Camera buoyancy problems - G9 in Patima Housing

Hi,

I just purchased a Patima housing for my Canon G9 with twin ys-110 strobes. I haven't use it yet, but outside of the water it seems pretty heavy (about 13 lbs with Inon WA and Dome). Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make it more buoyant in saltwater?

Remember that the submerged weight will be somewhat less. My Ike housed G9, ULCS arms and pair of strobes feels massive topside but its a pussycat underwater...

There are various ways to reduce negative buoyancy. The most common method is to use buoyant strobe arms from manufactuers like ULCS and Stix. Another way is to clad the stobe in a buoyant material like a neoprene sleeve. This has the disadvantage of compressing at depth so it only has an effect in relatively shallow water.

These techniques may not add 'lift' but will reduce weight and contribute to an advantageously lowered centre of gravity.

It would also be possibe to incorporate a buoyant 'cell' fixed under the tray, perhaps made from a suitable length of sealed plastic waste pipe, though it would tend to raise the C of G and may have a tendancy to make the camera invert.

HTH, Tim

Hi,

I just purchased a Patima housing for my Canon G9 with twin ys-110 strobes. I haven't use it yet, but outside of the water it seems pretty heavy (about 13 lbs with Inon WA and Dome). Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make it more buoyant in saltwater?

Juan, I just weighed my setup, which includes the G9, Patima Housing, Dual Z-240 Strobes, Ultralite Arms, UWL-100 Lens and it weighed out at 14.6 pounds.

What I did was to add a couple of StiX Large Floats to each side of my ULCS Arms, and it has made an enourmous difference. these floats are made of solidified foam, so they do not appear to compress at all at depth. I'm acutally going to add a couple more (one to each side), because, even though I don't want my camera to be completely neutral, I do feel as though I need just a bit more floatation.

The StiX floats are inexpensive. I think I paid $25 for the four pack, which is what I currently have on my camers, a total of four pieces (2 on each side). The ones I bought are specifically made for the ULCS Arms, but they may make something for the Sea Arms VII's you use.

Here's where I bought mine:

http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=p...roducts_id=2320

Here's a picture of what my setup looks like with the floatation aides.

Adrian

I would think that just those 4 Stix floats would be enough to make your rig pretty neutral. Hard to tell until you actually put it in water. Try it in the bathtub just to get an idea...

I would think that just those 4 Stix floats would be enough to make your rig pretty neutral. Hard to tell until you actually put it in water. Try it in the bathtub just to get an idea...

Not exactly sure if you were referring your comment towards me, but I have taken it underwater and it still is negative, especially when I add my BigBlue Focus Light to the top of the housing, which I often do on night dives or on dives where I think I may be going into a wreck because I also use it as a primary light. I'm pretty sure that one additional float on each arm will do the trick, however, it may overdo it, so I may have to alter the size of the float or come up with an alternate solution.

BTW, I haven't weighed the focus light, but the specs indicate it weighs approximately 450g in air and 120g in water, so it does contribute to the setups negative buoyancy. Here's the light I use.

http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=p...roducts_id=2814

Thanks, I will try your recommendations tomorrow in the water, and I'll post back on the results.

Remember that the submerged weight will be somewhat less. My Ike housed G9, ULCS arms and pair of strobes feels massive topside but its a pussycat underwater...

 

There are various ways to reduce negative buoyancy. The most common method is to use buoyant strobe arms from manufactuers like ULCS and Stix. Another way is to clad the stobe in a buoyant material like a neoprene sleeve. This has the disadvantage of compressing at depth so it only has an effect in relatively shallow water.

 

These techniques may not add 'lift' but will reduce weight and contribute to an advantageously lowered centre of gravity.

 

It would also be possibe to incorporate a buoyant 'cell' fixed under the tray, perhaps made from a suitable length of sealed plastic waste pipe, though it would tend to raise the C of G and may have a tendancy to make the camera invert.

 

HTH, Tim

Thanks all for the suggestions. I bought some foam pads made to protect coper pipes and was able to easily cover the arms of the housing. I will try it tomorrow, my fear is that they will compress with little pressure. If it does not work I will try and buy what SFL suggest with the Stix float arms. I will keep you posted on my results.

Not exactly sure if you were referring your comment towards me, but I have taken it underwater and it still is negative, especially when I add my BigBlue Focus Light to the top of the housing, which I often do on night dives or on dives where I think I may be going into a wreck because I also use it as a primary light. I'm pretty sure that one additional float on each arm will do the trick, however, it may overdo it, so I may have to alter the size of the float or come up with an alternate solution.

 

BTW, I haven't weighed the focus light, but the specs indicate it weighs approximately 450g in air and 120g in water, so it does contribute to the setups negative buoyancy. Here's the light I use.

 

http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=p...roducts_id=2814

Yesterday I bought some foam pads made to cover and protect copper pipelines. I easily managed to cover the Sea Arms with them. I just need to get them wet and try them out. If it does not work I will try what SFL recommended, as those Stix floats have good reviews. I'll keep you posted of my results. Thanks for your recommendations.

Not exactly sure if you were referring your comment towards me, but I have taken it underwater and it still is negative, especially when I add my BigBlue Focus Light to the top of the housing, which I often do on night dives or on dives where I think I may be going into a wreck because I also use it as a primary light. I'm pretty sure that one additional float on each arm will do the trick, however, it may overdo it, so I may have to alter the size of the float or come up with an alternate solution.

 

BTW, I haven't weighed the focus light, but the specs indicate it weighs approximately 450g in air and 120g in water, so it does contribute to the setups negative buoyancy. Here's the light I use.

 

http://reefphoto.com/index.php?main_page=p...roducts_id=2814

Hi,

Ask your Patima dealer to find Patima 'float bag' that designed with their housings in mind. Hundreds of Patima P&S housing users uses this Camera BC bag but, only few of them are used here in Wetpixel as it was not properly sold in US.

Sam

Keep in mind that as you add more frontal area to your camera system the more drag you create, making it harder to push the rig thru the water, especially in a current. Nothing is free. There's always trade offs to consider.

Sam - how much did the Inon view finder effect your buoyancy & trim?

Hi,

I just purchased a Patima housing for my Canon G9 with twin ys-110 strobes. I haven't use it yet, but outside of the water it seems pretty heavy (about 13 lbs with Inon WA and Dome). Does anyone have any suggestions on how to make it more buoyant in saltwater?

Hello,

Looking at buying the Canon G9 and Patima... is the housing really 1.75 KG ? Has anyone actually weighed it? I mean its aluminium and as a big hole in the middle of it for the camera and still weighs more than 1.5 litres of water? 1.75 litres in fact if the manual is to be believed. is this correct?

Anyone got some good scales to weigh it? How much does the massive Ikelite housing for it weigh also?

Much appreciate the help.

James