Sea & Sea HC-1 housing on-off switch

Another trip, another head-ache, or avoiding a larger head-ache

The Wetpixel brain trust sure helped when I was in Yap, with moisture issues

camera serviced but it speaks japanese to me (no problem) arigato.

New dilemma:

HC-1 (SEA & SEA) video housing on-off switch clicked this AM whilst I was prepping for another great critter dive.

The camera still goes on and off as normal, but the control is floppy

AM I AT RISK OF FLOODING???

Rinse tank to 1ft and operate switch several times, no leak

Guess the pool is the next step, then ocean test w/o camera

but h20 and electronics are not bedfellows. Esp salt h20.

I do not want salt water to enter at all, obviously.

I do not know the design of the switch as to thru hull or not

I am in Lembeh with 8 more days of diving

airline weight restrictions pre-cluded a back-up

first time no back-up (50 lbs/bag vs. 70 lbs)

So here I am, scared absolutely fartless that a leak will kill the system.

So, anybody know about this control??

It works, but ...................advise!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

Bill Macdonald

BTW: 3 free swimming frog-fish in blue water was captured

as was Mating blue-ring octopus (never even saw one before)

Update:No leak during Pool test to 8ft

operated control continuously

optimistic but still real edgy about this.

Bill

A floppy switch means the recessed catch and/or spring is broken on the inside... IF I remember the S&S housings correctly. The switch is connected to lanc board and you can remove it all to check the switch. That's the first thing I'd do. If you feel you must save the lanc board, remove it and also remove the o-ring to check integrity. As long as the o-ring and rod are intact, it should not leak.

I'd email S&S directly to confirm or the dealer where you bought from. Good luck.

Take it on a dive without camera in and play with it heaps.... And of course do what Drew said which is a lot more technical.

Drew;

Thanks a bunch for answering the bell on this one. What you describe is precisely how it feels, the housing was recently serviced by

Dan Blodgett (Sub Aquatic Camera Repair, Salinas, CA) and pressure tested. Pool test to 8 ft yesterday, and will ocean test today

w/o camera, at the KBR house reef, close to the camera room and dock, so I'm not out on a boat to test, in case there is a leak.

Next time, hang the charges, I'm bringing back-up. I will email Sea & Sea / Tabata but their authorized repair is no longer repairing

(another story). So we shall see with water test. I'm kinda all thumbs when it comes to self repair, wouldn't want to make a bad situation worse.

The whole issue of travel with weight restrictions is a new challenge. The other problem I have experienced is NOT having sufficient time between

dive excursions to address repair issues before your next departure date. The Japanese "speaking" HC-1 for example had a $ 1000.00 board

replacement done twice, and both Sony parts from the main USA distributor (I was told) spoke Japanese, why Sony stocked them here is a good question.

The replacement rate of models is moving too fast in my book. I came from 16mm film and over decades we got to know our emulsions and how the

film reacted in different situations, now you are almost out of date and your model is discontinued within a child-birth time, less than a year it seems. GRRR.

Dive computer, repair issues remain after twice sending to manufacturer (so using back-up there). 50 lbs vs 70 lbs X 2 bags = 40 lbs less gear (back-up).

Drew thanks again, really appreciate the consideration. I spoke to Michaela Brockstedt of Wetpixel at DEMA about the assistance I got with the camera issues

when the "moisture alarm" gave me headaches in Yap.

Less frustrated in Lembeh

BMac

A floppy switch means the recessed catch and/or spring is broken on the inside... IF I remember the S&S housings correctly. The switch is connected to lanc board and you can remove it all to check the switch. That's the first thing I'd do. If you feel you must save the lanc board, remove it and also remove the o-ring to check integrity. As long as the o-ring and rod are intact, it should not leak.

I'd email S&S directly to confirm or the dealer where you bought from. Good luck.

If you are not willing to do exploration into the housing and field repairs, then gaffer tape the switch to ON and just use the housing. IF the o-ring is intact and the rod isn't broken, it shouldn't leak. Fix it when you get back. I've had lanc boards fail before on S&S and using reflective material, I just reflected the IR signal to the camera for a functional housing. You don't need a spare housing. Spare parts are easier to carry and often do the job. Spare o-rings not just for the bulkhead but various little moving parts around the housing are always good. If S&S USA doesn't want to help, approach dealers overseas to buy spare parts. S&S Japan is notorious for being slow on parts since they only indent during certain parts of the year.

Life is Good!

I was able to get from Sea & Sea / Tusa the phone # for Devon Thompkins

at the newly opened Pacific Housing Repair (831) 751-3885. He assured me that the problem is a

minor repair, can do later, and has nothing to do with the "O ring" integrity.

True enough, I just made a dive in a new site here in Lembeh with good results. The camera goes on & off fine no taping needed.

But once again drew, you are right, a kit of spares should be added to my list of stock gear, besides the

o-ring package. So, today from lice on a sponge to wide angle shots, I was able to capture it all.

Housing systems are like family, you never want to put them at risk. Being able, once again, to get help from WETPIXEL

and Sea & Sea responding immediately with the contact info was huge. It helps that I am teaching u/w video here and reminded Sea & Sea

that I am using their housing as an example of a flexible system (c/u - w/a).

I also made the issue part of the class, by showing the students the WETPIXEL site on a big screen, and how from beginner to advanced it is an excellent resource.

I pointed to Drew and said he will most likely respond. So the whole episode is a learning experience for all, and the students potential issues in the future. Only one

of 10 knew about WETPIXEL before, so now they are tuned in.

Lemons to lemonade.

Thanks again Drew!

BMac

BTW: if I unscrewed some small screw it would end up bouncing somewhere out of sight, so I try to operate within my limitations.

If you are not willing to do exploration into the housing and field repairs, then gaffer tape the switch to ON and just use the housing. IF the o-ring is intact and the rod isn't broken, it shouldn't leak. Fix it when you get back. I've had lanc boards fail before on S&S and using reflective material, I just reflected the IR signal to the camera for a functional housing. You don't need a spare housing. Spare parts are easier to carry and often do the job. Spare o-rings not just for the bulkhead but various little moving parts around the housing are always good. If S&S USA doesn't want to help, approach dealers overseas to buy spare parts. S&S Japan is notorious for being slow on parts since they only indent during certain parts of the year.