D300 autofocus experiment

Ok, now for the grand experiment!

Anyobody with a D300 who has tried this please let me know. i'd rateher build on your experience than waste a Cayman vacation with bad settings.

I shoot primarly with an Af-105-VR. I agree that the 60mm is more flexible but I rarely use it. I have a D-200 in an Ikelite case and strobe. Recently I purchased a D-300 in a Seatool housing with an INON Z-240.

Question, is the D300 autofocus significently better underwater than the d200?

With my D-200 I tried to shoot "moving macro". You know those skittish little critters (SLC) that are always moving and rarely sit still for very long. My goal was to catch the SLC is an interesting pose; a particular body position that was cool or a specific action like an open mouth. I also wanted to catch the SLC against an interesting background; something that enhanced the SLC or created interesting negative space. To accomplish this I ignored the composition rules like the rule of thirds and focused on getting a focus lock on the eye of the critter when it was in the desired position. My plan was to crop later to capture a rule of thirds or other pleasing photograph.

To accomplish this I set the D200 to AF-S, priority focus, single point (center) focus and tried to hit the shutter with the SLC's eye in the focus area and the SLC in some interesting position.

With the D-300 I am trying something different:

AF-C (continuous focus), Dynamic area autofocus-3D, focustracking with lock on-OFF

Other settings:

a. Release Mode Dial (top of camera)-S one shot each shuter press IF something is in the foicus area

b.Metering (Back of camera)-Spot (rotate to counter clockwise position)

c. AF area (back of camera): Dynamic Area AF (middle selection)

d. Center weighted area (custom setting menu)-6mm

Standard settings:

e: ISO setting-200

f: ISO auto control-ON

g. ISO max sensativity-800 (would never work on the D-200)

h. Minimum shutter speed 1/60

I. Image Quality-Raw 14 bit

j. Color space-adobe

With these settings I tracked a 7 year old running around my pool. The camera would very quickly show a different focus point (The d-300 has a bunch) as I held the shutter at half press. When I liked what I saw I took the shot. It appeared that getting a focus lock was easier.

We'll see in Cayman.

Regards,

Tom

Tom,

I just got back from Little Cayman having used my D300 in an Ikelite housing for the first time. I was a D200/Ikelite user.

The autofocus was MUCH better with the D300 in my opinion. I shot AF-C, focus priority, area autofocus with 21 sensors.

My 105VR used to hunt a LOT with the D200 but though it did some hunting with the D300 it was uncommon. I often got some decent shots of what you call SLC even though I thought I did not at the time the picture was taken.

The low light focusing was great with very little hunting. Sometimes I couldn't make out much in the viewfinder but the camera would focus rapidly nevertheless.

I also had the new 60 mm macro lens and it was great and more versatile than the 105, with the limit being that I had to get a bit closer to try to get 1:1 with the 60 than the 105.

I used center weighted metering set to 6 mm.

My experience with the camera has been similar to my land experience: the best photos out of the camera I've ever gotten. I also liked having D-lighting and turning it on or off in the post processing under the Raw adjustments with Capture NX.

I now feel that I am the limiting factor by far in terms of getting good underwater photos.

My next trip I want to try the 51 area 3D autofocus. Let us know how your experiments go.

SD

One thing that would improve you focusing on SLC's is using AF-C over AF-S. You say you are tracking the critters as they swim around, and that's what continuous focus is designed for, AF-S as soon as it finds focus it locks, but by the time you've hit the shutter, the critter's moved and the camera's not refocused.

That being said the D300 focuses better topside i know, though I still shoot my D200 UW. I would not use ISO Auto, especially not with macro where you provide plenty of light with the strobes. Why would you ever want to use ISO 800?? Its just more noise.

You should also turn Focus Tracking ON as that's exactly what its designed for, tracking a subject that may not always be in the center of the frame, though I'm not sure how that setting relates directly to Dynamic Area AF which should essentially be the same. As for 3D tracking, i find it only works when the subject is very well separated against the background, but when it's cluttered, turn it off.

I would also suggest setting your release mode to C instead of S, so that you can get a couple shots in at a time to catch that right pose (as long as your strobes fire at less than full power, they should keep up for 2-3 frames). Not necessarily key, but worth trying. Cheers,

Chris

Thanks guys.

I will try some of your ideas including release to C with a short delay. For macro the Z-240 should be able to get at least 2 shots off.

Focus tracking OFF means that the camera will not wait to refocus (Page 270) It think that's right for SLC's.

I wll experiment with 3d autofocus. (page 270) The way I read it 3d means the camera will select a new focus point. Without it the camera focuses on the surrounding points. We'll see how it works.

My understanding of ISO auto is that it will shoot the default ISO (200) until it runs out of light, then it will adjust the ISO upwards. Sometimes a fair-sized critter swims by when In that case I HOPE I can click off a shot and I'll get a decent available light shot.

I'll report from Cayman.

Focus tracking OFF means that the camera will not wait to refocus (Page 270) It think that's right for SLC's.

It means the camera will not wait to refocus for "sudden large changes" in subject distance. This setting determines how long the camera will search for the subject before refocusing on a sudden distance change. So if you're tracking the SLC and another fish swims in between, ON means the camera will continue to 'expect' the focus point to be where it was before the distance suddenly changed. It will give it a second or two before refocusing on the new subject closer to the camera, if it stays there. You can override this slight delay by letting go of the shutter button for an instant, if you do wanna refocus on the new subject. Or, if the SLC suddenly swims out of frame, OFF means the camera will instantly refocus on the background, but leave it ON and you've got a second to let go of the shutter, keeping the focus distance in the same vicinity for when you reframe him - very useful IMO. It only for those sudden large changes and doesn't apply for the small movements of your subject. I leave it on normal most of the time.

As for ISO auto, how do you shoot macro? I shoot manual, usually around 1/250 @ f/16 for depth of field which is severely underexposing the ambient and ISO auto would kick in sending your ISO up to 800 for every shot. Even with TTL flash - try it at home manually underexposing & use the built in flash & it goes straight to 800 trying to help expose the ambient. I would just practice whipping the aperture thumbwheel wide open should a sudden ambient light shot present itself.

Def give 3D tracking a go, but you'll notice if the background is close to the subject or is very cluttered, 3D will just wander aimlessly. If your fish is off the reef a bit, with a nice focus separation from the background, it could work quite well. For example, I use it for shooting tennis, where the players are in white against a dark green background, nicely separated and the tracking is brilliant. I would not use it for a football (soccer) match as all the different players in the frame would confuse the system.

Hope this helps. Cheers,

Chris

Thanks Undertow-

I do not want to represent that I have ever shot the D-300 underwater. I have shot my D-200 for the last two years and I am going by that experience plus the manuals. I appreciate everyone's input.

With rig I am ONLY shooting the Af-105-VR. For wide angle I have my trusty D-200, Ike case, dual strobes, dome and 12-24.

Generally I shoot macro by setting the camera to F/20-f/22 and shutter to 1/100 to 1/125 unless I want a black background when I up the shutter to 1/250.

So far, per instructions from members here and digital diver, I will fool with Auto ISO, release mode C vs S, focus tracking OFF vs ON, and 51 point 3D tracking.

So far, per instructions from members here and digital diver, I will fool with Auto ISO, release mode C vs S, focus tracking OFF vs ON, and 51 point 3D tracking.

Don't use Auto ISO underwater unless you are shooting without strobes! It will just use the Max ISO allowable everytime.