This is meant to be an informative writeup of my experiences in buying my first DSLR system and a request to manufacturers to please make the u/w camera housings/strobes lighter underwater. As a disclaimer: these are only my opinions and experiences; my own personal circumstances, etc. But they might help someone else. Why is underwater weight of a system so important? Well for one-handed use while balancing the other hand/finger on a non-reef area it is obvious or with manual focusing it is obvious, but not so obvious is the muscle strain that a significantly heavy rig causes over repeated use and always the possibility that nitrogen bubbles will more likely form in and around strained muscles and joints.
I was very dismayed when I found out (to my surprise) how negative underwater the Nikon D200 DSLR systems were, especially with my [former] strobes, Inon D2000ws. Yes, I "should" have rented one first, but I couldn't find anyone who rented the d200s when I was looking into buying, plus I won't fully go into this but on a trip I was given a Nikon d70/Subal to take down (instead of a d200/Subal which was being used by someone else), and was led to believe that the in-water weight of the d200 system would be similar. I was wrong.
It all has a good ending though. I think I'll post specs for those who don't like to read the expanded version - longer version below includes data on my hand strain injury, etc.
Also I'll post huge thanks up front here to the guys at Patima, shchae (Sam) for saving the day 
, and Ryan Canon, Cor, Terry from ULCS and others for their helpful rig buoyancy advice and efforts. 
First of all specs or "quantifiable data" as Ryan called it. I'm sure he was sorry he asked me cause I started weighing everything for negative weight underwater.... 
......, I'm very thorough. Also don't shun Subal cause I understand Aquatica, Sea and Sea and most likely some others are even more negative underwater. Consumers can inform themselves by taking a negative-underwater weight of the total systems before committing to a purchase. These weight tests were done several times on three different occasions, once with another WetPixel member assisting. So they are quite accurate - as accurate as I can get with that scale.
Weighing Device: Rapala fishing scale
Medium: swimming pool - fresh water (I'm using system mostly now in fresh water springs)
Included items weighed: Subal ND20, Nikon d200 and 2 different lenses as below, Nikon 60mm and Nikon 16mm with Subal FC60 Flat Port and FE-2 glass dome; various ULCS items/arms/clamps; and with and without addition of FIX focus light.
Negative weight of two configurations:
This is for Subal dome and 16mm lens:
3 - 3/4 lb negative with no focus light
4 - 1/4 to 4 - 1/2 lb negative with Fix focus light & ULCS clamp & adapter on light
This is for Subal 60mm port and 60mm lens:
ND20 with everything incl Fix focus light and 60 lens/port = 4-1/4 lb negative underwater
(Fix light adds 6 ozs negative weight)
I just double checked by weighing "piece-meal" and seeing if I could get rid of anything.?I weighed in a big bucket of water with Rapala fishing scale.
ND20 w/ dome and 16mm lens/camera and one adapter on top + on clamp (no handles, etc) = 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 lb negative
Sea and Sea TTL unit w/ attached short cord & battery installed = 6 oz negative (might be more)
ULCS TRSLBD Tray + 2 ULCS grip handles = 6 oz negative
2 clamps plus 2 adapter for strobes = 8 oz negative
Sea and Sea 110 strobe = 3 to 4 oz negative with batteries and sync cord attached (no adapter) - (I was surprised these were so negative, must be the batteries or maybe I have trouble weighing something under 6 ozs, that is possible.)
FIX light w/ clamp = 6 oz negative
additional 4ea - 8" regular ULCS arms and 2 clamps ea remaining brings total to just about 4-1/2 lb negative.
This piece meal confirms the in pool, all put together tests.?Of course little mistakes can be made in each test but since they both jibe then we have a good idea that with all this stuff it is well over 4 lbs negative w/dome/16mm/fix light/etc.
