Diving in Cuba

Hi, I recently read a Doubilet´s article about Cuba´s reef and I´m planning to go there in a few weeks, so I wonder if anybody has done this before and can provide any tips or advise.

Thanks.

I've been to Cayos Cocos (resort islands on the north shore east of Varadero) and Jibacoa (a little hamlet halfway Varadero and Havana). Cayos cocos has more of an exposed atlantic feel with larger fish. It's too long ago to remember the type of diving but remember regularly seeing hogfish, indigo hamlet, grouper, queen angelfish. Jibacoa, right across from the tip of Florida, has far fewer big fish but is excellent for those that like the smaller stuff. We have been back to Jibacoa for three two-week trips so I guess you know which one I prefer. Jibacoa has also a shore reef with excellent snorkeling right of the beach. Unfortunately they don't allow you to shore dive by yourself and no night diving (rumor is that they don't want boats to escape to Florida during the night).

The main dive sites on Jibacoa are either shallow 20-40ft, very near the resort, that are ok but most sites have a similar feel so it does get repetitive unless you like to hunt for gobies, blennies and the like. These are also the sites they take the less experienced divers (including resort-trained "divers") to. However, they gave us a lot of freedom to stray from the pack as long as we maintain eye contact, and if the novices ran out of air early they would take us for another 10-15 minutes.

East of the resort there are a number of deep sites, 80-110 ft, with nice underwater ranges and valleys. Fish variety, abundance and size are better here, and the landscape is more interesting. There are two more remote sites that don't get used very often. The Jibacoa river site to the west is a deep bowl at the mouth of a river with a resident barracuda population and a better chance to see big Queen angelfish. It is not really better than the other deep sites but interesting for being different. The pueorto escondidas (pardon my spelling) to the east is my favorite, although I've only been there once. It starts out at or slightly beyond 100ft and then winds its way up a coral mound followed by shallower reefs separated by sand flats. I saw at least a dozen or so species I hadn't seen before on my dozens of dives at the other sites. If you know your fish you should have no trouble spotting 50-60 different species on every dive (including snorkeling along shore). I probably had around 150 species in my best two-week trip, which I think compares favorably with many other Caribbean destinations.

A lot of the variation in fish diversity and size seem to be directly due to fishing pressure. Much of the fishing is done by free divers who go quite a distant out to sea in just a large inflated inner tube and they seem to be pretty efficient. For that reason your best bet for bigger fish is the deep sites.

My other Caribbean dives have been in Cozumel, Bonaire, and Bayahibe (Dominican Republic). Comparisons are really apples and oranges but I'd happily go back to Jibacoa and for me the main drawback is the no shore-diving policy.

Bart

Other advantages are it is easy to get to from most non-US countries, it is cheap, and the Cuban people are great.

Jibacoa sounds great, any advise on the resort or dive operator? I google jibacoa anf found a "Jibacoa Breezes Resort", but don´t know...

Felix

Definitely best diving in Cuba is at Jardines de La Reina . I had been in Cuba 5 times diving different places : Maria La Gorda , Varadero , Santa Lucia and nearby Keys , Guardalavaca and Jardines de La Reina .

Last time was 6 years ago to Jardines de la Reina , i used the only dive operator in the area Avalon ( www.avalons.net ) run by an italian guy named Pepe . We were a group of 4 and they give us a boat for ourselves for the whole week ( is some kind of old boat but works ok as a liveaboard ) .

The other option is a floating barge ( La Tortuga ) anchored on a sheltered mangrove channel .

The diving there is, simple put, as the Caribbean was 50 years ago ... totally pristine but is not an easy diving ; most of the dive sites are quite deep reefs and they don't provided nitrox at that time ( and i doubt they are doing it now ) . No population around and isolated from outside world ; nobody ( besides this operator ) is allow to go there .

As per my cubans friends (living there and working as dive masters for years ,they know all the dive sites around the island ) best other places after Jardines de la Reina are Jardines del Rey ( Archipielago Los Canarreos ) , Isla de la Juventud (both are relatively close of each other ) and some key ( that i forgot the name ) located between Cayo Coco and Santa Lucia on the north coast.

Santa Lucia used to have a great shark dive ( big bulls ) but get too touristic and crowded.

Chico ! if you need more info , let me know

Good luck

Jose Alejandro

Hi Felix,

We have indeed been staying in Breezes Jibacoa. One or two years ago another resort opened next door (Chameleon Jibacoa Villas), which is a few hundred dollar per week less. Breezes is for 16+ years of age, they have activities but it is not a "party resort". The other one, I believe attracts a younger crowd. Another advantage of Breezes is that the dive shop is on-site and they claim to have the most repeat guests of any resort in Cuba (we met some that were on their 10th trip or so). Unlike Cayos cocos, Varadero and other resort areas, Breezes Jibacoa is not in a tourist enclave and you can walk around the country side, and feel less isolated from the real Cuba.

Based on talks with a local colleague from Cuba Maria la Gorda and the Jardines de la Reina are indeed the top diving spots but harder to get to. Maria la Gorda may also have suffered from Ivan and other recent hurricanes, haven't heard any reports on that though.

I think the decision depends on whether you are looking for a hard-core dive holiday or a relaxed, affordable and easy-travel trip with good diving. Especially if you have a significant other to think about Jibacoa is a good spot to keep in mind.

Bart

PS: on our last visit in May 2005 dives were $25 each or 5 for $100. There are two boat dives per day, both in the morning.

The diving there is, simple put, as the Caribbean was 50 years ago ... totally pristine but is not an easy diving ; most of the dive sites are quite deep reefs and they don't provided nitrox at that time ( and i doubt they are doing it now ) . No population around and isolated from outside world ; nobody ( besides this operator ) is allow to go there .

 

 

Jose Alejandro

Thanks Jose, that sounds really spectacular. I'd love to check it out some time. I found two websites with some extra information that may be of interest to others

cuba-junky

wowcuba

The latter organizes dive trips all around the island, including combination trips, and drive&dive packages.

Bart

I just saw an add in a local newspaper with a 7night trip to Breezes Jibacoa for $750, and that includes the flight from Western Canada, transfers in Cuba, 4* accommodations, all meals and drinks. It is criminal that I can't take time off until Xmas

Bart