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Lights, Strobes, and Lighting Technique / Archived topic

Inon D-180 and optical slave. Two types of film...

Started by Tack ·

  • 10Posts
  • 10Replies

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Inon D-180 and optical slave. Two types of film...

10 posts
  1. Hi,

    I have also posted this question to other websites so I apologise for any duplication.

    I have purchased the INON D-180 strobe for my Canon S45 and WDC 300 housing... I understand how the strobe works BUT the optical connection instructions are a little too japanese for me :D

    It comes with a dark film to apply to the inbuilt canon flash - reduces visable light but allows strobe activation ( sound familiar??) also has a CLEAR film that the pictures show being added to the dark ( "opaque") film...anyone know what the clear film represents and why it is there??

    ...I DO want to block the inbuilt strobe as I get some internal reflection with my INON 330 macro lens at shorter focal lengths.

    Has anyone here used the D-180 and figured out the whys and where-fores of the dark and clear films??

    Thanks

     

    Tack

    Canberra

    Australia :lol:

    Ps If it helps I will scan the instructions for all budding japanese scholars or one of our japanese colleagues!

  2. Go ahead and post the Japanese. I will give it a shot. I am looking at either the D180 or something else for my Oly5050 rig as well...

  3. Aaaaah JohnJohnsonIII!. Someone who has a UN strobe. Does it work well? Do you have any specs in English?

     

    Thanks

  4. Please send me an e-mail with your questions regarding the D-180 and I will get the answers for you.

     

    Cheers,

     

    P.S. My Japanese friend uses the UN SF128 with pretty good results.

  5. Marscuba, any possibility of some details / specs like gn, angle of coverage, TTL/manual, recycling speed etc?

  6. Here are excerpts of the Manual regarding this issue, and specifically for Tack's housing. Manual is a lot easier to understand with the pictures so if you need them let me know by separate email.

    -Mark R.

     

     

    INON

    Optical D Cable/Cap 3 Set, with gClear Photo Systemh Film

    User Manual (Draft)

     

    Thank you for purchasing Inon products. The Inon Optical D Cable/Cap Set series is an optical fiber connector cable to connect Inon D-180/Z-220/Z-220s strobes with digital camera housings. The Cable/Cap Set includes Inon gClear Photo System Filmh (patent pending) to effectively reduce backscatter of suspended particles in front of camera lens, as well as minimize flare and ghosting.

    This gOptical D Cable/Cap 3 Seth is specifically for Canon brand housings: WP-DC500/300/200/200s/100 and designed to be configured with an Inon gAD Mount Baseh for the specific housing models above.

     

    Main Features

    - Compared to wireless slave systems, a direct connection with the Optical D Cable connector enables more reliable slave strobe operation, especially at or near the surface, and with back-lit conditions where there is much ambient light.

    - With gClear Photo Systemh and Optical D Cable connection, clearer and more pleasing images can be achieved by minimizing backscatter, flare and ghosting. With transparent housing bodies, the camerafs internal strobe emits light which passes through the housing body and illuminates suspended particles in the water, especially in front of the lens causing a sort of gmarine snowh or gbackscatterh phenomenon. Also, internal strobe light may travel down the port barrel of some housings, striking the rear element of the port or attachment lens, causing ghosts and flare. By placing the Clear Photo System film over the camerafs strobe, when the strobe fires, only the non-visible light passes through the film. This light is transmitted through the optical fiber to the external (slave) D-180 or Z-220/Z-220s strobe. Since the Clear Photo System film blocks all visible light, there is no backscatter, flare or ghosting from the internal strobe, and the image is illuminated only by the external slave strobe.

    - It is possible to mount the Optical D Cable directly to an Inon AD Mount Base, for compact, secure external strobe connection. Furthermore, Inon AD series external attachment lenses (UWL-105AD Wide Angle, UCL-165AD Close-up) can be installed on the AD Mount base for greater flexibility.

     

    Compatible Housings / AD Mount Base:

    Canon WP-DC300 + Inon AD Mount Base DC300

    Canon WP-DC200/WP-DC200s + Inon AD Mount Base DC200/200s

    Canon WP-DC100/WP-DC500 + Inon AD Mount Base DC100/500

     

    Compatible Strobes: Inon D-180, Z-220, Z-220s

    Connection Methods

    There are four possible ways to connect the Optical D Cable/Cap 3 Set. We recommend the Standard Method (A) below, but you can also choose the other methods according to you actual conditions and applications.

    (A) Clear Photo Film connection with Light Shade Panel (Standard Method)

    Using Clear Photo Film with Light Shade Panel.

    (B ) Light Shade Panel Only (Certain Applications)

    Not using Clear Photo Film. Using the camera only with internal strobe ON. Note: Compared to Standard Method (A) above, image quality may be lower.

    (C ) Clear Photo Film with AD Mount Diffuser Panel (Special Applications)

    When you prefer to use Diffuser Panel instead of Light Shade Panel.

    (D) AD Mount Diffuser Panel Only (Special Applications)

    Not using Clear Photo Film. For macro or other imaging where you want to use the internal strobe; or, in conditions where proper exposure would be difficult to achieve otherwise. (See comments: gRecommendations when using External Strobes, especially when not using Clear Photo System film.h at end of this Manual.)

     

    Attachment Methods

    Prepare Film Unit

    Connection Method (A)/(C ) Only

    Prepare one Film Seal with the adhesive side facing up. Then, place one sheet of Clear Photo Film (black film) onto the Film Seal. Then, place one sheet of Protective Film (clear film) on top of the Clear Photo Film. Note: The Protective Film is to protect the strobe. Therefore when adhering the prepared film unit onto the camera, attach with the Protective Film on the inside, facing the strobe

     

    Attach Film Unit to Camerafs Internal Strobe

    Connection Method (A)/(C ) Only

    Attach over camerafs strobe as in image at right.

