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Help with Equipment Selection

Started by Drewski ·

  • 13Posts
  • 13Replies

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Help with Equipment Selection

13 posts
  1. Hi All:

     

    I've been "lurking" on Wet Pixel for awhile as a "guest," but decided today to join because I finally made the plunge. I think this is a GREAT forum and would appreciate a little help.

     

    My interest is wreck video and photography on the Atlantic Coast of the USA and elsewhere abroad. On the advice of some friends, I purchased a Sony DCR-VX2000 camera, a Gates VX2000 housing and the Fathom SWP-35 port. The gear was used but in "good" condition and I'll be sending it off for service by a Sony technician and to Gates for testing/service. Based on what I'm interested in (wrecks down to 300 FT) I needed a housing with a "deeper" rating. I also had a budget (groan) and chose this equipment based on bang-for-buck and affordability.

     

    Needless to say, everything is DV, not HDV. Pricing for HDV is still out of my league, given what I want to be doing. Maybe in a few years...?

     

    Anyway, here's my question. My plan is to transfer videos from the camera to my laptop for editing. I have Adobe Creative Suite 3 for this, along with a home dock and larger monitor for desktop work. My concern is using the camera for transfer work. Putting more time on the heads for spinning tape, etc., probably isn't a good idea. I also don't want to drag my laptop along on smaller dive boats, so I'm thinking about a portable editor for viewing and then for transfer. Originally, I was looking at a used Sony DSR-V10, but then found out that Sony had just released the GV-HD700. As far as I can tell, the GV-HD700 plays and records BOTH DV and HDV cassettes, unless I'm reading the specs wrong...? I could also use this for HDV work if I eventually upgrade and it costs actually LESS than the older DSR-V10 (available through E-Bay).

     

    So, am I on the right path here? Any other ideas? Advice will be appreciated and respected!

     

    THANKS...

  2. You could also buy a "poor-man's deck".....a cheap camcorder.

     

    You can get a SDV Sony or Canon for under $250. You could also use it as a topside cam where the VX2000 is too big or might get damaged. On the boat is a good situation because you can also record audio for interviews and commentary if the VX2000 is already in your housing.

  3. I don't think you're misreading the specs. It definitely says both HDV and mini-DV. A 7 inch screen will be just about big enough for you to judge focus etc.. And I think the price is not bad value at all. I quite fancy one myself. Shame it's not NTSC/PAL switchable though.

     

    Having a mini deck is not a bad idea at all. I've had a mini-DV GV-D900e for 9 years. I originally bought it for it's basic editing/dubbing facilities but it's had loads of use. The buttons haven't worked for a few years, I think because the ribbon cable's bust, but I just use the remote. You see these little Sony decks in use all the time on underwater documentaries.

  4. Nick,

    Many people had problems with the HDV 900 because the buttons are spring loaded. I was lucky and did not have that problem. Fortunately, the GVD 1000, which I have had for about 4 years now and which replaced it uses a different button. I haven't had a single problem with it since I got it. However, like you, I use the remote more often than not.

    When and if you want the 700, PM me and I should be able to get you a better deal.

     

    Drewski, the Sony 2000 and Gates housing is an excellent standard definition combo. You don't say what lights you will be using but keep them in mind. While the deepest I have been was 215 ft in Australia back in the mid 80's (I was on a single 80 tank, no wetsuit or dive computer, and an old Fenzy horsecollar BC..I was also younger and somewhat stupid) the Gates housing should do 350ft without problems. I've owned about 8 different Gates housings. They are pretty much built like tanks. Speak to John or Pam at Gates and they can further reassure you. Your standard definition system will be an excellent way to get into underwater video and see if you want to take the next step up to HDV. I wouldn't rush it. Just have fun with it.

    Steve B)

  5. Nick and Steve:

     

    THANKS guys, both of you have been my inspiration in this process and I've actually read quite a few of your posts.

     

    I received the housing and lens port today and after a quick inspection repackaged and overnighted them to Gates. I spoke to Pam last week and already had an RMA number.

