Help with D3 over exposed

I need a little advice if someone could reply. I know this is not the right place to post this but I thought I might get a better response.

I took my new D3 housing out for it's first macro dive today with terrible results. All my shots were over exposed, some more that others but definitely way over.

I set up my housed sb 800 for ittl with the camera set to center weighted. This usually gives me excellent exposer most of the time.( with my D2x ) The only time it's not right on is when the center is not hitting the subject. I also was varying the aperture and distance from my subject anywhere between 1 foot to 4 feet, using between f8 and f22.I was using my Tamron 90 mm Lens.

I checked the camera after the dive to see if I had changed the exposers compensation, but I had not. So my question would be , is their any settings I might have over looked to cause this problem ?

Thanks in advance,

Marc

I hope you dont use auto ISO by accident?

// Alex

I took my new D3 housing out for it's first macro dive today with terrible results. All my shots were over exposed, some more that others but definitely way over.

 

I checked the camera after the dive to see if I had changed the exposers compensation, but I had not. So my question would be , is their any settings I might have over looked to cause this problem ?

 

Thanks in advance,

Marc

Hello Marc. Could you post an example of what you are seeing? This might help diagnose the issue. What settings besides "center weighting" the exposure? Also, what do you have the SB800 set for?

Can you compensate for overexposure with the exposure compensation button. If so maybe it's an idiosyncrasies of the iTTL converter you are using.

I need a little advice if someone could reply. I know this is not the right place to post this but I thought I might get a better response.

 

I took my new D3 housing out for it's first macro dive today with terrible results. All my shots were over exposed, some more that others but definitely way over.

 

I set up my housed sb 800 for ittl with the camera set to center weighted. This usually gives me excellent exposer most of the time.( with my D2x ) The only time it's not right on is when the center is not hitting the subject. I also was varying the aperture and distance from my subject anywhere between 1 foot to 4 feet, using between f8 and f22.I was using my Tamron 90 mm Lens.

 

I checked the camera after the dive to see if I had changed the exposers compensation, but I had not. So my question would be , is their any settings I might have over looked to cause this problem ?

 

Thanks in advance,

Marc

Marc I have lost half my hair trying to figure out similar problems. I wonder: How whould the exposure look if you mounted the SB-800 in the hot shoe (ON DRY LAND) and took some shots. if you have the same symptoms, and you should, it might be easiset to play with the settings toll you work it out on the beach.

I am sure you have allready checked the flash exposure compensation? And that you are set up for front curtian?

Good luck and please let us know when you work it out. BTW what housing are you useing for the SB-800? I bought one of the fantasea housings, took one look at it and the ttl cord that came with it and never had the courage to take it in the water.

Hello everyone who answered my request for help. I'd first like to say this form is great for people like myself who are not as knowledgeable and can reach people like your self who care and respond, thank you

As to my problem, I have not reached a resolution yet. I have looked through all the menus of the D3 looking for something I might have over looked and have not found anything which could have caused such a over exposure problem.

To answer some of your question I looked at the EXIF information and found nothing.

Most of all the pictures were between F 11- F16, ISO was 200, metering was set to spot, gain control:0, exposure bias: 0, the Nikon flash mode: optional, TTL. The Sb 800 was set into the housing I made in TTL mode. So at this point I don't know were else I can look ?

I did read the DP review again last night about the D3 and notice that they did mention a problem with washed out images while shooting close using the SB 600. I also have had over exposed pictures using my SB 800, but could over come the problem in TTL mode by using smaller F stops.

I have looked at all my connections between the bulk head connectors and the flash and have found nothing.

The only other thing I can think of doing is restoring the camera to it's default settings, which I have done, and will try another dive this weekend.

I'll keep my fingers crossed,

Marc

I've linked a few pictures to show the problem

http://www.marcfurth.com/_DSC4392.JPG

http://www.marcfurth.com/_DSC4413.JPG

http://www.marcfurth.com/_DSC4435.JPG

http://www.marcfurth.com/_DSC4453.JPG

http://www.marcfurth.com/_DSC4464.JPG

I set up my housed sb 800 for ittl with the camera set to center weighted.

Most of all the pictures were between F 11- F16, ISO was 200, metering was set to spot...

That could be an issue right there... in spot metering isn't the camera trying to get the single sensor location being imaged to 18% gray, which with subjects that are actually darker than 18% gray (ie mid-tone) will result in overexposure of the remainder of the image.

Just a thought.

It sounds like the power of the flash is too great at that f-stop to be cut out by the TTL.

With the change from D2x to D3 you are now shooting a bit closer for the same size of image. ie shooting from 2 feet to get the same image size as 3 foot on the D2x - bigger difference on strobe power though - inverse square and all that.

I've just run some dry shots on the macro setting of my D2x and at 85mm, F16 1/30 with my SB800 I had to bump iso to 200 to get correctly exposed shots on TTL. At default iso 100 the histogram was all to the left of centre. What iso did you set D2x when shooting?

Let's see. I'm not sure how the exposure setting really relates to flash exposure. Per my instructor, Thom Hogan, the ambient exposure meter is not what controls flash exposure metering. Maybe things are different.

Other possibilities:

Check shooting on land. It's not clear in your explanation, but it sounds like the SB800 is mounted directly to the hot shoe. If you are using a cable of any sort, check if it works on land as someone suggested.

I have one body that the TTL doesn't work properly. It overexposes everything. Also try it in different flash synch mode.

Check that you aren't accidentally bracketing. I've made that stupid mistake.

Make sure you don't have flash compensation.

