Noobie needing a little help with Olympus SP350

My new SP350 is on the way. Will be getting a PT030 housing soon. Anyone want to share the settings they use for clear, warm, ocean water? First try with it will be in Cozumel in a few weeks.

Anyone know Cathy Church's settings?

The only strobe I will have for this trip will be a Sealife SL960. But I will make several dives without a strobe.

Thanks for the help,

Randy

My new SP350 is on the way. Will be getting a PT030 housing soon. Anyone want to share the settings they use for clear, warm, ocean water? First try with it will be in Cozumel in a few weeks.

 

Anyone know Cathy Church's settings?

The only strobe I will have for this trip will be a Sealife SL960. But I will make several dives without a strobe.

 

Thanks for the help,

Randy

Hi Randy,

I teach scuba and uw photography in Key Largo. I am a new member of Wetpixel's forum and found your post as I browse Wetpixels on occasion. It has been helpfull to me at times, so decided to register and 'give back' to WP.

I own your camera and housing and here are my suggested settings for it ( and other tips): Whether going to Cozumel and drifting in its currents, my view is to set your camera up so you can 'grab the shot' whenever the opportunity presents itself. The following settings is what I use with that intent: ISO 100, WB 'auto' or Sunny Day ( I believe Cathy Church would reco Cloudy day) or Cloudy Day. I've used all three and any of them should get you in the 'ball park'. I've a preference for Sunny Day. If you are unsatisfied with the WB, right out of the can, you can later use 'levels' in PS or Elements to adjust.

For a shutter speed 'somewhere' around 1/100th of a second will, again, get you in the ball park. For an aperture F-8 will work for open water ambient light with strobe fill. That said, I've currently got my camera set to 1/125th and F-5.6. Again ISO for me is 100. ( don't use 'auto ISO')

I use 'auto focus' and keep the focussing rectangle in the center of my viewfinder (LCD). I lock it by half depressing and compose from there. I also use manual focus when using my WA wet lens.

I prefer to shoot in the M mode, Manual, as I have control over my exposure settings from shot to shot. Using the up, down, left, right 'keys', I can quicly adjust or exposure if I see a gross in exposure, either under or over, in my LCD after the shot.

While I have TTL capability I use manual strobe power and adjust its power settings when I see the need. Depending on your strobe, if any, start out with full power and I typically find myself lowering the power setting. Usint eh SL 960D, I'd suggest starting out at 1/3rd its power but taking a quick test shot of your buddy at depth and adjusting from there. Because I shoot in Key Largo in 35 feet of water and you will be shooting in Cozumel and likely starting in 50- 60 feet of water. Again, the point of my reply is to share with you 'start points' with respect to the SP 350's settings.

The SP 350, in my view, is an excellent choice however housed and in my view, especially for the money, wished Olympus still made it.

I've went into its menu and turned off any power consuming features to the camera. For example, I don't need to 'hear' the 'click' of the shutter closing. I use re-chargible CRV-3 batteries and have found when using those that power management is much less of an issue than using AAs.

I shoot in SHQ Jpeg as it takes too long for my patience for the camera to write a RAW file from the CCD to the type H xD memory card. The SP has no 'buffer' as do higher end and more costly dSLRs do.

I've made some other field modifications to my Olympus housing but the above are the settings I use and humbly submit. In my humble opinion, you've a good camera and one that a beginner can grow into.

I stay away from any of the scene modes and prefer manual because I know ahead of time from shot to shot what I can expect expsosure wise. If you shoot in any of the 'Larry Proof' modes or 'idiot proof' modes, you never know what the camera will decide upon underwater. My view is it may or will pick a large aperture opening, limiting your depth of field and a slower shutterspeed which can cause unwanted blur.

Hope this helps and over a beer on Memorial Day weekend,

aloha,

Larry

PS: more than a couple excellentif not premierre underwater photographers particpate on the Wetpixel Forums from time to time: Tom Stack and Stephen Frink to name just two. As well as a person very knowlegible about UW photo equipment, Ryan Canon of Reef Photo.

