The very best Focus light?

Hi,

It's time for me to stop messing around with so so good focus lights (miniC with fisheye diffusor, frogman with diffusor etc) and open the wallet wide open and get a really good one once and for all. I do most of my diving in dark murky waters and shoot macro alot so the focus light is essential (even though the D300 is better than any previous camera at finding focus in low light).

I've been using multiple (2) focus light with diffusors at the same time to get as wide beam as possible but it's not really a good solution.

As far as I can tell the Fisheye HG20DX Focus Light is the best there is. Extremely wide (90 degrees), very stong, variable light output and very smooth (no hotspots etc). But, it's quite old now and doesn't use LED (and doesn't use AA). It wouldn't hurt if the batteries would last a little longer either.

So, I just wonder if there is a new kid on the block or if the HG20DX still rules.

Thanks,

Peter

Have a look at the LED version here:

http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/dema-2008-f...with-interview/

Alex

Hey Peter

I use the LED version that is powered by AAs. I really like it. Good coverage and does the job for my Nikon D300. The advantages of being able to use AAs are obvious: easy to obtain, same batteries as my Inon strobes - one less charger to pack.

Have a look at the LED version here:

http://wetpixel.com/i.php/full/dema-2008-f...with-interview/

 

Alex

Oh, there is a new one!! Got to check that one out!!!

Thanks for the tip!

/Peter

The older LED version works, uses AA batteries and lasts forever without recharging. It's a bit short on light output and beam width but managable.

I have this LED light. It's much stronger and wider than the FIX LED and still uses AA batteries. Charges don't last as long, it only has 2 power settings, and it is bigger and heavier. It's nicely made but the battery holder is a bit strange inside. You can operate it ham-handed which is a plus for cold water.

The new FIX LED has ungodly brightness. I'm assuming it can't use AA batteries so you have to decide whether the custom batteries are worth it. It's lighter than the BigBlue and has variable output. Not sure whether I'd like the better light control or the AA batteries. I like the older LED light but I wished it had double the light. This one delivers that (and far more) at the cost of the custom battery.

Hi Craig,

Thanks for the info. I was not aware of the BigBlue. It's a pity it's not included in the great focus light test that Ryan did:

http://www.reefphoto.com/frame.gen.php?content=focus.summary

Note the sad result of the Nocturnal SLX LED Focus Light (especially with diffuser!).

A year ago I would not have hesitated to go for the BigBlue and it seems like a good choice for many people, but now my priorities are to get the very best light. I seldom travel long distance with a focus light, as my long distance travels mostly goes to bright and clear tropical waters where a focus light seldom is needed (except for night dives but then I can live with using a so so good light then). The tip top focus light is needed for the very hard photo conditions at the Swedish west coast where I do most of my diving.

I can't find any info about the LED1000DX at fisheye or ryan or elsewhere!

Is it only a prototype?

Have you actually tested the LED1000DX?

Did you see it at DEMA?

Is it as good (not only as bright, but as wide and as smooth) as the excellent HG20DX?

I understand that the LED1000DX is better than the LED48DX, but what are the benefits against the HG20DX?

Battery time?

Price?

Temperature?

BTW, why does everybody want a very cold/blue color? I thought the best thing was to get something that matches the color of my flashes?

Or does most people want something that matches the natural background color of the water/surroundings? Well in Sweden that would be green! ;-)

/Peter

The LED1000DX is new. I wasn't at DEMA so I don't know any details. I would speculate the following:

The primary advantages of the BigBlue over the LED1000DX are: durability, AA batteries, and cold water operation. The primary disadvantages are size, weight, and light output. I don't know why anyone feels the need for 1000 lumens over 500 for a modeling light though. The HG20DX, at 500 lumens, was already too much for me.

The LED1000DX puts out twice the light of the HG20DX. It's more efficient and doesn't require spare bulbs. It has improvements in the mechanical design to make battery changes safer and easier. It has an optional, higher capacity battery. I suspect that battery life, the weakness of the HG20DX, will be significantly improved in the LED1000DX.

I don't think everyone wants a colder modeling light, it's just what you get with anything other than halogen. You can see a halogen light more easily because of its warm color so people actually think the halogen light is stronger when it isn't. It may be true that the halogen light is better for wary subjects in combination with a red filter. I have no experience with that.

There is no point in matching focus light to strobe temp or natural light. LEDs are more efficient at higher color temps.