     

    As far as I can tell, the Fathom SWP35 lens port looks good. No scratches, good clear glass and what looks like a solid lens frame. That sucker is HEAVY too! The Gates housing, on the other hand, is more in "FAIR" condition than the "VERY GOOD" I was lead to believe, but I'm thinking it will be "fixable" by Gates. On the bright side, the housing came with both a flat and wide angle port, more than what I expected. It also came with a bunch of spare stuff. My Sony camera should be here by Wednesday and I'm also shipping that out for inspection and service.

     

    As far as lights go, I'm kind of a DiveRite guy because of my current kit and cave work. They have a 50W video light system that will boil water, but also a 24W set too. My buddy that owns a dive shop also has a large supply of old halogen systems and a bunch of other stuff, so I may try and build something on the cheap first just to play with it. One of the reasons I went with the VX 2000, however, was for the low light performance and I really hope to stick with wide angle natural light stuff first.

     

    My plan is to "train" this system during the winter in a local COLD (but CLEAR) quarry and then move offshore in the spring. My goal is to start video work on North Carolina wrecks next summer and then.... well we'll see... :)

     

    Anyway, more advice is always appreciated and I'll keep all of you updated as I move along...

     

    THANKS

    Edited by Drewski
  6. Drewski,

     

    Have you got any corrosion between the latches and the stainless steel latches and the aluminium body? That's where it's likely to occur if anywhere.

     

    First things first, you want to really tighten that thick zinc washer on the bottom of the body to give it good contact. Then you'll want to pay special attention to washing and drying around the stainless latches to reduce the chances of the aluminium going powdery.

     

    Be really careful when you're assembling. That orange o-ring can fall out easily and get trapped. We had one o-ring that must have got trapped and damaged internally at one point because it fell apart in my hands just before I assembled one time last year. A very lucky escape.

     

    And above all don't scratch your port! Those Fathom ports cost a fortune to repair.

     

    Now for customisations...

     

    1. You'll probably find that the manual white balance control drives you nuts, rotating it "blind", trying to find the right point to press. You could consider moulding a "stop" for it out of epoxy filler on top of that acrylic window at the back, and using a removable spacer to keep the rod on the left out of the way. With this customisation it's really easy to white balance regularly during the dive. You sacrific quick adjustment of shutter speed but I suggest you just leave this on 1/60 anyway (or 1/50 in PAL land).

     

    2. If you end up mounting battery pods on the bottom of the housing and need flotation, the easiest way seems to be to make floats for the top. Mine are from 10-bar glass-filled ABS tubing stuck with ABS cement. You can get uPVC tubing too but I've had one leak. The ABS ones never leaked in years. I think Gates might make some of their own now too. I mount them to the frame with stainless jubilee clips. The rig handles great.

     

    3. I've cut little notches into the rec/pause lever where my finger sits, to improve the grip. And the zoom lever I extended with a piece of an aluminium door bolt. Horrible looking job but it works great for fine fingertip control!

     

    4. I made a handle with extended bit on it out of wood. I find it helps stability of the housing when using it one-handed. Probably over the top, and again a horrible-looking job. I included this pic mainly to show you the notches in the rec/pause lever.

     

    Good luck.

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  7. Drewski,

    You've gotten off to a great start. I am sure that Gates will pressure test the housing for you, but you might want to check that it is being done. They have a fine service department and I have no problems with saying nice things about their product even if I am no longer sponsored by them and am now sponsored by Light and Motion. One trip I have always wanted to do but have yet to do is to dive the sand tigers of N. Carolina. I am mucho jealous of your 'training' dives. However, I am going back to the Cocos Islands next Aug for the 10th time....I just love that place.

    Steve B)

  8. Hi Nick and Steve:

     

    Again, thanks for responding with some valuable information.