Hi Randy,

 

I teach scuba and uw photography in Key Largo. I am a new member of Wetpixel's forum and found your post as I browse Wetpixels on occasion. It has been helpfull to me at times, so decided to register and 'give back' to WP.

 

I own your camera and housing and here are my suggested settings for it ( and other tips): Whether going to Cozumel and drifting in its currents, my view is to set your camera up so you can 'grab the shot' whenever the opportunity presents itself. The following settings is what I use with that intent: ISO 100, WB 'auto' or Sunny Day ( I believe Cathy Church would reco Cloudy day) or Cloudy Day. I've used all three and any of them should get you in the 'ball park'. I've a preference for Sunny Day. If you are unsatisfied with the WB, right out of the can, you can later use 'levels' in PS or Elements to adjust.

 

For a shutter speed 'somewhere' around 1/100th of a second will, again, get you in the ball park. For an aperture F-8 will work for open water ambient light with strobe fill. That said, I've currently got my camera set to 1/125th and F-5.6. Again ISO for me is 100. ( don't use 'auto ISO')

 

I use 'auto focus' and keep the focussing rectangle in the center of my viewfinder (LCD). I lock it by half depressing and compose from there. I also use manual focus when using my WA wet lens.

 

I prefer to shoot in the M mode, Manual, as I have control over my exposure settings from shot to shot. Using the up, down, left, right 'keys', I can quicly adjust or exposure if I see a gross in exposure, either under or over, in my LCD after the shot.

 

While I have TTL capability I use manual strobe power and adjust its power settings when I see the need. Depending on your strobe, if any, start out with full power and I typically find myself lowering the power setting. Usint eh SL 960D, I'd suggest starting out at 1/3rd its power but taking a quick test shot of your buddy at depth and adjusting from there. Because I shoot in Key Largo in 35 feet of water and you will be shooting in Cozumel and likely starting in 50- 60 feet of water. Again, the point of my reply is to share with you 'start points' with respect to the SP 350's settings.

 

The SP 350, in my view, is an excellent choice however housed and in my view, especially for the money, wished Olympus still made it.

 

I've went into its menu and turned off any power consuming features to the camera. For example, I don't need to 'hear' the 'click' of the shutter closing. I use re-chargible CRV-3 batteries and have found when using those that power management is much less of an issue than using AAs.

 

I shoot in SHQ Jpeg as it takes too long for my patience for the camera to write a RAW file from the CCD to the type H xD memory card. The SP has no 'buffer' as do higher end and more costly dSLRs do.

 

I've made some other field modifications to my Olympus housing but the above are the settings I use and humbly submit. In my humble opinion, you've a good camera and one that a beginner can grow into.

 

I stay away from any of the scene modes and prefer manual because I know ahead of time from shot to shot what I can expect expsosure wise. If you shoot in any of the 'Larry Proof' modes or 'idiot proof' modes, you never know what the camera will decide upon underwater. My view is it may or will pick a large aperture opening, limiting your depth of field and a slower shutterspeed which can cause unwanted blur.

 

Hope this helps and over a beer on Memorial Day weekend,

aloha,

Larry

 

PS: more than a couple excellentif not premierre underwater photographers particpate on the Wetpixel Forums from time to time: Tom Stack and Stephen Frink to name just two. As well as a person very knowlegible about UW photo equipment, Ryan Canon of Reef Photo.

Larry,

Thanks so much for the help. This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

Which W/Aens do you have and where did you get it?

Camera will not be here for a few days and I hope to get to experiment with it in land mode for a while.

Any hints on where to get the oly UW housing. I have found as low as $175 and will order over the next day or 2.

Thanks again for the info,

Randy

Larry,

Thanks so much for the help. This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for.

Which W/Aens do you have and where did you get it?

Camera will not be here for a few days and I hope to get to experiment with it in land mode for a while.

Any hints on where to get the oly UW housing. I have found as low as $175 and will order over the next day or 2.

