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Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique / Archived topic

D300 and Ikelite strobe problems

Started by Amazz ·

  • 8Posts
  • 8Replies

Read-only discussion

D300 and Ikelite strobe problems

8 posts
  1. I have two DS125 strobes that are new enough to support ttl. My old Ike housing for the D70 didn't have the ttl circuitry so I always used them manually. Now I have the D300 and just got a Sea and Sea housing. I went with the two single Ike cords that go from the Sea and Sea housing to Ike strobes. I opted not to get the ttl converter. My camera shutter will not work when I turn the strobes on. I get the error message on the camera "optional flash unit that does not support i-TTL flash control attached and set to TTL. Solution: Change flash mode setting on optional flash unit (page 360) The camera will work if I turn the strobes off.

     

    I found the above on page 390 in the D300 manual.

     

    Is there a camera setting I need to change?

    Did I get the wrong cords? I got Ike 4104.6.

    Am I required to get the converter to make the strobes work?

     

    The strobes worked with my D300 Ike housing (while I briefly owned it) and old cords. I did not use the ttl circuitry with it, and operated the strobes manually.

    Thanks,

     

    Angie

  2. Hi Angie,

     

    Try taping (electricians plastic tape) all the pins in the camera's hotshoe on top of the camera.

    Cut a small hole in the tape so that the middle pin (trigger) in the hotshoe is able to make contact with

    the hotshoe adapter. This will only allow the trigger and earth to message the strobes and elimminate

    the confusing TTL signals.

    I am not 100% sure, but you may have to use a dual sync cable. It depends on how the housing is wired.

    But anyway, if you tape the hotshoe, you will be able to fire the strobes in manual...

     

    HTH,

    Bruce...

  3. Hi Angie,

     

    Try taping (electricians plastic tape) all the pins in the camera's hotshoe on top of the camera.

    Cut a small hole in the tape so that the middle pin (trigger) in the hotshoe is able to make contact with

    the hotshoe adapter. This will only allow the trigger and earth to message the strobes and elimminate

    the confusing TTL signals.

    I am not 100% sure, but you may have to use a dual sync cable. It depends on how the housing is wired.

    But anyway, if you tape the hotshoe, you will be able to fire the strobes in manual...

     

    HTH,

    Bruce...

     

     

    Sea and Sea has insulating plates that need to be inserted in the red TTL bulkhead of the MDX-D300 housing.

    I just purchased the same housing and they came with it. They are VERY small, need to be inserted very carefully and cover 2 of the 5 pins within the TTL bulkhead.

    Gary

  4. Sea and Sea has insulating plates that need to be inserted in the red TTL bulkhead of the MDX-D300 housing.

    I just purchased the same housing and they came with it. They are VERY small, need to be inserted very carefully and cover 2 of the 5 pins within the TTL bulkhead.

    Gary

     

    I knew that Inon made those little plugs a while back and I think, from memory, that Carol Grant, or someone else, was also asking about the S&S plugs.

    In any event, the plugs do the same thing as taping the caera's hotshoe, and can't fall out of the bulkhead when not being used...

    Bruce...

  5. Thanks everyone. You guys are quick. I have the insulating plate on the way as we speak!

  6. When in doubt with iTTL see if it works with only one strobe. And that the strobe is attached to the primary synch sockett if there is one.

  7. are you using a cable with blue shrink wrap on it? you need this for i-ttl.

  8. Are you using both the syn cord sockets on the MDX-300? If the red socket is used without a ttl convertor, the camera will not fire. In the absence of a ttl converter, use the other socket only and fire the 2nd strobe on slave.

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