     

    Nick, yep, unfortunately, I have some corrosion around the latches. It didn't look that bad and I'm hoping Gates can sort it out. To be on the safe side, I notified the seller that it's a potential unacceptable defect and might prompt a return if it can't be worked out. As you noted, the O-ring DID fall out, in fact the housing didn't have one when I got it, only the provided spares. I'd call the housing in "FAIR" condition, but nothing looked too bad to me given the price I paid. All of my ports came with covers and wraps and all of the glass looked in VERY good shape. THANKS for the excellent pictures of the modifications, I'm sure I'll use some or all of them with my housing as well.

     

    Steve, Gates will be pressure checking the housing and based on the way it looked probably replacing O-rings and maybe other stuff as well. I talked to Pam yesterday and she also indicated they were on again/off again because of the fires. I hope all you guys in San Diego are OK!

     

    Last weekend I was diving Cape Hatteras in North Carolina on a wreck called the Dixie Arrow. We had probably 80+ FT of viz with more than 20 sharks on the wreck, all Sand Tigers, at least 2 or 3 females at 7+ FT. As usual, they would let you SLOWLY approach them right up to about 3 FT and, as long as you don't make continual eye contact or LOUD breathing sounds, swim next to them for between 10 and 15 seconds. Even though the wreck was covered with sharks, it's amazing how I never felt afraid or threatened. I'll post some video after I take some next time I'm down there!

     

    Guys, your assistance is invaluable to me, THANKS again!

     

    Andy

  9. Andy,

    Take me next time. I've got to get there.

    Steve B)

  10. Andy, really interested to hear what Gates do/say about the corrosion. Pls let us know.

  11. Hi Guys!

     

    HOO YAA! Looks like I'm on the way!

     

    First, what a GREAT bunch of folks at Gates! They called me no less than 4 times this week to update me about stuff, without prompting from me. If their products are as good as their customer service, I'm sure I'll be HAPPY as a repeat customer for a LONG time! If anyone sees Pam at DEMA next week, buy her a beer for me and I'll take you diving if you get to the east coast! :D

     

    OK, so here's the deal. First, according to Pam they examined the SWA-35 port and found "very minor scratches, on the lens so fine you can't see them with your eyes." She also stated the coating had one "minor area of wear." She rated the port in "very good condition" and said that I would never have any problems with 99.9% of the video I would probably shoot. She did not recommend re-coating or anything else. I can certainly live with that!

     

    The housing was in "good" condition as well. The water alarm was missing (I knew this) and they will be replacing it for $167 with the "new" style. Pam also recommended I do the standard "service overhaul" for $290 which completely replaces the glands and other seals, cleans, etc. The housing also gets re-warrantied in my name for 2 years (until the next overhaul). The galvanic corrosion I mentioned turned out to be "minor" and not even a problem. Everything should be done by Tuesday and on the way back to me next week.

     

    I received the Sony VX-2000 on Wednesday night and tested it last night. As far as I can tell, everything works great. I encountered no audio fade or color washout and all the controls worked flawlessly. Steadycam was obviously working as well, LOL. The camera looks like it had very light use, the original stickers are still on the camera and the hand strap has zero wear. I was originally going to have it serviced by a video center, but now I'm thinking maybe just run a cleaning tape for the heads and see how it works in the housing? BTW, I shot some footage outside last night and even though is was practically DARK out, the camera made it look like daytime! WOW!

     

    So, stuff is moving forward. I'll probably try some pool time the first week in November. I have a North Carolina dive booked on November 17 so maybe I'll take it along just to see how BAD of video I can shoot, LOL! It's kind of late in the year for sharks, but maybe we'll get lucky!

     

    Again guys, THANKS for the help...

     

    Andy

  12. Congrats Drewski...I will see Pam next week at Dema and tell her how much you appreciated the service. Remember to bring the housing into the water without the cam on a dive before you do it for real on the wrecks.

    Steve B)

  13. Yep, Gates customer service is great.

     

    And to be honest my VX2000/Gates set up took better video than my HDV setup in every aspect except resolution. You've made a good choice.

Marelux

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