 

Thanks again for the info,

Randy

Good morning Randy and you are welcome.

At the risk of violating any board etiquette (that I'm unaware of) and come off sounding like I am 'promoting' anything, anyone or any business; here is my 2 psi's worth in answering your questions:

I bought Inon's UWL-105 AD with its adaptor from Reef Photo. I paid $189 for the housing last December and bought that locally from World of Watersports an outlet of Diver's Direct. I'd advise getting your housing as soon as possible as neither the camera nor housing are currently in production and availability may become limited.

Good shooting to you with your SP 350 and in Cozumel.

aloha,

Larry

I'm thinking of getting this camera too. What do I need to buy on top of the housing (if anything), and which housing? I don't think it makes sense for me to buy the expensive Ikelite with TTL capabilities, as when I reach that level of sophistication I probably will want to buy something for my D-SLR.

Thanks,

JD

I'm thinking of getting this camera too. What do I need to buy on top of the housing (if anything), and which housing? I don't think it makes sense for me to buy the expensive Ikelite with TTL capabilities, as when I reach that level of sophistication I probably will want to buy something for my D-SLR.

 

Thanks,

 

JD

Hello JD,

As I mentioned I only occasionally browse Wetpixels and after having responded to Randy's posts I am just now getting back to this thread and found your post. If you've already made your purchase then my reply is likely to be of little use to you.

To answer your question about what else you needed on top of the camera and housing, an external strobe is likely the next piece of equipment most obtain. With a strobe comes the means to physically marry it to your camera and a means for it to communicate with your camera.

In selecting a strobe there are many considerations but one of the key considerations is its beam angle or cone of coverage. It should meet or exceed the camera's lens angle of coverage. You mentioned already owning a dSLR and if there is a possibility that you may house it, then you'd want to select a strobe that you can use at that time. The two I have experience with and 'like' as of this writing, are Sea and Sea's YS-110 and Ikelite's DS-125. Another popular brand is Inon and if considering an Inon then find an Inon model that has comparable specifications to the S&S and Ikelite.

In my view I'd want a strobe with a beam angle wide enough to cover a wide angle lens in the event I would 'end up' using a wide angle lens. This saves me the 'necessity' of having to buy a second strobe, or, replacing the one I have with one with a wide enough beam angle. The above strobes (diffused) will do that.

Strobes and cameras are married, unless hand-held, via a camera tray and strobe arm(s) and clamps. I am real kean on those made by ULCS, Ultra Lite Control Systems. There are three ways for the camera and strobe to communicate: slaving from camera flash to strobe, a Fiber Optic array and the traditional and hard wired synchronization cord.

Randy, if you've not already obtained the SP 350 and already own a dSLR, then, in my opinion, I'd consider foregoing the purchase in favor of buying a housing and strobe for your dSLR. I say this for a number of reasons. One you are already familiar with the controls and know how to use your dSLR. A second reason is there is a distinct possibility that you will some day do this anyways. If so, again in my opinion, then save the money you'd spend on the SP system and use it to purchase the 'stuff' (smiling) you need to build your dSLR underwater camera system.

The 'level of sophistication' you speak reaching is not much greater between the SP and the dSLR ( I know you were talking in the context of TTL.... but the point of TTL is to take the 'sophistication' out of the user's sphere and alledgedly make obtaining correct exposure a 'no brainer' ). My point is, there is a learning curve in using both the SP and a dSLR and if you may end up using your dSLR, then my view is to 'start' there. Other than the difference in the cost of the housings, the other costs are roughly the same, i.e. the strobe, tray, arms, clamps and a means of communication between the camera and strobe.

Again, if you've already purchased the SP 350, congrats, it is a great little camera for the money! Hopefully, if you've not also purchased a strobe, that you'll purchase one with the idea of 'someday' being able to also use it in the event you house your dSLR.

Even given the delay in my response, I hope this helps. If not you, perhaps someone else browsing and in a similar situation.

aloha,

Larry