Weighing system in the pool with everything attached, must be careful to get a "buoyant" weight with no upward or downward force:
Some corecell foam floats quickly banded on (they would be attached securely/neatly with zip ties for real). Ryan Canon made these for me and they are good because they don't compress and are modular. They are not good because they didn't displace the weight expected, we expected each "strip" to displace 4 ozs when in reality in my tests they displaced 1.6 oz each. So for all the bulk, stacking 5 or 6 on each 8" arm X 4, it displaced 2-1/2 lbs. A lot of bulk for only 2 and one half pounds, but it was much much more than any buoyancy arms gave me. Ryan did send me some larger "chunkier" corecell pieces to attach also but I haven't tried them cause I got some other help.
Carefully lowering the setup into the water for weight. You will note that I have eliminated the plastic Subal handles in favor of the ULCS TRSLBD tray and 2 ULCS grip arms that I can adjust however needed. This is because I couldn't reach the shutter easily with the original Subal handles (my small hands), and couldn't reach the shutter release and AE-L/AF-L button with the ULCS grip arms on the short brackets more commonly seen. I really like the grip arms and it didn't add much more weight at all compared to the original Subal handles with adapters attached. This tray/configuration was suggested by Ryan Canon and Terry from ULCS, thanks!
Taking weight with corecell foam floats attached:
Around this time I was contacted by another member here who (with utmost kindness that was heartwarming I must say) wanted me to try out the new Patima BC for DSLR picture and thread here:
http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...;hl=BC+for+DSLR
I'm sorry I don't have a picture yet of the Patima BCs on my camera system, I'm waiting for a photo that someone else took of me with my system all set (sorry I should have taken a photo of my own system underwater w/ the BCs attached....) I'll post when I recieve it.
But the Patima BCs are awesome!!!!!! I have one attached to each inside 8" arm segment, 2 Patima BCs total. It is really quite an "elegant" solution and has cool Korean lettering to boot with the words "Addiction of Underwater" also!! B) I know it was an idea that some in the thread referenced above kind of scoffed at, but the Patima BC design is simple and really works. It has much less drag than the foam floats. I know cause I swam up a channel with the system, a channel back in the springs that is greatly affected by strong tidal flow on outgoing tide. The Patima BCs just float back, sort of like your own BC wings and when I turned the system sideways to swim against the strong flow it was hardly any drag at all even with the dome. Each Patima BC displaces 3 lbs of negative weight, not fully inflated (you don't want to fully inflate these things, always leave room for expansion). So at 6 lbs positive for the two the BCs really add a lot to offset the negative rig. Yes, they will compress and I'll get to that later, but the plus side to this is I can inflate one on one side different than the other side (my Sea and Sea TTL unit makes the rig lopsided). Plus it is easy to change the amount of buoyancy, this is really neat. I often dive in shallow waters looking for rare or rarely photographed fish species so the ability to quickly let air out as I don't want all that buoyancy in shallow water is really cool 
Now as to the compression factor, yes they will compress at depth. I haven't made it to the deep springs yet to test it out exactly how much it does lose in reality. We have a couple of clear water springs around here that reach 100 feet so that is the place I'll try them out very soon, a nice confined space for a test. But if you have them both positive for 6 lbs total positive at the surface, your rig is a little over 4 lbs negative, I think there will still be enough buoyancy at 60 feet and possibly below as you don't always want the system perfectly neutral. But that is to test for now. Of course for deeper dives you could add air back into the Patima BCs with air devices at depth, but I don't know exactly how easy that is to do in practice. Plus it will have to be vented somewhat on ascent of course. But again if you are taking photographs that deep you already have the specifics (physics) worked out and are prepared for multi-tasking.
I do wish the Patima BCs had a simple dump valve. This was seconded by a dive-shop owner here who was very interested in them. I'd be willing to pay more for them with a dump valve. The "balloon-style" plug is simple but I'd have to test it for myself to be sure it didn't get "stuck", at depth underwater, shallow it is not problem to open and dump air or add air.
