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Nikon 24-70 on FX

Started by loftus ·

  • 5Posts
  • 5Replies

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Nikon 24-70 on FX

5 posts
  1. I really like the Nikon 24-70 topside, so thought I'd give it a shot underwater on the D700 where it is the equivalent of the 17-55 on the DX. FE2 Subal dome and 70mm extension.

    Combining this lens with the Tokina 10-17 and 1.4TC will give me the same wide angle lens range I used on my D200, as I never used the 12-24 much.

    These are only at the widest 24mm and compare without a dioptre and with a +2 dioptre. Corner sharpness at 100% crop appeared acceptable by f5.6 without dioptre and possibly by f4 with dioptre but I don't think it adds much.

    The +2 diopter increased the size of the panel by 9% when measured on the image. f11 and f16 not posted due to maximum images allowed on post.

    Full FOV @ 24mm f2.8

    Tokina%2017mm%20f112009-02-079169.jpg

    100% Crop f2.8

    Tokina%2017mm%20f112009-02-079169%20-%20Version%202.jpg

    100% Crop 2.8 +2 diopter

    Tokina%2017mm%20f112009-02-079175.jpg

    100% crop f4

    Tokina%2017mm%20f112009-02-079171%20-%20Version%202.jpg

    100% crop f4 +2 diopter

    Tokina%2017mm%20f112009-02-079176.jpg

    100% crop f5.6

    Tokina%2017mm%20f112009-02-079172%20-%20Version%202.jpg

    100% crop f5.6 +2 diopter

    Tokina%2017mm%20f112009-02-079177.jpg

    100% crop f8

    Tokina%2017mm%20f112009-02-079173%20-%20Version%202.jpg

    100% crop f8 +2 diopter

    Tokina%2017mm%20f112009-02-079178.jpg

    Edited by loftus
  2. Hi Loftus,

     

    Thank you for your informal tests. I have also bought the 24-70mm. In anticipation of getting a D700 housing when Seacam finally makes one available. The lens embodies Nikon's latest-and-greatest technology - ED glass, AF-S focusing, Internal focus and Crystal Nano lens coating. The older (and much less expensive) 24-85mm zoom I've been using for the last half dozen years has only internal focus, but none of the other whistles and bells.

     

    On land, the 24-70 looks very interesting, nice focal length range, fast aperture, etc. And physically because the lens is longest at 24mm, which means that you position your dome so that it doesn't vignette at 24mm, and as you zoom to the longer focal lengths, the lens pulls back into the port a bit providing better sun shading. My older 24-85 gets longer as you increase the focal length and so you have to be careful that you don't vignette at the wide end, and don't hit the inside of the dome at the long end of the zoom range. Behind my preferred dome, I can only zoom out to about 75mm. Also, the 24-85mm is really only usable underwater in its 35-85mm "macro" range. Unless you add a diopter which I don't do.

     

    I played with the 24-70 in a swim pool almost 8 months ago after making gears for underwater use. Several things about the lens were apparent immediately in comparison to the 24-85mm. Using Seacam's wideport (approx 6" curvature) the 24-85mm lens focused MUCH closer than did the 24-70. The 24-85 also needed only a 55mm or 60mm extension tube between the housing body and the wideport dome. The 24-70 needed about 100mm or a bit more (memory problem on the exact amount). So the 24-70mm rig was considerably longer. But the field of view of the 24-70 was noticeably wider than that of the 24-85 because the macro focusing range of the 24-85 works only out to 35mm.

     

    With Seacam's wideport, the 24-70 only focused on subjects about 18" or farther from the front of the dome. Not great. The 24-85 focuses to within about 2" of the dome - so close I cannot really light the subject with my strobes.

     

    The 24-70mm is a constant f2.8 over its whole zoom range whereas the 24-85 is a variable f2.8~f4. So the 24-70 is brighter for viewing and theoretically provides more accurate auto-focus as the lens has less depth-of-field at f2.8 at its longer focal lengths vs the f4 of the 24-85.

