Electronic white balance vs. mechanical button

I remember the white balance on the FX1/Amphibico Phenom was originally electronic. Then Wags found the mechanical button produced different and better MWB than the electronic way. Enough of an improvement that he modified his housing.

Was there ever a clear explanation why this was so and will this problem also appear on the FX7/Endeavor ?

Ron

With the FX1/Z1 it zapped the camera into WBing using the cameras service mode circuit hence it was not a true WB and you would get the water always having a green tinge to it. However you could still WB without a filter at greater depths than you can with the modified manual method, so sometimes it still comes in handy.

The FX7/V1 will be electronic as well but it will use the normal way to zap it into WBing the exact same way the the old VX2000 and the likes did.

Hence you will get a true perfect WB.

With the FX1/Z1 it zapped the camera into WBing using the cameras service mode circuit hence it was not a true WB and you would get the water always having a green tinge to it.

Interesting I noticed some shots (above water) that seemed to be green/gray also compared to others of the same models - sounds like the cameras may have been WB using different methods (a few Z1/FX1s) (?)

After my experience with electronic white balance, i must admit i would be incredibliy gunshy of another housing using it. That being said, it will either work or not. If it does, nothing left to talk about:)

Interesting I noticed some shots (above water) that seemed to be green/gray also compared to others of the same models - sounds like the cameras may have been WB using different methods (a few Z1/FX1s) (?)

If you are referring to MWB, quite factors affect the ability of the camera to properly WB. Obviously, light level and proper bright spot to shift colorspace adjustments to match are the most important. WB can be tricked and go awry by mixed lighting, such as halogen and fluorescent lights and of course uw.

Yes and a good uptop cameraman will WB their camera if they move into a room with Fluro lighting even though they may still be in the same building.

If you are referring to MWB, quite factors affect the ability of the camera to properly WB. Obviously, light level and proper bright spot to shift colorspace adjustments to match are the most important. WB can be tricked and go awry by mixed lighting, such as halogen and fluorescent lights and of course uw.

Thinking that is probably what happened, somehow an improper selection of what to WB against was selected or something else was awry

Yes and a good uptop cameraman will WB their camera if they move into a room with Fluro lighting even though they may still be in the same building.

Yup, scary though that the manner of WB (as you mentioned between manual and electronic) would give such varied results. No matter what seems there is always some post work to do

Ron

With the FX1/Z1 it zapped the camera into WBing using the cameras service mode circuit hence it was not a true WB and you would get the water always having a green tinge to it. However you could still WB without a filter at greater depths than you can with the modified manual method, so sometimes it still comes in handy.

 

The FX7/V1 will be electronic as well but it will use the normal way to zap it into WBing the exact same way the the old VX2000 and the likes did.

 

Hence you will get a true perfect WB.

Did Amphibico offer to change the Phenon electronic WB from the "service mode" to the "normal way" ?

Not trying to be a wise guy, but if it can be done on the FX7, why can't it be done on the FX1 ?

Plus, I don't know if the Endeavor will be able to be modifed to mechanical MWB like you did with your Phenom.

Ron

Going by what I was told, I think it was the only way to WB the camera electronically.

The FX7/V1 must be different, as I have been told it will WB exact the same way as all the other electronic versions previous like the VX2000 etc.

There will be no need to make a mechanical one.