Indo-trauma: The Plight of the Balinese
By Bob Whorton: Bali May/June, 2003.
Someone raised the question “is it safe to travel back to Bali?”
Well, these are my own personal views and findings after another extensive trip to fulfil several commissions of marine, wildlife and scenic photography around South Eastern Indonesia: Together with an information gathering exercise about tourism operations from Bali to Komodo National Park in the east. It was not difficult for a journalist like me to notice the human side of the equation and how recent events had affected people personally. These are just a few of those findings personal and otherwise, which portrays a bigger picture of this tourist island paradise, and the problems faced by its common people... I found it very difficult to walk away without feeling sympathetic.
A day of tears
Before the 12th October 2002 it would have been hard to envisage the far reaching implications that a carefully premeditated terrorist bomb attack in a popular tourist area might have on an almost 80% tourism based economy such as that of Bali, the jewel of Indonesia... An event that was to shock and surprise the whole world and bring about a devastating blow to a race of God fearing people who were in fact as shocked and as ambiguous as the rest of us. Like 9/11, this “Day of tears” would become chronicled as a further historical reference to extreme causes, categorised into the common term “Terrorism”.
The deaths and the ongoing suffering of the families of people lost in the bombings have only furthered the cause of hatred for terrorists globally with their twisted religious beliefs that defy the understanding of even those they supposedly represent. My own personal thoughts were affected in much the same way...
Red Light
For hundreds of years this magical country; a shrine to the Hindu religion and its deities, has fascinated visitors from all over the world. Due to the ever growing stream of visitors a major part of the countries assets were invested into tourism, as well as major foreign investments in hotels and infrastructure. The effect of the bomb was instant – Tourism stopped almost overnight as global foreign offices almost forcibly removed its patriots within days of the incident and slapped it on the “NO GO” listings. The British Foreign office went further by requesting that tour operators removed Bali from their brochures immediately. Insurance companies stopped cover, airlines withdrew flights and prepaid bookings were cancelled.
Without tourism and export potential Bali ground to a complete halt. Even the most determined of travellers could not reach Bali. The empty beaches seen on TV summed it up.
Just 9 months later, the individual Balinese people are suffering greatly, almost reaching the point of desperation as tourism has dropped by over 90%. This had the effect of undermining almost every aspect of their financial wellbeing and personal pride, to the point of turning legitimate traders into hawkers & beggars.
Irony?
Surprisingly this no-go tourist embargo is still in force and the pressure is still on the operators to prevent British & Australian tourists visiting Bali. The impetus may have been complicated by the SARS epidemic in Hong Kong, but maybe just another excuse to justify an embargo, but the facts outweigh the paranoia – few if any reported cases in Indonesia.
I cannot help feeling a certain irony when the question of embargoes is raised due to terrorist attacks... Immediately after the 9/11 attacks, understandably no-one wanted to fly to the USA. The British government were then seen to actively encourage British people to go there, to offer support with our tourist pound, even though more threats of bombings had been received by the security services.
So, why not the same deal for Bali and Indonesia?
The bombing instigators are now in custody after all, and undergoing trial in Bali’s capital, Denpasar.
Security
Certain complacency exists in all security services until something adds a shock to the system; Indonesia was no exception, especially for contraband. However, since the internal problems in Java, and the bomb in Bali things have changed for the better. In just nine months since my last visit to Indonesia security is noticeably more strict, probably more so than most western airports. Added to this the security at sea ports too has been tightened up to the same level, to help stem the movement of terrorists and terrorist supplies from one major island to the next. Incidentally, it was at two of these ports in Java that two of the Bali-Bomber’s were arrested.
With the additions of extra x-ray screening and physical searching of luggage it is less likely that terrorists can walk in and out of Indonesia without compromising themselves and once there by other means internal security services are operating very tight surveillance in and around tourist destinations.
This was more than evident during my May/June visit to Bali whilst visiting the main tourist areas in Kuta and Sanur districts - A very visible police presence was apparent. This is not just to put minds at rest but to send out a clear signal that the Indonesian authorities are working hard to curb future acts of terrorism, and any further threats will not be taken lightly. The capital Denpasar itself is literally crawling with police, security services and military personnel marking the beginning of the terrorist bomb trials.
Hotels too, have stepped up internal security with extra security personnel as a further commitment to their valuable client base and a hope that this commitment will promote confidence and start to bring them back in greater numbers.
The reality - Ground zero
The Kuta district located in the south of the main island is no longer the bustling centre of tourism it was less than a year ago, in the extensive markets business was very slow and not enough to share amongst the many trading booths. Offering wares for almost nothing, which included a vest with a very bold statement addressed at terrorists (See photo).
The town was not completely void of visitors – British, Asian, Dutch Spanish and surprisingly Australian visitors too, but not in any great numbers. Restaurants in the town have to tout for business and offer reductions on their menus. Within several minutes of walking around Kuta’s streets, the tourist recession became obvious... Once thriving businesses were closed and empty, a trend that will catch on if things cannot change for the better.
The saddest part for me was meeting an old lady carrying two tiny children; her words to me summed it up “Please sir, we are hungry...”
Memorial
The effect of the explosion destroyed both sides of the busy street; all that remains today are empty lots. The site where the people died has been cleared and has a simple green wrought iron fence along the roadside that will be the boundary for a memorial garden dedicated to the people who died. A small makeshift shrine stands as a poignant reminder to the right hand side; decked in photos, messages and traditional daily floral offerings made by the local people.
Understandably, an obvious sorrow for the losses and an outward anger persists within the Balinese I spoke to. Why someone would want to do such a thing is beyond their understanding... “These were just innocent people wanting a good time” said the vendor in an adjacent shop. Even a group of the younger members of society stopped to look and lay small posies at the shrine. These feelings are not localised – They are shared the length and breadth of Bali.
