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Photography Gear and Technique / Archived topic

Sea & Sea O-Rings

Started by verstodigital ·

  • 6Posts
  • 6Replies

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Sea & Sea O-Rings

6 posts
  1. Does anyone have a general rule regarding Sea & Sea O-Rings lifetime. I bought a DX70 two years ago and in that time I have used it on about 40 dives. I'm am very attentive regarding maintenance of the good old o-ring and when in storage, the o-ring is heavily greased and sealed along with the housing case. My port o-rings are always removed, over greased and placed in an airtight zip lock back. In general, I check the o-rings closely, they are not stretched and they as greasy as the day that I bought them.

     

    So while reading a Sea & Sea manual I noticed that they advise that their o-rings need replacing every year. Is this based on use every day of the year - is it based on the kit sitting in a box sealed shut for the last two years. I know it it based on common sense but if your kit has not been used that much and it is over a couple years old is there any other reason why you should have to renew the o-rings.

     

    As it happens I have spares but they are pretty costly to replace - so, is this a Sea & Sea protection clause or another way to make money? or are the simply giving good advice. (slightly skeptical after a TTL converter flood for no apparent reason).

     

    Another thing that I have always wanted to know - just how much silicone is enough? I have found that different people have different methods. I grease the o-ring - place into the o-ring grove in the housing and then put a fine coat around the o-ring using my finger before sealing the housing shut (no clumps mind :D ).

     

    So - a pretty uninteresting topic but if you could give me your advice and comments I would really appreciate it. I am sure there are others out there that would be also interested in your comments..

     

    All the best

  2. Avoid that "A little is good so more must be better" syndrome.

     

    If an O-ring has to move (as with a port that rotates to lock it in place) an O-ring needs about the same amount of grease as a condom. ie. just enough to allow it to slip comfortably.

    If an O-ring is simply compressed (as with the two halves of a clam shell housing) it probably needs no grease at all.

     

    If an O-ring is clean and has no defects (cracks or cuts) it's good to go.

    Edited by John Bantin
  3. Avoid that "A little is good so more must be better" syndrome.

     

    If an O-ring has to move (as with a port that rotates to lock it in place) an O-ring needs about the same amount of grease as a condom. ie. just enough to allow it to slip comfortably.

     

     

    you do make me laugh john.

  4. Avoid that "A little is good so more must be better" syndrome.

     

    If an O-ring has to move (as with a port that rotates to lock it in place) an O-ring needs about the same amount of grease as a condom. ie. just enough to allow it to slip comfortably.

    If an O-ring is simply compressed (as with the two halves of a clam shell housing) it probably needs no grease at all.

     

    If an O-ring is clean and has no defects (cracks or cuts) it's good to go.

    cool - thanks for the info. - I have never tried silicone on me condom - i try that :D

  5. someone posted this cool link to Sea and sea Japan. Theres a lil vid clip in the "Care" segment that shows him lubing the o-ring :D I thought it was a very good beggining tutorial.

     

    http://www.seaandsea.jp/compact/index.html

  6. Remember that your housing flexes/compresses as you change depth, and therefore, the o-ring compresses further with depth. So even a "clam shell" o-ring compressed between two shells moves a little as the back of the housing further compresses the o-ring with pressure. The silicone allows this movement to happen; this is why you should lightly grease the entire oring, not just the top once the oring is in the groove.

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