     

    Attach Cap 3 Light Shade Unit to Housing

    Connection Method (A)/(B ) Only (excluding DC200/DC200s)

    Using the included hex wrench, remove the AD Mount Base Diffuser Panel and replace with the Cap 3 Light Shade Panel. Caution: Do not over tighten or the light shade panel will crack or break.

     

    Connection Method (C )/(D) Only (excluding DC200/DC200s)

    Loosen the Fiber Optic Fixing Dial and Cap Fixing Dial, and after removing the Optical Guide Mirror L, then attach to the AD Mount Base Diffuser Panel.

     

    (..........more detailed installation instructions continue on from this point)

     

    Recommendations when using External Strobes, especially when not using Clear Photo System film.

    Depending on conditions, your images may be overexposed when not using Clear Photo System film, and using one or more external strobes (slaves) together with the camerafs internal (master) strobe. As the number of firing strobes increases, the total minimum possible light output of all the strobes combined becomes greater, and camerafs minimum distance for proper exposure adjustment becomes longer. So, as the camerafs exposure adjustment range moves farther away from the camera, objects closer than the minimum distance of the range may be overexposed. In other words, at closer distances, common underwater, there is too much light for the camera to handle. In particular, with certain cameras with internal strobes having a comparatively large minimum strobe output value, when Clear Photo System film is not used, and external strobes are added to the system, it is common to have overexposure of subjects in or near the camerafs closest focusing distance.Test your camerafs minimum possible strobe output by taking some images with the camera only, at the closest focusing distance, and using the integral strobe.For achieving proper exposure, consider the following:

    - Use Clear Photo System

    - Adjust camerafs aperture setting

    - Increase distance between strobe and subject

    - Attach diffuser to external strobe

     

    END

  7. Thanks Mark,

    that is fantastic AND answers all my questions!

    :D

     

    I do indeed get lens flare with the add on Inon lenses ( I use the M67 Inon mount not the AD but can't see that's a problem - certainly the light shade panel fits and activates the strobe ok) I will now try the add on film and hope that solves everything.

     

    Oh BTW there is a tiny little screw ( number 10 on the contents list) that I have no idea what its for..have you any idea from how it is identified? OOPS I am a turkey :lol: .. just relalised it is a SPARE SCREW ( no idea what for as it is SOOO small and doesn't fit any of the attachments , but thats just fine :D )

     

    Does anyone know if the film is available on its own as I use my S45 for land as well as underwater photography and need the internal flash working from time to time..??

     

    Tack

    Canberra

    Australia B)

  8. I have the UN SF128 on my 4040 outfit and to be quite honest, I haven't used it much. I took it out on a couple night dives and made some pretty white pictures. I followed the directions to the letter(character--they were in Japanese) and was very frustrated. After a couple dives with it I was not able to figure out my trouble and decided to look into it later. I take pics while freediving, so carrying the bulky arm and strobe is a bit of an annoyance, especially if it isn't working well for me. A lot of the shooting I do are in depths where the natural light is fine(for dolphins and surfacing turtles), but recently I have gotten interested in taking the blues out of my deeper shots(got a couple nice blue shots of a hawksbill in 40 feet of water that I regret not having strobes for). I moved on to an Oly5050 and am interested in getting the SF128 to work again with it. I was going to buy the INON D180, but I decided against it. For one, my business trip to Japan ends this Friday and there isn't time to special order it at the CompMart store. And another reason is that if I am going to plunk down that much cash, I might as well get the Ikelite, which I could use on any future insanely nice rig like a Canon D60 in a Sea and Sea housing(just haven't found someone willing to give me one for free). But I figured out my problem with the UN SF128 which is too embarrassing to mention in public. But it just goes to show what happens when you pay too much attention to directions and forget the common sense part.

  9. JohnJohnsonIII, the problem with the UN strobe that it is all manual, you have to dial in the adjustments. Probably you had it on full dump.

     

    Both the Inon and Ikelite are fine strobes. I could be biased, as I actively promote Ikelite strobes as well as Inon products. If you look at the finish of the Inon product, it is typical of the fine detail of Japanese products.

     

    Inon strobes are normally not available through the local electronics shops, but rather through the specialty dive photo shops.

     

    Next time you're in Tokyo, give me a ring and we can discuss over a cold pint.

     

    Tack, I would suggest using the film and tell us your results. All of the other strobe use some sort of deflector panel.

     

    Cheers,

  10. Howdy and thanks for the invite. Funny you should mention Tokyo. I am going there for the second time in 10 years on Wednesday. I am based in Hawaii and our governor is on a PR campaign in Tokyo this week so my CEO/director are going to a luncheon and I have to go as the translator. Fun, fun. I hate political events.

    Anyway, I usually order my stuff through CompMart here in Hamamatsu. They have simple housings and whatnot in stock, but not the U/W lenses, etc. We don't have any dive shops or specialty shops, being out in the boonies. But Compmart is usually ok. The main reason I bought the UN SF128 was because it is the officially listed one on the Olympus site(Japanese). It is all manual, but the only real thing you have to set is the hi/low and the diffuser cover as on/off, depending on your subject's distance. Also helps if you set your flash within the camera(oops). That's why I had such whiteout, I'm sure. Time to go back and try it out so I can give it an honest and intelligent evaluation. Hate to give things a bad review based on my own stupidity, so I need to go back and look into it again. But I still have an eye on the Ikelite. Ya gotta love it. I went with a Japanese group and two pro cameramen to the Bahamas and had a blast. One guy is sponsored by Sea and Sea and has all this nice gear...hard to keep from drooling. Wonder if Ikelite needs a spokesman...

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