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Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique / Archived topic

IXUS 75 (SD750) won't trigger YS-110... help!!!!!

Started by Bardo ·

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  • 9Replies

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IXUS 75 (SD750) won't trigger YS-110... help!!!!!

9 posts
  1. Ok, I'm pulling my hair out here.

     

    I've just purchased a Sea&Sea YS-110 strobe which I was hoping to use with my Canon IXUS 75 (SD750). The strobe has two manual modes - Manual 1 and Manual 2 - which, when used in connection with the 'slave on' switch, lets the strobe trigger from a fibre optic connection on my IXUS 75. Reading through the YS manual, it seems that Manual 1 is for cameras with pre-flash and Manual 2 is for cameras without (ie. single flash).

     

    Now the problem is that although the strobe will fire when used in manual 2 mode, it looks like the strobe is firing either before or after the camera shutter is opened - ie. I just get a dark photo! Is it possible that the strobe and the camera's own flash are firing slightly out of sync?

     

    I've tried using the strobe in pre-flash mode (ie. manual 1) but it then doesn't get triggered when the IXUS' own flash fires. Now I know that all compact digital cameras do pre-flash for metering etc but is it possible that the pre-flash from the IXUS isn't recognised by the strobe?

     

    The odd thing is that I know the strobe is working fine as I used it in pre-flash mode with my old Olympus 8080WZ surface camera and they paired up perfectly - ie. the strobe fired and I had a nicely illuminated frame captured on the camera but, try as I might, I can't get the strobe to work in either manual mode with the IXUS...

     

    For your information, I'm running with camera in manual mode at ISO 80 with forced flash.

     

    Ideas anyone? (other than 'buy another camera')

    Edited by Bardo
  2. Start by taking a photo of a mirror with various flash settings. See if you can see the YS110 firing in any of them. Next, check with Sea and Sea and see how many preflashes the Ixus puts out. Maybe it's too many???

     

    James

  3. Thanks for the reply, James!

     

    Well I had quite an 'illuminating' day today (if you'll pardon the pun) which has resulted in me discovering a couple of things...

     

    1. The TTL circuitry in my YS-110 is knackered which explains why it worked very briefly and then stopped working. I tried another YS-110 in Alan James' shop today and the DS-TTL worked fine on his strobe. I then connected my strobe to a F90x in a Sea&Sea housing via a hard-wired sync cable and it refused to fire. Nett result? TTL circuitry is clearly dead...

     

    2. I managed to find a work around to my problems getting the IXUS 75 to trigger my YS-110 in manual mode. Still can't get it to work in 'manual 1' mode (ie. preflash mode) but I have managed to successfully get it to work every time in manual 2 mode (ie. basic single-flash slave mode). It's a bit of a botch but it does work. Here's how I do it...

     

    After flicking through the IXUS manual last night, I stumbled across a little known feature of the camera called 'Flash Exposure Lock' which - as you've probably already guessed - let's you override the automatic exposure setting each time you take a photo by locking the exposure to a predetermined setting. All you do is point the camera at something that's either light or dark (simplistic, eh!) and then half press the shutter button. When the camera locks the focus, hit the 'up' button (ie. the ISO setting button) and 'FEL' will be displayed on the LCD screen. Once this appears, the exposure is locked and will not change regardless of the light level.

     

    Once exposure lock is engaged, you simply press the shutter and the camera and strobe fire in sync. Now what I think is going on here is that activating exposure lock basically turns off the camera's preflash, forcing it to generate just a single flash instead of the usual two. As it's now only firing a single flash, the YS-110 is illuminated whilst the shutter is open. Naturally you'll get some pics that are over or underexposed but this can be easily fixed simply by using the 12-point power control on the strobe.

     

    Oh, and another thing I found out today...

     

    3. Alan James is a bloody helpful guy. Can't recommend him highly enough - if you're in the UK and looking to buy Sea&Sea stuff and you want to buy it from a guy that genuinely knows what he's talking about, Alan is your man...

     

    His website is http://www.marine-cameras.com/

     

    Thanks again, Alan!

  4. Wow - that is really useful information, thank you very much for posting this!

     

    I'll have to try the FEL on my camera.

     

    Cheers

    James

  5. I am really happy that I came across your message. I just bought the YS-110 and spent the weekend trying to get it to work with my Canon A710IS. Your description of your experience matched mine to a tee. I followed your recommended workaround with the exposure lock and it worked as you indicated. It is a bit of a pain though as I will have to lock the exposure for each shot. Reef life moves around pretty quickly, so this could prove to be a challenge. I am more than a little ticked off that both ReefPhoto and DiverVision did not mention this problem when I was enquiring about the right strobe for my camera.

     

    This isn't exactly what I had in mind when I bought the strobe. Does anyone know if the Inon Z-240 presents the same problem?

  6. Boy, you do learn something new every day. Thanks! Yes my SD 700 IS has the function as well. As a side note I use a Inon D2000 and have no problems whatsoever. Actually bought a second one to go on a new A 570 IS we just picked up. Hope you get it figured out.

     

    Jeff

  7. I am assuming the Z-240 would then also not have this problem. I am in the process of determining whether I can upgrade to the Z-240 with Divervision without too much of a penalty. Their return policy I suppose is standard, but they reserve the right to charge me up to 15% for the return.

  8. LR, Have you contacted Reef to see if they can replicate the problem? They have been very helpful and responsive to me in the past. I've never used or even handled a Sea & Sea strobe so I can't really comment on the exact problem you have. Both my Canon "A" and "S" models work fine with the Inon. I would think that if you plan to upgrade in the future and want the option of a electrical connection the Z240 would be the appropriate choice. The D2000's have plenty of power for my needs. I can actually place our second tray/arm and strobe on my camera for duel strobes if really needed. It has taken a year (saving money) to get to a point where we have two complete set-ups (A570IS and SD700IS) that are interchangeable (kind of a additional insurance policy).

     

    Jeff

  9. Am exchanging it for a Z-240. DiverVision indicated they have never seen this problem before (which I found strange) - I told them I found 2 other examples of the same problem. Anyway, they seem to be accomodating and think it may just be a faulty strobe.

     

    Thx for your help. With my trip only 4 weeks away (to Bonaire) I am hoping to get all of this sorted out and cross my fingers that the same thing won't happen with the Inon. Regards...

Keldan

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