G9 TTL w/Ikelite

I'm thinking of upgrading to the Ikelite case for my G9 - primarily to be able to use the short port and a wide angle adapter, but if I do, I have to explore the TTL capability as I would certainly be paying for it in the housing price ...

If I were to buy the Ikelite case and a DS-51 with the TTL cord and I use a second optical slave strobe - my YS-27dx - would the TTL work correctly with an optical slave firing as well?

Anyone think I should buy something other than an Ikelite strobe if I get the Ikelite case? I currently have a YS-27 and a YS-15 and the OEM housing. I was thinking about getting a YS-110 and sticking with the OEM housing, but the W/A option is calling me ...

I am going diving in the cenotes in Mexico near Playa Del Carmen in June and I have some time to think on it a bit ... I really think I need wide angle to get the most out of those caverns.

Question is moot ... I bought the ikelite case with short port and w/a angle adapter ... and stuck with Sea & Sea - bought a YS-110 to be my primary strobe along with the YS-27dx.

Here's the new rig:

Whilst the Ike housing is equipped with eTTL capability I considered that fibre optics would provide a more reliable and elegant solution. That was an important part of my rationale when choosing Z-240's, not withstanding that they will transfer very well to any future camera upgrade. Oh yes, for caves, get the widest glass you can. You wont regret buying the dome unit for the UWL-100!

For what its worth, here's my rig...

Sweet ... are those focus lights underneath? How are they attached?

Can you share some pics with the W/A adapter and no dome and some with the dome to see the difference?

I bought the Ikelite w/a adapter - because B&H doesn't stock INON - and I didn't understand the dome option when I did.

I think I'll return the Ikelite glass and order the INON.

Do you take your adapters on and off underwater?

Hi Jeremy,

I designed and built a custom lamp bracket to accept 1 watt LED Aquatec lamps. The bracket also accepts an attachement point for a hand strap. I conceived the idea for night dives, in order that I wouldn't have to use a hand torch, however the underslung lamps do provide focusing light for w/a shots in low light situations, i.e. caves and caverns. At w/a focusing ranges their beams are sufficiently attenuated by the water column and spread so 'hotspots' are not apparent, though sometimes they do illuminate particulates and cause backscatter. For macro focusing I use two more diffused Aquatecs conventionally mounted as you do with your lamp. Opaque 35mm film tubs make great diffusers, cast a very even light and prevent 'hotspots' from appearing.

Its a bit of a 'faff' taking the dome unit on and off for a dive or indeed, to shoot a few comparison photos... However, I have another UWL-100 about to be delivered (which I am going to dedicate to filter photography using UR Pro optical plastic filters - UR Pros fit the UWL-100 provided you remove the rubber bumper from the lens body) and I'll do that for you just as soon a Yuzo Kanda's latest package clears customs!

BTW. If you get the INON UWL-100, make sure its the type 2.

HTH, Tim

Very impressive, indeed!

The little Nano focus light I have shuts off for 2 seconds when it senses the strobes firing so it is completely "out of the picture" at the time of capture. I have nothing to compare it to really, but it exceeded my expectations for something for which I only paid $45.

>>> The battery life seems almost endless on rechargeables

>>> It was bright enough to be my primary light on the one night dive I've done with it

>>> The auto shut-off feature is cool

I haven't really done any true w/a stuff underwater yet ... June will be my first attempt ... but I imagine the Nano just doesn't cast a wide enough or bright enough beam to help much in a wide angle situation.

Maybe the modeling light in the YS-110 will help.

Maybe I'm in for another famcy piece of gear ... maybe that's what I'll spend my Ikelite W/A refund on ...

Hmmm ...

Just a word on using modelling lights (whether on my Z-240's or your YS-110) as focusing lights.

Used as such means the strobe will be pointed directly at the subject which even in clear tropical waters will cause backscatter as the water column between the lens and subject will also be illuminated.

The solution is to light the subject with the inside edge of the strobe beam, which of course will mean the modelling lamp (and strobe) will be directed outside and beyond the subject.

Its better to use modelling lamps for macro, but they can be so bright as to cause timid subject to shrink from their glare. One tip is to diffuse them with a dab of vaseline jelly.

HTH, Tim.

I hear ya ...

Do you think I'll have auto-focus problems on W/A shots in the caverns without a bigger lamp?

Water clarity underground is usually excellent (provided nobody kicks up any silt...) so your nano will probably be fine. You may want to consider prefocusing manually and using a small aperture if the nano dosn't perform well. Of course, your buddy can always provide focusing illumination with their handheld lamp. In caves I use a pair of climbing helmet mounted Greenforce Tristars (http://www.green-force.com/) though a couple of 2 watt United Kintecs do a good job too (http://www.uwkinetics.com/catalog/category/6)

Jeremy, I received my second UWL-100 today and compared it with the UWL-100 with the dome unit fitted...

Dohhh!

It suddenly dawned on me that the angle of view of both lenses will be the same in air. The dome unit will only take effect underwater. So your comparison photos are not as easy to obtain as I first thought.

I may have a splash tomorrow and we'll see if I can shoot a comparison.