Dedicated Focus Lights - how many people use them?

Sorry if this has been posted before - I'm new to the forum. How many folks out there use a dedicated focus light? Is there a benefit to using one even if your strobes have built in modeling lights? I have never tried one so I'm curious to hear what others have learned.

Thanks,

Dan

No worries, I'm new too.

What I have found is that at especially at night (or daytime under a rock or overhang), and especially shooting macro, there are times when I don't want the strobes pointed directly at the subject. At those times there may not be enough light on my subject for me to even re-find the subject, or for the lens to auto-focus. It seems that some folks like to mount the focus light on the strobe head which works if you don't move the strobe much, but doesn't seem to work for me.

Andy

And another thing,... :-)

I have found that at night/low light situations, the modeling lights still have to be pointed almost directly at the subject for them to help auto focus but the the aiming of the strobe is nowhere near as unforgiving and can be off by a few inches, but the modeling light's beam (which is much more diffuse than a focus light) has to be pointed DIRECTLY at the subject for it to be of any help in focusing at all. I've used Ikelite substrobes for 20 years with modeling lights and they were great because I could go on night dives with the camera and use them as a dive light, but they sucked as focus lights so even with a nikonos, when I shot macro I rigged up a small light with velcro. Thank God for NASA.

To answer the original question, I use a dedicated focus light; I have several and choose the one that seems to fit the conditions. During a bright sunny day dive, I will often use a Fantasea 44 LED light for things in holes or under ledges etc. At night I use either a Hartenberger or Niterider

Bill

My strobes have built-in modeling lights which is what I've always used -- I've been shooting underwater less than a year. My Ikelite housings also don't have a way to attach a focus light, but I've been thinking about trying to make something work. The previous post about velcro seems promising.....

My strobes have built-in modeling lights which is what I've always used -- I've been shooting underwater less than a year. My Ikelite housings also don't have a way to attach a focus light, but I've been thinking about trying to make something work. The previous post about velcro seems promising.....

You can get an adapter for the arms on the Ikleite Handles to attach Ultra Light Arms (probably others also) and attach a light that way pretty easily, though some things may change/be available depending on the arms you have

Ultralight makes an adapter that fits their arms or adapters called a neck ball adapter. If you Ikelite housing has the quick release handles and you use ULCS BA-IK into those handles then you can use the neck ball adapter, fit right under the ball in any section of ULCS arms. Sorry doesn't work with Ikelite arms.

Terry

Ultralight makes an adapter that fits their arms or adapters called a neck ball adapter. If you Ikelite housing has the quick release handles and you use ULCS BA-IK into those handles then you can use the neck ball adapter, fit right under the ball in any section of ULCS arms. Sorry doesn't work with Ikelite arms.

 

Terry

I'm actually talking to somebody about purchasing their ULCS arms that they don't use any more. Yes, my housings have the quick-release handles and I was going to get the ULCS ball adapters to connect the two systems.

I have a UK Light Cannon and I was just looking at the ULCS site and saw that ULCS has a mount for it. Maybe I should mount that sucker as my focus light!

Ultralight makes an adapter that fits their arms or adapters called a neck ball adapter. If you Ikelite housing has the quick release handles and you use ULCS BA-IK into those handles then you can use the neck ball adapter, fit right under the ball in any section of ULCS arms. Sorry doesn't work with Ikelite arms.

 

Terry

Hello Terry,

Just a note, is impossible to find this great item in your site.

I wanted to show a friend this item before we made an order from you and couldn't find it, only in the PDF catalog.

And to the original post, I also recommended using dedicated focus light, its much easier to use then strobe's modeling light, its can be used as the primarily diving light at night and its have it's own power supply (the ones with Led last for few hours) so its not 'take' burn time from the strobes.

Hello Terry,

Just a note, is impossible to find this great item in your site.

I wanted to show a friend this item before we made an order from you and couldn't find it, only in the PDF catalog.

It's on the SLR Housings page.

I have a UK Light Cannon and I was just looking at the ULCS site and saw that ULCS has a mount for it. Maybe I should mount that sucker as my focus light

I use the Light Cannon as a focus light. It's a bit bulky, but puts out a ton of light and is great for night dives and anytime I use the 105VR, which focuses much easier with a powerful focus light.

In better light conditions I use dual UK Mini Q40 eLED lights with diffusers cut from the extra light cannon diffuser. Backscatter did a review of this setup but did not use diffusers, which make all the difference. It's a very cheap alternative.

Take care,

John

I use the Light Cannon as a focus light. It's a bit bulky, but puts out a ton of light and is great for night dives and anytime I use the 105VR, which focuses much easier with a powerful focus light.

 

In better light conditions I use dual UK Mini Q40 eLED lights with diffusers cut from the extra light cannon diffuser. Backscatter did a review of this setup but did not use diffusers, which make all the difference. It's a very cheap alternative.

 

Take care,

John

I've got a pair of the Q40 eLeds and the ULCS mount should be here tomorrow. I saw the backscatter review, it seemed to be pretty slanted to the $400+ options. I'll try the diffuser idea. Thanks.

I have a dx350 sea and sea housing and the sea and sea focus light is always on my housing when shooting macro. it connects to the housing via a hot shoe and synch cored. it is triggered by depressing the shutter button on the housing. press it down halfway and it turns on. the camera can focus. when the shutter is depressed fully to capture the image it turns off so you dont get any hot spots from it. It was a lot dearer than others around but worth every penny.

I use the Fisheye Fix Light HG20DX. Even on day dives I will use it for macro shots under ledges. I have it mounted on a ball adapter on teh hot shoe mount on top of my housing.

I use UK mini Q40 e'led's (two) mounted on a UCLS AC-SLQ on the top mount on my Subal.

I use them for day diving for critters under ledges and in holes, stops the 105 from 'hunting'.

For night dives I use a Hartenberger umbilical with a UCLS AD-6mm ball mounted on the head. The lamp head is then mounted in the same position as my mini Q's. the battery pack is held by elastic shock chord (Bungee) horizontaly at the bottom of the housing under the handles and the excess umbilical wire threaded in through the bungee to make it all neat. A bit bulky but actually works a treat

The Hartenberger is HID and burns for over 2 hours.

Nige.

Remember -- if you're pointing your strobes directly at your subject, your lighting technique could be improved.

Remember -- if you're pointing your strobes directly at your subject, your lighting technique could be improved.

Hi Eric,

Seems to be a few new members viewing this thread...

Maybe you would like to expand on your quote with some further ideas for those who are asking???

Bruce...

Bruce -- you're right.

Basically, you want to position your strobes so that you illuminate your subject with the edge of the light. That way, you won't light up any of the water between you and your subject (which causes backscatter).

Of course, if you are in a pristine environment with absolutely clear water, you can do whatever you want with your strobes.

Here are some useful threads:

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15844

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11579

I have some photos of good strobe positioning, but I can't get to them right now. I'm leaving for Komodo tomorrow, and I have way to much to do before then. Perhaps some other folks can chime in here, if it isn't too much off topic?

(if you want to hear more, please voice your opinion)

Thanks for these topic links Eric, they are great. I also very much liked this site:

http://www.kelpfish.net/strobe.swf

i have just added another ys 90 to my set up and will be looking to experiment in a couple of weeks. I have only used my dslr on one diving holiday at the moment and the best advice i have been given is to practice. each shot will be different from the last, so to say you must have the strobes in this or that position just isnt right. be patient and be prepared for a few deleted shots.