Old School, Oly c3040z

I tried to do some research prior to throwing this out there (see below; maybe it will help others on their beginner set was the idea, also good for curing insomnia), but I'm a bit saturated on reading forums and checking my horoscope for direction so I thought I'd get the advice of the local 'Muckity Mucks.'

Objective: Cheap set-up for my camera, but purchase some quality components that I can slap on a fancy camera in 18 months or so.

I'm going to Bonaire in April and maybe Fiji in July.

My current conclusion (see 'fuzzy logic' in sections below): Oly PT-010 housing, Universal Aquatica TLC arm and tray with dual handles (do they make a dual handle tray?), Ikelite DS-125 strobe with manual controller, Oly macro lens (I thought I'd concentrate on one lens, one arm at a time). Thoughts, suggestions, thanks? :ph34r:

Oh, any suggested books for learning technique? I've seen good reviews for Church, Edge and Webster.

Housing:

Ikelite: $600 range, clear housing (can check o-rings prior to entering the water and look for leaks on initial descent with lens pointed down, although even with clear plastic it is hard to detect small leaks U/W), a little bulky (but more room for leaking water to accumulate prior to camera melt-down), dependable, depth 200ft

Light&Motion Tetra: $1050 range, durable aluminum, smaller case, can’t see leaks (opaque, but has double o-ring system people like, haven’t seen any Tetra leak stories so far), depth 200 ft

Olympus PT-010: $230 range (damn cheap!), compact, clear housing, only 30 m depth (but some have taken it down to 50 m and not had a leak) (but there are several leak and fogging posts)

Macro lens:

Inon brand is good, but Olympus (PCU-1) seems to have the edge on most forums; $205

Trays and Arms:

Ultralight: seems to be considered the best by most, but it will cost you ($200 an arm), but it is very light, well manufactured ball socket arms with o-ring design for reliable locking, and you can easily turn camera from landscape to portrait, it has internal bouyance on some arms (seems two 8” sections per arm would suffice)

Ikelite: seems that people who have the ball socket joint arms like it and is cheaper than ULCS (no internal bouyance, no turning of camera, adjusting arms not as good as Ultralight)

Universal Aquatica TLC: some like it as much as Ultralight and it is cheaper ($140 an arm); some say it is easier to adjust the arms U/W than with Ultralight

Strobes:

Ikelight DS-125: everyone seems to rave about this light, may be an over kill for the camera I have, but I can use it when I upgrade (plus Ike seems to support his product well)

Epoque: some reports say prone to flooding due to faulty o-rings, but otherwise good reviews

Batteries:

1800 NimH (Ansmann)

Night Light:

Maybe the Ikelite PC-a

Media:

128 MB Smartmedia card is a must (buy two, buy three)

Lens caddy:

Lens dock ~$40

Travel bag:

Pelican hard case is swell, again will cost you some clams ($200)(can you put a laptop safely in this?).

Lowepro Dryzone 200 is a sweet waterproof soft pack, but very expensive ($300, say what!).

I've heard of some softpacks that also accomodate a laptop, that would be ideal (anyone know the whereabouts of that pack?)

if you made it this far you are as compulsive as I am :freak:

I have a Oly 3040 in a Tetra and wouldnt trade th housing for any other. The compact size and bomb proof construction is great. I spent a week with it in deptahs ragning from 70 - 225' and it worked flawlessly.

By the way the depth rating is 325' not 200'.

ULCS arms are the best and they will last longer than your diving career will so it is money well spent.

I have 2 pelican cases a 1520 which I can carry and will handle the housing, (1) strobe, arm, Iomega Zip drive, power supply (220 to 110) , disks, and 2 lens. It would handle a 2nd stobe if not for the power supply. I also have a 1650 wheeled case which handles all of the above plus 2 more strobes, 2 more arms, battery charger (annsmann 120), with room to spare.

Thanks for the info and the correction.

Can you fit a laptop in the larger Pelican with your equipment. Is it small enough to count as a carry-on?

I could fit a laptop in the 1650 if I left out my charger (which is rather large). Neither of my Pelican cases will go as carry on. I think the largest Pelican that will is a 1500. My larger case is a 1650 which is about the size of a large suitcase, it has wheels and a end handle that extends for easy rolling. If I need to keep to two bags I remove the foam from the pelican and wrap my camera gear in my cloths, drusuit underwear, etc. Then I have enough space in a large rolling duffel bag for my dive gear including drysuit, 3 regs etc. My carry on is reserved for anything that might look like a bomb on a xray machine such as my canister light battery, dive computer, etc. and my primary regulator.

The things you have to do to make sure all of the toys get to go on vacation too.