Spotting Aids

Still trying to get the hang of strobe positioning.... does anyone use a spotting aid to position their strobes such as a small light or laser? Whats a newbie to do? I'm sure after you have been doing underwater photography for a while it becomes second nature, but at this stage I feel like its all hit or miss.

I appreciate your comments.

Newbibranch

Still trying to get the hang of strobe positioning.... does anyone use a spotting aid to position their strobes such as a small light or laser? Whats a newbie to do? I'm sure after you have been doing underwater photography for a while it becomes second nature, but at this stage I feel like its all hit or miss.

 

I appreciate your comments.

 

Newbibranch

well, you don't necessarily want to point your strobes at your subject. straight ahead works well for big subjects because a wide strobe can throw light towards the center without throwing light TOO MUCH towards the center, which can illuminate backscatter between you and your subject.

i sometimes have to hold my housing out, facing up, to see where the strobes are in relation to the front of the port.

Me too.

I sometimes think my strobes are pointed "just right" only to flip my housing over (so the port is facing me) and they are pointing all over the place!

Modelling lights will help you with aiming, but like Eric said, you rarely want to point them directly at your subject.

For strobes that don't have modelling lights - there was a velcro device discussed on here a few months ago for strapping a small flashlight to your strobe.

HTH

James

Depending on your strobe and arm combo, there are some bracket options that can hold a small-ish light close to the strobe. For the Ikelite DS-50, you can get a bracket that holds an Ikelite mini-c light between the strobe and the arm, and is fairly cheap, less than $40 for the light and bracket. I think ULCS has some other options as well...

As indicated above spotting/aiming lights can be useful for determining where your strobes are aimed. Also as above you don't want your strobe aimed directly at your subject. Be aware of the angle of coverage of your strobe(s). You are trying to light your subject and not the water between your subject and your camera. If you aim your strobe directly at your subject you are guaranteed to do this.

I think I am stupid.

Why wouldn't you want your strobe pointing directly at your subject.

What good is it if it isn't?

Cheers

I've just re read.

I think davephdv may have explained.

Did it mean that if the coverage of a strobe can be described s V then if you are using twin strobes you want them aimed so that thw two Vs make a W with the subject at the centre?

If that makes no sense please tell me.

Cheers

Shooting with one and two strobes will differ.

If you're new to this aiming, a small low-power torch or or LED will guide you into the correct position, but rule of thumb with one strobe is look at the subject, then at your strobe, adjust stobe so it appears to be aiming behind the subject slightly.

If the strobe arm(s) is/are set at 30-45-60 degrees from the tray with strobe(s) pointing inwards it will prevent scatter or at least reduce it, whilst giving max detail better contrast & good saturation.

Looking at the strobe position after you have the subject lit by an attached torch it will appear maladjusted, once you can accept that fact positioning will be easier and the torch redundant - apparently!

Positioning of two strobes will vary depending on the effect you require and if you are attempting to isolate a subject or illuminate one or two subjects.

You should adjust your strobes for every composition, as subjects are invariably unique underwater.

Also, there is not much point in lighting things you don't need or intend to.

Have to admit this is a slightly confusing thread to read as it misses macro and extreme macro whereby the strobes would be aiming directly at the subject - I think (?????).

Also if you use one strobe for macro you would aim at the subject directly (????)

I use a DS125 that has an inbuilt aiming light - which I use (Macro) to aim the strobe directly at the subject AND also as a focusing light (should state I only shoot macro and extreme macro not in the least because I cannot afford a dome port and WA lens yet )

James,

I think it may be your comment thats confused me.

Probably me being a bit thick.

Why would you rarely want to point your strobes at your subject?

Whether your strobe/s are at 30-45 or 60 degrees[ed or even 0 degrees] (I know that wasn't your comment)

All help is sincerly appreciated. (I'm new to this as you can tell)

Cheers