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Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique / Archived topic

Which Fisheye FIX Light?

Started by ralphy ·

  • 14Posts
  • 14Replies

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Which Fisheye FIX Light?

14 posts
  1. I'm looking to get a focussing light for my D300 & am impressed with all the positive reports here on Wetpixel for the Fisheye Fix Light.

     

    However, I'd like thoughts or comments between the LED48DX and the HG20DX. From what I can see, the LED version:

     

    uses AA batteries (more flexible than a dedicated battery),

    runs for a lot longer (a factor of x40 has been quoted!) than the HG,

    and is half the price (always good for a tight-wad like me!)

     

    So based on this, the LED version looks like a better overall choice - but am I missing something? ;)

     

    Ralphy

    Edited by ralphy
  2. The most different property is the length of the beam, its totally different light

  3. The LED version puts out a lot less light. It is also a lot colder so it's harder to see because it matches ambient better. I feel people who say it's not strong are being tricked into thinking that by the color.

     

    The halogen is wider and brighter. It's enough so that you can set and forget it. The LED takes occasional aiming in my experience, but that depends on how you set it up. I consider the LED adequate but not luxurious like the halogen. It will never burn out a bulb nor require special batteries, chargers and trays.

     

    I'm looking at the BigBlue triple LED focus light. It's really big and ugly-ish but it's made like a tank and has a nice, magnetic switch. It's way more powerful than the Fisheye LED and also takes AA batteries. Not perfect but the best LED focus light yet.

  4. Craig,

     

    Do you think the LED will be adequate for Lembeh Straits with a Nikkor 70-180 macro lens?? I have both, but hate having to remember to change the battery on the HID after every dive.

     

    thanks, Elmer

  5. I used the LED version with the 70-180 and it is adequate. Make sure you get the light out close to the front of the lens.

  6. I used the LED version with the 70-180 and it is adequate. Make sure you get the light out close to the front of the lens.

     

    I'm feeling that 'adequate' is going to be acceptable to me, given the price differential!

     

    Unless of course, someone is looking to sell a used HG20DX............

     

    R

  7. The halogen is stronger and is easier to see because it's redder. It's also wider which makes it trivial to aim.

     

    The LED works. I see a lot of people set their light high and back. That adds a foot of water path that causes you to lose brightness. Set the light as close to the port glass as you can and parallel to the lens. That minimizes the need to adjust aiming and maximizes the brightness you get. There is no problem with the light's strength when you do that.

     

    I would buy the LED light if it were the same price as the halogen. I prefer the AA batteries, the durability, and the 2 days of burn time. I time my light on when I hit the water and off when I leave. It never runs out.

  8. I'm also trying to figure whether I should purchase the LED or halogen version. I heard from a buddy of mine that that he's experienced problems on the LED version with creatures sensitive to LED light.

     

    Is the narrower beam on the LED a big deal? I have a Nikon D80 + 60mm macro lens. For those of you who have the same equipment what would you recommend? I am tempted by the long battery time and more economical price tag.

  9. I use the LED version and haven't had any problems (with the light itself or creatures being sensitive to it). I've heard a couple people comment that the light isn't strong enough but I've found it more than bright enough to never have a focus problem. I've had a couple dive bubbies inadvertently look into the light and they attest that it is indeed very bright! I even use it as my primary light at night.

     

    Long burn time and using AA's is just a plus.

  10. I use the LED version and haven't had any problems (with the light itself or creatures being sensitive to it).

     

    Same story for me. I use the LED version and actually like to turn it down for night dives. Sure didn't need full power for the Canon to focus with either the 60mm or the 100mm. I also put the red filter on for night dives and critters were not affected as far as I could tell. Granted the only time I used the filter was in Bonaire with it's great vis. Biggest reason I went with the LED was the bulb life. 50,000 hrs for the LED, Halogen maybe 20 hrs. Both are great lights, but if you go with the Halogen remember to bring some spare bulbs.

    Good luck,

    Steve

  11. Same story for me. I use the LED version and actually like to turn it down for night dives. Sure didn't need full power for the Canon to focus with either the 60mm or the 100mm. I also put the red filter on for night dives and critters were not affected as far as I could tell. Granted the only time I used the filter was in Bonaire with it's great vis. Biggest reason I went with the LED was the bulb life. 50,000 hrs for the LED, Halogen maybe 20 hrs. Both are great lights, but if you go with the Halogen remember to bring some spare bulbs.

    Good luck,

    Steve

     

    I bought the Halogen version in 2005 (before the LED was available) - and I'm still on my first bulb (hope this doesn't jynx me : ). I/ve completed 3 trips to Lembeh/Raja Ampat, plus Hawaii, and the Flower Gardens - so around 175 dives on 1 bulb - I use it on all dives except WA (less than 10% of what I shoot). I do agree, a light that runs on AA's is really nice vs carrying additional batteries/chargers. I love night dives, and use the fix light as my primary light (just carry a backup in my BC if it should die). The variable power is awesome - and on 1/2 to 1/4 power (which is usually plenty) - it will run a couple hours between charges. Full power forget it - about 35 minutes and the battery is gone. I like the color better than the LED's, plus the wide beam - but that is just personal preference.

  12. I'm still on my first bulb (hope this doesn't jynx me : ).

    The variable power is awesome - and on 1/2 to 1/4 power (which is usually plenty) - it will run a couple hours between charges. Full power forget it -

     

    Hope you have a spare bulb, you've for sure going to need it now. :P I wonder if the fact that you use the light on lower power most of the time explains the longer bulb life than others are seeing? Congrats on the images from your last trip by the way the juvi angel is killer.

    Cheers,

    Steve

  13. I suspect most people who use the halogen version turn the power down often. Bulb life is greatly effected by shock and vibe so travel and stresses on the bulb from the socket can cause premature failure. I think many underwater halogen bulbs fail for reasons other than burnout.

     

    One of the things I don't like about the halogen version is that you generally need to dim it. A halogen bulb works through the halogen cycle and the halogen cycle requires sufficient temperature to redeposit metal on the filament. When a halogen bulb is dimmed, the cycle doesn't work and the bulb can burn out prematurely. Of course, if the temperatures are low enough the bulb will last anyway and bulbs fail for other reasons as I said earlier. Still, when a halogen bulb is dimmed, its efficiency plummets. I would rather run the halogen version of the light with a 1/2 wattage bulb and dim it less because battery life AND bulb life will be improved with the same light output. Lower wattage bulbs and narrower reflectors can be installed in the light; Fisheye doesn't supply them but Ryan can. The LED version doesn't suffer reduced performance with dimming.

  14. I've got the LED version and really like it. Especially being able to use the same AAs I use in my Inons. Only one charger to worry about. I used it happily at Lembeh a few weeks ago. It picked up that pygmy seahorse nicely :offtopic: As others have said, battery life is excellent - 4 dive days are no problem at all.

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