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Photography Gear and Technique / Archived topic

Nikkor 105mm micro 'D'

Started by bruceterrill ·

  • 9Posts
  • 9Replies

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Nikkor 105mm micro 'D'

9 posts
  1. Hi Guys,

     

    I'm still paddling around under piers in shallow water and concentrating on macro/super macro and loving every minute of it; that is until my bloody '105' gets all "ornery" on me and starts locking focus at the most in-opertune times. Usually NOT focused on the subject. I know that this subject has been discussed and cursed many times before, but I cannot find the specifics with the WP review system. . . .

    Can someone please explain the best fixes for this problem? Shooting under the piers, it is not usually dark and I have a very good focus light in use anyways.

    I have been wondering about using the continual focus on my D70 Nikon, but I'm left thinking that this might be a 'band-aid' instead of a fix?

    Any suggestions would be welcome and gratefully received. . . .

     

    Bruce~

    Edited by bruceterrill
  2. Hi Bruce,

     

    The short answer is manual focus. I too have been experimenting with the 105AF. The 105 has very long travel when focusing then gives up. And I don't like continuous as I cannot lock focus on an eye then recompose. I bought a MF gear some time ago and haven't looked back.

     

    HTH

    Mary

  3. Most of the time I used the 105 on AF, but it had a focus gear just in case. (Camera can see better than I can with aging eyesight.) If it wanted to search too much I would focus on a fixed object about the same distance away, then refocus on the subject. This would tend to minimize search time, usually locking in. I found AF-C to be somewhat slow on the D70 but it works great on the D300. Now using the 105VR, which focuses much quicker than the older 105. It still wants to search on small or low contrast subjects, but overall I prefer it over the old version. Also with the Nexus housing it gives you instant manual focus with no special port or having to reset camera controls.

    Edited by jcclink
  4. Hi Bruce,

     

    The short answer is manual focus. I too have been experimenting with the 105AF. The 105 has very long travel when focusing then gives up. And I don't like continuous as I cannot lock focus on an eye then recompose. I bought a MF gear some time ago and haven't looked back.

     

    HTH

    Mary

     

    Hi Mary,

    How's things going down there? I've had a couple of REAL nice trips across to Blairgowrie area and that's where I'm coming to grief with the 105.

    It's a beautifuuly sharp lens, but just wants to play 'girlie games' and that annoys me a bit.

    I'm looking at a manual focus gear short term I suppose; where did you get yours from? South Oz or OS?

    Thanks for your help.

    Bruce.

  5. Most of the time I used the 105 on AF, but it had a focus gear just in case. (Camera can see better than I can with aging eyesight.) If it wanted to search too much I would focus on a fixed object about the same distance away, then refocus on the subject. This would tend to minimize search time, usually locking in. I found AF-C to be somewhat slow on the D70 but it works great on the D300. Now using the 105VR, which focuses much quicker than the older 105. It still wants to search on small or low contrast subjects, but overall I prefer it over the old version. Also with the Nexus housing it gives you instant manual focus with no special port or having to reset camera controls.

     

    Hey Jimmy,

    Been a while Pal. How's that new rig performing?

    I think that I'm following you don't the eye-sight path mate? I'm pointing the bloody housing and hoping that the AF can do a better job than my eyes.

    I'm looking at the 105 VR in the near future, but as you said, it might be too much lens for the poor old D70S? But I'm a faithful servant, and the D70S

    and I are sure to grow old together.

    I'm wondering as to whether a different 'colored' focus light beam might create more contrast out front for the camera to get a better sight picture to focus on?

    I will have to consult the 'gurus' on that one, but it sounds reasonable?

    Best wishes for the new year Jimmy,

    Bruce...

  6. As mentioned. try to find something close to the same distance and focus on it. You want your lens already close to the right focus point, i.e. you can identify the blurry subject in your viewfinder. Focus a little at a time. Avoid holding the shutter release down for more than a fraction of a second. Little taps to focus will help avoid the lens racking in and out. Then do a final focus lock and fire.

  7. As mentioned. try to find something close to the same distance and focus on it. You want your lens already close to the right focus point, i.e. you can identify the blurry subject in your viewfinder. Focus a little at a time. Avoid holding the shutter release down for more than a fraction of a second. Little taps to focus will help avoid the lens racking in and out. Then do a final focus lock and fire.

     

    Bruce,

     

    I have the AF/M gear for the 105 (the old D) in Nexus. If AF is difficult, I switch to M. You still get the focus feed back in the view finder. Some times I use the above pre focus method. Keep the faith; get scripts in your mask.

     

    R/ Bob

  8. HI,

    I use the 105d alot more now with my D200, than my D70, I found that when using it with a D70 I could never get it to focus

    very well at all. The lens would hunt & not lock on, but with the D200 I have found than the lens still hunts (not as much), but

    locks on quicker, it can only be that the camreas auto focus has been improved so that the lens reacts alot quicker & also the power

    of the battery helps. I would like to think that the D300 is still better & an other models going forward would also improve, as this is

    a very good lens indeed.

    Andy :huh::deadhorse:

  9. I recently got this lens and am looking forward to trying it UW, I'll let you know what I think when I get back from Coz.

Keldan

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