Also another thing you could do with these since they are attached with quick release clips you could change their orientation on your system in seconds underwater, using clips in other places!! This is really cool and I even tried it out - placing them under the housing you could much easier take those unexpected under/overs, remember they have 6 lbs buoyancy as I had them inflated at that time.
But the final draw back of the Patima BCs is that no one in the US carries them!! I want two more, for back up!! We need a US Patima dealer!!
All in all I'm very, very pleased with the Patima BCs for my DSLR. And very thankful at the caring that was displayed to help me get them and set-up and use them. Help and kindness are treasured things and very much appreciated by me.
Well this post turned into more of a "Patima BC for DSLR Review", but briefly I did suffer a right hand strain type muscle injury last June. I've actually been very lucky, never injured, never hospitalized and I'm healthy I've passed the rigorous NOAA dive physicals, swim tests and dive checkouts for my NOAA Scientific Diver classification. My right hand is still recovering but I can do most things again now. It was a combination of things but these items were key players (I had a scuba diver as an occupational therapist, so we narrowed down the most possible causes and things to watch out for to prevent future injury):
Players in my injury:
1) A 4 lb negative camera setup in Bonaire (my former system was that negative too). Using it without neoprene gloves that I always wear usually; due to marine park laws you can't wear them and that and the 4lb negative camera system and lots of bottom time, without the support of my cushioning, well-fitting gloves for my hands contributed to the injury. I had used this negative camera setup for months and many dives (but usually with gloves) but this time it caught up with me. I didn't realize the negative weight underwater was so detrimental. It is more detrimental to me because I'm a woman with small hands and probably about 1/3 the hand strength of most men.
2) Biking. I was riding my bike for miles daily, usually wore gloves, but my gripping type hand injury is a common one with bikers.
3) Other things; I was doing other things that contributed to the painful injury along with genetics but the above items were the major things. I couldn't use my right hand for weeks and weeks so this was major and the pain lasted for months.
4) Injury was not computer related at all!! (That was a relief, I can still type away......)
5) Injury was not dive (pressure) related (This was a huge relief).
So of course I needed more help than most to get my rig in the more neutral range. I'm not happy the d200/Subals start out at almost 2 and one half pounds negative before anything is even added in the way of strobes, etc. I think manufacturers should shoot for a neutral system to start, especially with the trend towards more negative strobes. I traded in the Inons for more buoyant Sea and Sea 110s, but even they aren't positive. Still they are less negative and that helped. Yes I opted for the Sea and Sea TTL converter. That is 6 ozs negative underwater, jury is still out if it is worth it or not, I haven't gotten it to work for me underwater yet. You have to decide if the negative weight of items are worth it as a whole.
But I do like the Subal housing, I like the control placement and setup the way it is now along with the Patima BCs I really like it. Plus the Subal buttons are so easy to push vs. buttons on some other housings. And I really like the Nikon d200 camera. Yes I guess I could have waited for the d80 and saved myself maybe a pound underwater?? (But maybe not??). But I'm happy with the d200 camera image quality and the fact that hopefully we might be able to use the Fuji S5 Pro body in the housings in the future. Thus giving our d200 housings a little more time and versatility before they go out-of-date in this ever changing U/W camera world.
In closing, hopefully someone else can learn from my experiences. Injury is no fun and if you come back from a dive trip with pain that doesn't go away, then something is indeed wrong and something needs to change.
I also found out there were a lot of people who offered me a lot of help with getting my camera system less negative.
The help offered by shchae (Sam) and the crew at Patima was the most valuable. It was offered and done with much kindness from great distances and as the saying goes when all is coordinated, received, said and done, injury healing, etc............
The ability to easily turn the camera system vertical with no effort and take this shot of a manatee "breath-print" = Priceless!!!!!! Carol Thanks again!
.jpg.857dbbfbdc4d79d9c6ebf7b4ba96ed1b.jpg)
