How do I learn to use a manual strobe

I have been using my g7 with an auto strobe for the last 3 years and have decent pictures(in my own dreams). I just purchased a inon z220s for a very good price. So I think it is time to learn how to take a picture using manual mode. How do I learn??? I have read many books but nothing seems to put it all together. Any recommendations on tutorials??? I do play with the camera a lot in manual mode, so now I just need some direction.

Some questions I have

What level do I set the strobe to take the right picture?

When i take macro modes, all pictures are over exposed, I tried lowering the strobe guide.

Any recommended reading?

Equipment: g7 with canon underwater case. z220s with a fiber optic cable.

thanks!!!

HI,

I use manual with my Inon's to start with you can start at half power 1/60sec f11 take the shot then adjust

then you can go up down the scale. You say that your images are over exposed have you tried putting your

shutter speed up this will help with over exposure, you can always adjust with a little bit of Photoshop. you

can also use the diffuser which will take the power down a stop.

Andy

HI,

I use manual with my Inon's to start with you can start at half power 1/60sec f11 take the shot then adjust

then you can go up down the scale. You say that your images are over exposed have you tried putting your

shutter speed up this will help with over exposure, you can always adjust with a little bit of Photoshop. you

can also use the diffuser which will take the power down a stop.

Andy

I was playing with my setup (again) and have some better pictures in macro mode. I can not get f11 on my g7, the highest is f8. My issue, it like you said, I need to keep adjusting. Is the formula to start with, or do I just go with my instincts.

thanks

You've gotten some good advice already. I use my Inon Z240 strobes on manual and I've found that checking the histogram after a shot has helped me a lot. In other words, at least for me, there does not seem to be any set formula, but rather a trial and error of sorts. If there are blown highlights (e.g. the histogram goes off the edge on the right side), there are different things you can do to solve the problem. Using the diffuser for the strobe has been mentioned. If I'm not mistaken, different strength diffusers come with the strobe so if you are consistently overexposed, you could use a diffuser with a different strength (i.e. 1.5 rather than .5). Also be aware that the strobe settings needed will vary based on whether you are shooting a dark subject or a white or light colored subject. Another thing that helps is to vary the strobe distance from the subject. For example, if the histogram shows I'm overexposed, sometimes I'll just move the strobes back rather than adjust the strobe settings.

If you take a shot and the histogram shows the image is overexposed, just adjust the settings on the strobe by a small amount. Keep adjusting the settings until it looks right on the histogram. I've sometimes adjusted the settings in large increments after the histogram looked too dark or too light and have regretted it.

Ellen

I can not get f11 on my g7, the highest is f8. My issue, it like you said, I need to keep adjusting. Is the formula to start with, or do I just go with my instincts.

 

thanks

f11 on SLR's (what Andy suggested as a startup config) should equal to something like f5,0 on You'r G7.

Scubamoose

f11 on SLR's (what Andy suggested as a startup config) should equal to something like f5,0 on You'r G7.

 

Scubamoose

It took me a while but I remembered that I could use the equivalent Aperture/Shutter to get the same exposure.

thanks. Where is the cheatsheet? :-)

You've gotten some good advice already. I use my Inon Z240 strobes on manual and I've found that checking the histogram after a shot has helped me a lot. In other words, at least for me, there does not seem to be any set formula, but rather a trial and error of sorts. If there are blown highlights (e.g. the histogram goes off the edge on the right side), there are different things you can do to solve the problem. Using the diffuser for the strobe has been mentioned. If I'm not mistaken, different strength diffusers come with the strobe so if you are consistently overexposed, you could use a diffuser with a different strength (i.e. 1.5 rather than .5). Also be aware that the strobe settings needed will vary based on whether you are shooting a dark subject or a white or light colored subject. Another thing that helps is to vary the strobe distance from the subject. For example, if the histogram shows I'm overexposed, sometimes I'll just move the strobes back rather than adjust the strobe settings.

 

If you take a shot and the histogram shows the image is overexposed, just adjust the settings on the strobe by a small amount. Keep adjusting the settings until it looks right on the histogram. I've sometimes adjusted the settings in large increments after the histogram looked too dark or too light and have regretted it.

 

Ellen

I have start remembering to use the histogram a lot more. Would help a lot underwater where my lcd is only 2.5. I was also thinking of using the bracketing function on the camera. This would help me learn back on land which picture I liked.

thanks. Where is the cheatsheet? :-)

There is no cheatsheet

Just try some settings that work most of the time, and adjust a bit + - when the result is not right.

When I was shooting with my G9 I set my macro base-setting on C1:

f8.0

1/60th

Flash at half power

while shooting I would adjust shutter or flash a bit + or - depending the situation.

There is no cheatsheet

 

Just try some settings that work most of the time, and adjust a bit + - when the result is not right.

 

When I was shooting with my G9 I set my macro base-setting on C1:

 

f8.0

1/60th

Flash at half power

 

while shooting I would adjust shutter or flash a bit + or - depending the situation.

right now c1/c2 will be my cheatsheets.

I am at work, but I think I was playing with f5.6 and 1/125 last night with ok results. I have been re-reading my g7 manual and many websites and with the help of everyone here, picts(on land) look pretty good.

I need to take the kid to the ymca pool and take shots of him underwater.

right now c1/c2 will be my cheatsheets.

 

I am at work, but I think I was playing with f5.6 and 1/125 last night with ok results. I have been re-reading my g7 manual and many websites and with the help of everyone here, picts(on land) look pretty good.

 

 

I need to take the kid to the ymca pool and take shots of him underwater.

I just went back to basics and found some old books I have read. The essential guide to Digital Underwater photography help a lot.

thanks for everyone's help.

I just went back to basics and found some old books I have read. The essential guide to Digital Underwater photography help a lot.

 

thanks for everyone's help.

Here's my two cents on shooting with a G9 in manual with strobes ... I shot nearly everything at ISO 80.

MACRO:

If you want black water, shoot at F/8 and 1/1000th ... If you want bright blue water shoot at F5.6 and 1/125th.

If you want in-between, shoot in between.

For macro, I typically had one strobe at 1/2 power and one at a bit less - but that varied greatly depending upon subject matter. If the first crack was off, I would adjust the strobe power, not the exposure.

W/A:

In bright tropical conditions, I typically shot wide-angle at F/5.6 and 125th. If I was going for a sunball or in really bright shallow water, I would stop down sometimes all the way to F8 and up the shutter to 1/500th or 1000th to get a silhouette.

For wide angle, I typically had my strobes at full power.

HTH!