Settings for over / under shots

What settings (f-stop, shutterspeed, iso, lense) are folks using for split surface / underwater shots. I tried some stuff in my pool last year, but didn't get what I was looking for.

Thanks

Corby,

I am pretty new at over/unders, having just gotten my Nikkor 10.5 mm fisheye and the new Sea & Sea glass dome. But from my first few experiments I can tell you what doesn't work! (~;

Using autofocus without using focus lock will tend to have the camera focus on the droplets on the outside of your dome port. It is absolutely amazing that the lens will focus this close - it does. One way to get around this is either using the focus lock and locking the focus after focusing on your fins or maybe your outstretched hand. Alternatively, the D200 has a dynamic focus control that allows the user to move the point of focus to whatever area he/she chooses. This seems to work as well. Also, make sure that you are using an f-stop of at least f8 to ensure great depth of field. Lastly, shoot in RAW mode so that in post-processing you can make a composite of two raw conversions from the same image - one exposed/adjusted for the underwater scene, one for the above water scene. Then, using a simple mask, 'paint out' the half of the composite that wasn't targeted with the adjustment. Voila - perfectly exposed images above and below water without the use of split filters. (~;

GG

Using a Nikon D70 and 10.5mm (no housing yet to get my D200 wet) I expose for the surface, and -0.5 to -1.0 stops at that (center-weighted metering) but focus on the reef. This gives a very dark image below the surface, which I bring up by creating a adjustment layer covering the dark area, then playing with the layer blending modes in Photoshop. I usually use a simple luminance mask, but a colour mask can be interesting. I prefer this to blending two different RAW conversions. With a small dome:

And with a proper large dome:

Tim

B)