hard cost:
Digital:
$2,000 USD Camera body
$1,500 USD 2.0 GHZ Laptop
$0,450 USD Two 1GB Microdrives
$0,200 USD Sets of needed Rechargable batteries & charger
---------
$4,150
--------------------------------------------
Film: One Year, 120 Rolls
$502.50 Velvia, 120 Rolls, (6 packs of 20 roll ProPacks @ $83.75 from focuscamera.com)
$864.00 Professional developing with mount. $8.00/ roll of 36, minus 10% friend discount
$300.00 Decent color corrected light box, not some cheap thing
$800.00 Nikon F100 (lets compare Apples to Apples kind of. If it is Film or Digital and we are talking serious, I would be looking DSLR or the F100 now the N90S is discontinued)
----------
$2,466
As you have recuuring costs the next year for film/developing, I'd put the return on investment at about 2 years (240 rolls/8640 pics).
If we are not talking serious, then lets say a F80 = Olympus 5050 and you are talking a whole different calculation with digital way ahead. Just because some of the DSLR's are built around a N80 body doesn't mean you can make a straight comparison.
Also note I am not including software as I thought software cost = scanning cost (or buying a decent scanner), although I think I am being overly generous to film as scanning costs would be a recurring cost, or a scanner of any quality would be ~$500 - $1000 USD while a reasonably serious amateur could probably get by with a $99 USD program such as Paint Shop Pro or Photoshop Elements.
This is just a quick look at hard costs. As others have pointed, the experimentation alone is worth it. I'm willing to try anything now - at RAW on my S2Pro I get 80 shots underwater. Now I can really play with my subject and know that I'll still have shots left for the next thing I see. Also when I have that dream dive I have WAY more shots to shoot than with a roll of 36 - how many times have you been out of film after 1/2 a dive when you are on a new dive location and you are surrounded by things you haven't seen before?
Also as the dive ends and I have 27-28 exposures I don't have to run around finding something to shoot my last 6-7 frames on because I don't want to start the next dive with only a few frames left, but with a fresh roll. When I think of the wasted frames it makes me cry.
Also if you see something cool you shoot a few frames, download it, and don't have to worry about how I am going to finish the roll before the next dive - or worse having to play around with rewinding and reloading 1/4 a used roll (I hated doing this). I probably shoot about 20-30% more than I did with film because I am not worrying about how much development is going to cost me.
Next is the composition review on the LCD - after I take a shot I can look and CONFIRM that I didn't just cut off a fin, or way over expose, or way under expose, or all the other stupid things I do sometimes. That is worth the $$$ to me alone. Yesterday I took a series of shots looking for the right 'blue' for wide angle. Nice to be able to review aftr a shot and think 'too dark' or 'too light' - real useful when the sun kept coming in and out, and in shot/out of shot.
Others also point out the digital gratification - I can review what I shot that day and make any corrections. Also I know REAL quick if something is wrong with the camera. On a shoot I can tell that day whether I got the shot I needed or whether I need to go back and do it again. Also I test my TTL more often - because I hated wasting film on testing to see if it working or not.
In all, you are correct in one thing. Pro's will say quickly that digital is a cost saver - because it obvious (and we keep good records for tax purposes anyway). But I think the return on investment is much quicker than you think.
M