Motion blurred fish

I think I'm going to try to get some motion-blur shots the next time I go on a trip. First attempt:

Shutter speed: 1/20 sec

Aperture: 10.0

Exposure mode: Manual

Flash: Off

Metering mode: Evaluative

Drive mode: Continuous

ISO: 100

Lens: 16.0 to 35.0 mm

Focal length: 35.0mm

Subject distance: 655 m

AF mode: AI Servo AF

Image size: 675 x 450

Image quality: Raw

White balance: Auto

Saturation: Normal

Sharpness: Low

Contrast: Normal

Custom Functions:

CFn 2: Shutter release: AE lock; AE button: AE + AF

CFn 4: Tv/Av and exposure level: 1/3 stop

CFn 5: AF-assist beam/Flash firing: Only ext. flash emits/Fires

CFn 11: Menu button return position: Previous (top if powered off)

CFn 12: SET button function when shooting: Change ISO speed

Have you tried panning? A different effect that I have been considering trying. I was wondering if anyone had any experience trying this with a digital camera.

Oh. That was panning, at 1/20 sec shutter speed. No photoshop blurring.

Dave Haas and I spoke of trying similar shots when we did our last shark dive with the Abernethy's in the Bahamas. The problem that arose with my two attempts was that it seemed like I wasn't able to stop down the camera enough to get a correct exposure. With my Olympus 5050 stopped down to F8 (max) and the shutter speed set at 1/15 sec. the photograph was still way too bright. I can't figure out what other solution besides shooting this type of photography either much deeper, away from the sun, on overcast days, or buying a D-SLR. What do you think? (Please don't recommend the latter. I'm so broke I can't even pay attention).

Neat concept for a photograph though, Eric.. It definitely implies action.

Charles Hood (UK photographer) said that motion-blurred images like this were what were "winning all of the competitions" last year in Europe. It seems to me that Europeans take fewer "fish ID"-type shots than we do. But maybe that's a totally false impression that I have.

BTW, what would be the most important/interesting competitions to follow potential photography trends like that? Do they usually have web-sites nowadays? Or, sigh, should I subscribe to some paper magazine?

Br,

Jukka-Pekka

With my Olympus 5050 stopped down to F8 (max) and the shutter speed set at 1/15 sec. the photograph was still way too bright. I can't figure out what other solution besides shooting this type of photography either much deeper, away from the sun, on overcast days, or buying a D-SLR. What do you think? (Please don't recommend the latter. I'm so broke I can't even pay attention).

Laz

would a x2 neutral density filter of a couple of stops help? would this effect your auto focus?

Here in the UK we are blessed with cloudy days and lack of sunshine so I often use rear/slow curtain sync just to capture water colour at depth.

Panning is an important part of motion blurred shots as this will keep your flash guns aligned with your subject whilst smearing your background. Rugged/ rough backgrounds blur well.

Also if your subject is slow moving, set your focus, (locked from your subject) then aim away and pan toward, onto and across the subject to exaggerate the blur. Fire the shutter just before you frame the subject so hopefuly the flash fires as the subject is framed......then take lots of shots untill you see what you want!

Paul P

Also if your subject is slow moving, set your focus, (locked from your subject) then aim away and pan toward, onto and across the subject to exaggerate the blur. Fire the shutter just before you frame the subject so hopefuly the flash fires as the subject is framed

I have just remembered that this can give the undisired effect of front curtain sync on your backgrounds, try it out.

Paul P