flooded housing worh trying to save a lens

Well I knew it would happen sooner or latter. I was just hoping that it would be later, much later. During a recent holiday one of the latches on my Ikelite housing shook lose during a long and dumpy ride back from Menjangan Island. I didn't check the latch position before putting it into the rinse tank, when I tried to remove the housing a few hours latter, I heard the dreaded glug of death and watched in horror as the dome port edge released a large bubble of air. This proved to be the last gasp from my dying Canon 20D.

So the question is I know the camera is toast , I dried it but whilst the camera makes a very brave attempt to power up the three fixed autofocus lights and jabbering LCD panel tell me that it is beyond hope. I hate to think what condition the sensor is in. I know it is an old model so the cost of any possible reparation isn't worth considering. However attached to the camera was my trusty Canon 10-22mm. So here is the question has anybody had a similar experience and if so is it worth sending the lens to Canon to see if it is possible to clean it up. I don't have another body so can't test if it working, and looking at the lens elements shows some nasty deposits.

Next question is should I get another 20D or bite the bullet and go for the 50D with the 40D housing. If the lens isn't repairable it might even be worth thinking of scraping the whole lot and getting a 5D MK II. That would also mean replacing my 60mm EF-S, but with the so-so reviews of the 50D I wonder if there is much of a future in the APS-C sensor.

Any way my number on concern at the moment is the possible resuscitation of the wide angle lens, so if any of you have been in the same unhappy state, kindly let me have your opinions.

Hi Michelangelo,

Sorry to hear about your loss. I'm no expert but I would find it hard to believe that your 10-22 is salvagable. There are too many electronics in a modern lens that don't like saltwater. You do have an great opportunity now though. If I were in your place I'd seriously consider the 40D instead of the 50D and you'd have enough money left to pick up a Tokina 10-17mm. If your feeling flush you could go for the 50D for the improved LCD. I believe the IQ tests to date have shown them to be pretty equal. The 5D Mk II is another story and quite a bit more money. It would depend on what you plan to do with your images. There are some very interesting threads here on the pro & cons of the 2 sensors. I'm not worried about the APS-C going away any time soon. Good luck with your decision.

Steve

Since it was a rinse tank, I'd try baking the lens at the lowest possible setting on an oven for a few hours. Either that or a hair dryer if you have the patience. You have nothing to lose. I've flooded a camera in a swimming pool and revived it before with no ill effects. I guess the problem you will have is how much salt was in the rinse tank. If it was enough to provide good conductivity, you could be out of luck but certainly worth a try.

However attached to the camera was my trusty Canon 10-22mm. So here is the question has anybody had a similar experience and if so is it worth sending the lens to Canon to see if it is possible to clean it up. I don't have another body so can't test if it working, and looking at the lens elements shows some nasty deposits.

I had a similar experience and I'll share my thoughts and what I've been told by others. When in Wakatobi, I experienced a flood when my 105mm lens was attached to the camera. Like in your case, my camera was toast. However, I wondered if the lens was repairable and was thinking of sending it to Nikon. What I found out from others more experienced in these matters than myself, was even if Nikon could get the lens working again, eventually fungus and other non-desirables would kill it off eventually.

I've since bought a 105mm VR lens to replace the one that flooded.

Ellen

Generally, the lens is toast. I had one survive a minor flood in a rinse tank. I can't say how much water actually got in the lens.

There are too many places in your lens for water to travel which will eventually ruin the lens, either mechanically or electronically.

Try putting it in a big ziplock with dry rice and leave it a few weeks. The rice should act as a dessicant and draw out any humidity. Would likely still need reconditioning to even hope to work, but if the water was indeed fresh, and this was done pretty quick, corrosion wouldn't be the instant death it could be.

This has worked for cellphones dropped in toilets (teenaged daughter - don't ask), a small digicam dropped off a canoe, and another cellphone that even went through a full cycle in a washing machine. None of the above have optics that can be corrupted by the tiniest film like a nice wide lens does, but all have more electronics - including active electronics (batteries) that might've shorted with the water exposure.

The 50D will not work in a 40D Ikelite housing unless a firmware update is done, which costs $200US. You might as well get the 50D housing unless you get a really good deal or have a 40D housing already.

The sensor improvement is minor (but in my view noticeable) but there are some other features that make it worth considering, the biggest of which is that the 40D preview screen on the back of the camera only shows the medium jpg inside a raw file, making it look blurry when you zoom in, making it impossible to really be sure about focus unless you shoot jpg only. The 50D shows the actual picture, so you can check sharpness. The screen is also much nicer as its higher resolution. Underwater I found this to be a pretty huge upgrade as focus was more of a guess before.

Theres also a minimum flash speed option of 1/60 in Aperture priority etc, a lens microadjust option and an improved liveview option. Some people think AF is better, others dont, Im not sure myself.

Otara

The 50D will not work in a 40D Ikelite housing unless a firmware update is done, which costs $200US. You might as well get the 50D housing unless you get a really good deal or have a 40D housing already.

 

Otara

Hi Otara,

Can you explain what the upgrade is for? What does it do?

Thanks,

Steve

Steve, it gets the Ikelite eTTL electronics working for the 50D. There was a topic about it a little while ago if you're interested. For those of us with housings other than Ikelite, it's obviously not an issue.

Thanks

Steve