     

    When I put the 24-70 behind the Seacam Superdome (approx 9" curvature) it was able to focus considerably closer to the front of the dome than it had behind the wideport. The Superdome is a "longer" port, but I had shorten the extension tube length to make the total port length more even. This closer focusing capability, I believe, is because the virtual image formed by the larger dome is proportionately farther away from the larger dome and so the minimum focus distance of the 24-70, which is only about 14", now has more working distance between where the infinity virtual image is formed with the bigger dome that with the smaller dome.

     

    A better solution would be to have a section of 8" or 9" curvature glass mounted in port physically smaller in diameter than the Superdome, such as the wideport mount. You don't need a really large (or wide) section of the larger diameter dome because the angle of coverage at 24mm isn't as wide as the lenses normally used behind a really big dome, such as 16mm or 17mm or fisheye's. In one of my "junk" boxes I've got an old acrylic dome port from Oceanic's Hydro-35 housing. The whole dome is slightly bigger than the Seacam wideport, but the dome is a section of 8" curvature. I'll get the dome adapted sometime in the near future to check it out.

     

    Even behind a 6" dome which limits working distance to 18", the 24-70 may deliver better enough image quality to make it a really great big animal lens when a 17-35mm would be too wide too much of the time.

     

    A great shark or manatee lens?

     

    Fred

  3. Thanks Fred,

    I have limited 'parts' to play with, so I've made no attempt to optimize this setup, just put together what seems to work at this point. With my Subal FE2 dome at f8 and beyond it appeared to work just fine particularly from f8.

    I'm still exploring the D700 underwater, but find my approach is very different from my D200. I tend to roll up the ISO and set to Aperture Priority f8 or f11 with minimal flash fill for most Wide Angle at the moment.

    I'm headed on a trip on Friday and plan to experiment mostly with this lens and the Tokina 10-17 and 1.4TC for the week - I must admit, that is the setup I am really excited about. Simple, compact, corner to corner sharp, great DOF, focusing on the dome. and with the D700 the loss of an f-stop is not a problem. That setup seems to just get out of the way and let me take pictures.

  4. Hi Loftus,

     

    A better solution would be to have a section of 8" or 9" curvature glass mounted in port physically smaller in diameter than the Superdome, such as the wideport mount. You don't need a really large (or wide) section of the larger diameter dome because the angle of coverage at 24mm isn't as wide as the lenses normally used behind a really big dome, such as 16mm or 17mm or fisheye's. In one of my "junk" boxes I've got an old acrylic dome port from Oceanic's Hydro-35 housing. The whole dome is slightly bigger than the Seacam wideport, but the dome is a section of 8" curvature. I'll get the dome adapted sometime in the near future to check it out.

     

     

    Fred

    Fred,

    I have the same Hydro 35 port in my antique collection. I don't know if any of the other housing manufacturers are making a similar port design but I use Aquatica and I know they do not. I wish they did. I remember when I switched from that port to a flat port (beause I switched from the 55 macro to a 60 macro) that there was definity loss of IQ.

  5. Hello Loftus,

     

    It occurs to me that since we are only a couple hours apart - you Winter Park, me Sarasota - that it might be advantageous to get together occasionally to do some "joint testing" and maybe even do diving together. My personal email is fbavendam@hotmail. Corresponding on a more personal level is something I prefer when the topics are not of WP community interest. I hope to hear from you.

     

    Fred

     

     

     

     

    Thanks Fred,

    I have limited 'parts' to play with, so I've made no attempt to optimize this setup, just put together what seems to work at this point. With my Subal FE2 dome at f8 and beyond it appeared to work just fine particularly from f8.

    I'm still exploring the D700 underwater, but find my approach is very different from my D200. I tend to roll up the ISO and set to Aperture Priority f8 or f11 with minimal flash fill for most Wide Angle at the moment.

    I'm headed on a trip on Friday and plan to experiment mostly with this lens and the Tokina 10-17 and 1.4TC for the week - I must admit, that is the setup I am really excited about. Simple, compact, corner to corner sharp, great DOF, focusing on the dome. and with the D700 the loss of an f-stop is not a problem. That setup seems to just get out of the way and let me take pictures.

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