How to keep your housing or Nikonos from pitting

Hello Everyone,

I have a solution to stop the pitting on a Nikonos camera or a metal housing for any camera.

Go to a marine supply store and purchase a zinc anode. They come in various sizes and shapes, but the one I use is called the "pencil" shape. It is about 2 inches long and threaded 1/4-20 at one end.

I cut the sections to about 1/2 inch long, cut a screwdriver slot on the opposite end of the threads, then thread it into any metal part of the housing.

After one dive trip, the anode looks as if it were buried underwater for a year, but my housing stopped getting all the little "pits" that can lead to more corrosion.

If you have had the pitting problem, you know what I am talking about. There are some strobes that when attached to the housings caused extensive problems with pitting. Be sure and remove this anode for cleaning every so often, or it will become very difficult to remove.

One anode when cut up with yield enough pieces to last a very long time.

Hope this helps you,

Barry

Good advice Barry. The sacrificial anode must make metal to metal contact w/ the housing, so if you housing is painted, then mount it on a bare metal bit or scratch off a bit of the paint.

Seacam housings come standard w/ supplied anodes that fit between the handles and the housing.

Cheers

James

Question about sacrificial anodes:

My new Aquatica housing has anodes on both front and back halves. After a 10 day trip, he back anode is noticeably corroded, however the front anode looks new, but the lock-ring on the strobe cable was galled to the threaded cable terminator, in corrosive manner. The other strobe cable was fine.

Any clues to what was happening?

Yes, the cathodic potential of the strobe socket to strobe cable on the front of the housing was higher than the potential to the anode.

So the cathodic circuit was set up between the socket and cable rather than the housing and sacrificial anode.

Solution - get an Ikelite cable, they're made of Delrin (which is a plastic).

Why do I know all this? It's my career - lol.

Cheers

James

Solution - get an Ikelite cable, they're made of Delrin (which is a plastic).

 

Why do I know all this? It's my career - lol.

You are an Ikelite sales rep now????

I have a solution to stop the pitting on a Nikonos camera or a metal housing for any camera.

 

Go to a marine supply store and purchase a zinc anode. They come in various sizes and shapes, but the one I use is called the "pencil" shape. It is about 2 inches long and threaded 1/4-20 at one end.

I cut the sections to about 1/2 inch long, cut a screwdriver slot on the opposite end of the threads, then thread it into any metal part of the housing.

Hi There,

I dont suppose anyone knows of a good place to add one to a nexus d200 do they?

I got a lot of corrosion on my last trip due to the hotshoe on the top of the housing

I have 2 anodes on my Nexus D200 housing. There are two holes in the front, right next to the shutter trigger lever. I have one in that hole. That hole is metric on my housing, so the anode must be threaded accordingly.

The other one is in the middle 1/4-20 hole in the bottom where a tray goes. I use a small piece of 3/8" thick plexiglas as a sacrificial tray, so when the housing is set on something, it will only scratch the tray. The tray is secured using 2 nylon screws in the outer 2 holes.

I have used the tray for years and has kept my last 2 Nexus housings from being all scratched up on the bottom.

James is right about the anode making direct contact to metal. With the Nexus housings, this has not a problem when using the pre-drilled bosses I mentioned.

Barry

Does the efficiency of the anode depend upon the exposed area or does the current density increase as the exposed area decreases?

There is a correlation between anode size and current, but with the minute amounts of current and pitting that occurs it seems that any anode, no matter the size or shape, helps and will stop pitting. My 2 are only 1/4 inch diameter and about 3/8 inch exposed length each. Of course, they are longer than that since they are threaded into the housing.

As initially stated, it has completely stopped pitting for those photographers that I know of that have used an anode.

Someone mentioned the delrin connectors on Ikelite strobes. Having been an underwater photographer for 34 years, I have used several types and brands of strobe. Some strobe brands never cause pitting, so do. The delrin connectors are wonderful and a GREAT help in reducing the pitting, but the connectors do not completely stop it. This is from experience and the experiences of those in our u/w photo club.

I don't recommend screwing an anode directly into your housing. If it corrodes at the thread you will have real trouble getting it out. I recommend using a nylon screw to secure the anode to the housing.

Cheers

James

I don't recommend screwing an anode directly into your housing. If it corrodes at the thread you will have real trouble getting it out. I recommend using a nylon screw to secure the anode to the housing.

 

Cheers

James

Hi James,

That is why I earlier stated that I put a screwdriver slot on the anode, so it can be taken out often. After 2 years of doing this, with many dives and trips, I cannot detect any corrosion of the threads in the housing. I would much rather use this technique, which I consider regular maintenance, than to scratch a bit of paint off my housing. After all, that is what I am trying to keep from happening.

Good to hear from you,

Barry