I would be a little concerned about image quality loss with a close-up lens that is held in place with glue rather than the precision of the regular threaded mount. I would be concerned that the close-up lens is not precisely centered. And if it is not, that images made with the combo might in fact lose so much sharpness that you would be better off shooting at 1:1 and using photoshop to crop the image and interpolate pixels to the size of the combo.
Have you shot test shots, perhaps on land initially, to see if there is any difference?
Fred
Fred,
No I haven't done any test shots on land. Perhaps the Tacketts have as they have stated in their book that if the diopter doesn't fit in the port - remove the black ring and attach with blu tak. Or perhaps Ryan Canon, who suggested it to me, has tested this. Or perhaps Alex has an idea on this.
It is a significant problem if you want to use a diopter with the 105vr lens if you purchased Subal's dedicated port...... With the 105vr lens and screwing on the Nikon 5T or 6T If you just use an additional 15mm ex ring the lens can easily be skewed off center and fail to operate (happened to me) and of course you lose manual focus (the whole idea behind the port). Also Ryan Canon told me he would be concerned using the Subal dedicated 105vr port with extension rings as without the MF knob lined up the lens is not held and supported in the port like it should be.
You know the Nikon 5T/6T are not precision made to go with the 105vr lens so I don't really know how much difference there is in actuality between attaching with blu tak and using the screw on option. I did notice it was difficult to tell (at least with the 5T) - with the black ring removed - exactly which side faces out as there is not a lot of noticeable curvature, at least with the 5T and I may have goofed up there possibly
Some of my shots suffered from some lack of sharpness but that is because I was experimenting with slow shutter speed and shallower DOF to produce nice bright and softer backgrounds (especially because Blue Heron Bridge doesn't typically have much in the way of nice background opportunities.......
); I also tried to use the shallow DOF (in conjunction to slower shutters where appropriate), to minimize particles that pass by in the tidal flow there and home in on specific parts of the creature. I failed sometimes, but I think it was due to using apertures less than 16 in conjunction with the 105vr and the 5T attached with blu tak. I don't really think the 105vr alone would have been that much sharper alone (without the diopter w/blu tak) given similar settings and then of course cropping an image/interpolation as you proposed softens it a bit also and of course you can't get quite as close to the subject u/w which is the reason for the diopter with the 105vr (as I think the average min subject distance with that lens is about 11" w/o diopter and that's a little far in less than perfect, close macro conditions). But I certainly could be wrong?
Also I'm a very conservative "sharpener" in Lightroom or PS and I should probably sharpen my images more - but I tend to err on too little sharpening. I use no in camera sharpening in my Nikon d200 so that might actually make more of a difference than if the diopter is attached with a black ring or blu tak if one is honing in on sharpness of the macro image?? Lots of variables?
Again possibly someone with more experience with the diopters and attaching them, the dedicated Subal 105vr port, etc has more data on the best way to go about it and if sharpness is lost because of a diopter attached with blu tak or if that is not a significant issue.
Thanks for the info, Carol 