Maybe, check your DIY port wiring.

Also, try connecting one strobe only to your housing and shooting some land test shots (full manual: ISO 100, f/11, 1/100s, 60mm macro).

-I think, for TTL to work with two strobes: one has to be wired "master" and the other "slave" for camera/strobe communication to work correctly. (that's what the old "film" y-cables do)

-how are the housed strobes connected to the housing?

(a y-cable or two separate sync cables. If two separate sync cables, the ports have to be wired like the y-cable)

Take Care,

ChrisS

First up I'm only using one strobe, even though I can and do have two housed strobes.

When you use two strobes you hard wire the master strobe to the camera and the second is wireless. In my case I use a fiber optic cable to connect the slave to the master. This set up worked quite nicely with my D2x. I've never tried duel strobes with my D3. When I get the first one working properly I'll try two.

Yes I've checked all the connection and they are not the problem. I've done many test with and with out the use of the cable { mounted directly on the hot shoe) and have found similar over exposure problems. Seems to be some what inconsistent and give good results on different subjects. What's funny is the over exposed images are mainly white subjects. Just the opposite of what you would think you would get. .I'm very much aware of the distance I'm placing the strobe to my subject and have varied the distance so I can rule out that I'm shooting to close and the flash can't handle the close range.

I'm placing the camera in spot mode according to the instruction manual. If you use the flash in matrix mode it only balances the out put of the flash to the ambient light, it's used as a fill light. I have tried using matrix mode only with inconsistent results. mainly giving under exposed images.

Again, I restored the camera to it's default settings so I can rule out any compensation or bracketing.

The only recourse I have is calling Nikon , maybe the can shed some light on my problem.

Thanks for all your input,

Marc

Hi,

I am using similar SB-800 setup with D300 & had no problem. However,

I will be checking following if I am in your shoes;

(1) I would like to know what mode on SB-800 you were using. It maybe a strobe issue later than camera issue. I am using 'TTL' mode & stopped using 'TTL''BL' mode(which is TTL Balance mode).

(2)Pls, make sure your strobe is not in manual or full dump mode.

(3)What bulkhead connector you are using ? diy ?? Does Strobe shows you type of lens & f-stop in strobe when it is connected with camera through your housing ? and it changes when you change setup on your camera ?

(4)I will try with other SB-800 to see your SB-800( one or even both) is out of order.

Sam

Hi,

I am using similar SB-800 setup with D300 & had no problem. However,

I will be checking following if I am in your shoes;

 

(1) I would like to know what mode on SB-800 you were using. It maybe a strobe issue later than camera issue. I am using 'TTL' mode & stopped using 'TTL''BL' mode(which is TTL Balance mode).

 

(2)Pls, make sure your strobe is not in manual or full dump mode.

 

(3)What bulkhead connector you are using ? diy ?? Does Strobe shows you type of lens & f-stop in strobe when it is connected with camera through your housing ? and it changes when you change setup on your camera ?

 

(4)I will try with other SB-800 to see your SB-800( one or even both) is out of order.

 

Sam

Hi Sam,

That's a good idea, I'll tried using my second strobe and see if the strobe is the problem ?

I'm using a Aquatica bulk head connector and the strobe is in TTL mode, not full dump.

The SB 800 does show that I'm using a 90 mm lens and shows the F stop

Marc

I was reading a thread at Nikongear.com about someone else who was having the same overexposure problem you are reporting (except he wasn't a diver)

It is entirely possible that the meter in your camera is out of calibration as this fellow was commenting.

My over exposure problem has been finally resolved , this is my explanation, it may or may not be correct but it makes sense to me ?

The pre flash of the SB 800 along with the focusing distance is used to calculated the correct flash exposure with the D3. Seems that the Tamron 90 mm macro communicates the wrong distance information and tells the camera that it is farther away than it actually is. The D3 over compensates with more flash power thus over exposing.

My 5 year old Tamron is a CPU Lens and has 5 contacts points. While the newer Nikon CPU Lens have 10 contacts on the Lens. I'm not an engineer but logic would tell you theirs something missing from the older Lens. While it might not be necessary to have all these contacts as it worked great with my Fuji S2 Pro and my Nikon D2x. It seems it does matter with the D3 and does not communicate properly . This may only be an issue with my camera and Lens, I don't know that answer that. I do know the new Sigma 150 mm macro I bought works perfectly and does have ten contacts on the Lens.

I'm a happy camper now enjoying my new housing and camera.

Thanks for all the support,

Marc

My over exposure problem has been finally resolved , this is my explanation, it may or may not be correct but it makes sense to me ?

 

The pre flash of the SB 800 along with the focusing distance is used to calculated the correct flash exposure with the D3. Seems that the Tamron 90 mm macro communicates the wrong distance information and tells the camera that it is farther away than it actually is. The D3 over compensates with more flash power thus over exposing.

 

My 5 year old Tamron is a CPU Lens and has 5 contacts points. While the newer Nikon CPU Lens have 10 contacts on the Lens. I'm not an engineer but logic would tell you theirs something missing from the older Lens. While it might not be necessary to have all these contacts as it worked great with my Fuji S2 Pro and my Nikon D2x. It seems it does matter with the D3 and does not communicate properly . This may only be an issue with my camera and Lens, I don't know that answer that. I do know the new Sigma 150 mm macro I bought works perfectly and does have ten contacts on the Lens.

 

I'm a happy camper now enjoying my new housing and camera.

 

Thanks for all the support,

Marc

Marc, I wonder if you could have helped your self by dialing in some compensation? Looking at the images about -2 fstops.