10D Strobe issue

Problem

Ok, when shooting my D60 in my UK Germany housing the strobe fires fine, when I put the 10D in the housing it does not.

However with the housing open If I put manual pressure on the top of the Camera hot shoe it will fire the strobe.

My thoughts for a resolution

1) I was thinking of trying to find a thicker hot shoe adapter. (what is the real name of this part?)

Who would sell this part?

2) If I could remove the hotshot from the camera I could bend the shoe so it seats tighter. Has anyone done this before?

What do you guys think?

I have posted some of my 10D/D60 shots on www.jaxdiver.com . The 10D shots are obviously DARK.

My Webpage

I know that people have successfully bent the edges of the hotshoe inside flashgun housing to get a good contact with a different flashgun. But it is one thing doing it with a flash housing and quiet another to do it with a camera.

Therefore if you are going to do anything do it to the hotshoe adaptor of the housing. The lack of connection may well be to do with small differences in the hotshoe adaptor and it might be worth trying a new hotshoe, which might solve the problem without any modification. I would imagine UK Germany can supply another one.

Alternatively you could cut a small bit of rubber/expanded polystyrene etc and jam this between the hotshoe adapter and the top of the housing to reproduce the your manual pressure and make it fire.

Alex

Alex,

The Hot shoe on the 10D and the D60 look identical, I suppose Canon gets around this issue by the virtue of all canon flash systems seem to have the ability to lock down the connection between the flash and the hotshoe. I was hoping I could identify the name of that locking mechanism then I could try and retro fit the housing with it. I agree the option of contacting the manufacture of the housing make sense and if it was Ike I would not hesitate but being able to communicate this issue with UK Germany would frankly be to difficult. (Based off past experiences). Don't get me wrong Uwe seems like a great guy but we have had our share of communication issues in the past.

However, I wonder if Ike could sell me the wiring harness he uses in his housings. (Ike, do you hear your phone ringing?)

I have gotten it to work by cutting a slice of a credit card , please see the picture below, this works but I wouldn't trust it on a dive.

bump

We had this problem and solved it by using a small piece of paper (business card) as a shim or if it works as an aristakluge.

Bill

I folded up paper and wedged it somewhere in the hotshoe, when I had this problem.

You could try this:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh4.sph/FrameW...SID=F56C0392600

or this:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bh4.sph/FrameW...SID=F56C0392600

Cheers

James

That is a little mor than I was looking for. I just need the part that fits in the shoe.

I purchased just the Canon hotshoe adapter from Ikelite last winter and cut the crappy one that UK-Germany ships off and soldered the Ike on. For my EOS3, this enabled full TTL with my Ikelite DS125 strobes. While this worked great for the EOS3, I think I remember seeing a post from Ike that TTL and the Canon DSLRs does not work, which is too bad because it works great with their film SLRs. The Ike hotshoe adapter has some electronics in it, while the one from UK-Germany is simply a straight through connector.

Here's the email I got from Ikelite -

==========

Yes, you can call Ikelite customer service at 317-923-4523 and order

Canon TTL unit #9155.70 ($100.00 retail). and TTL bulkhead #0310.01.

The hole in the housing must be 1/2" in diameter. You will need dual

cord #4103.2 ($160.00 retail). Also specify the cord length in the

housing from the bulkhead to the shoe

===========

I didn't use the bulkhead connector because the diameter is different than the one already on the UK Germany housing, so I soldered it on to the tail from the Nikonos bulkhead that came with the housing.

Marty