Have 2 rotating buttons that are broken on consumer housings. I kayak dive a lot, so the housing takes a beating. Both buttons have basically fell out. One on an Olympus housing and one on an old Canon. I could do without those particular buttons, so in order to still use the housing, I would like to just plug up the holes that they occupy.
Does anyone have a recommendation on the type of glue or process to make a completely waterproof seal? I know many glues have trouble adhering to this housing material.
Thank you!
Have 2 rotating buttons that are broken on consumer housings. I kayak dive a lot, so the housing takes a beating. Both buttons have basically fell out. One on an Olympus housing and one on an old Canon. I could do without those particular buttons, so in order to still use the housing, I would like to just plug up the holes that they occupy.
Does anyone have a recommendation on the type of glue or process to make a completely waterproof seal? I know many glues have trouble adhering to this housing material.
Thank you!
Fuzz
In the course of developing an LED light head to upgrade Light & Motion Sunray Halogen systems with a fully plug-compatible 700 lumen LED head, I tried a lot of adhesives on plastic and metal experimental systems. (On the system, FTechX Classic 700, now available for sale, I use only o-rings and quad-rings; www.FTechX.com ). The experimental systems were tested out at dive depths of over 80-feet and were watertight. Lab testing of the units was ok to >180-feet.
I've had very good luck with "3M Marine Adhesive Sealant, Fast Cure 5200". It is available at Home Depot stores. In my testing I used it to seal metal-to-metal and metal-to-plastic. I would recommend putting a stainless steel screw and nut thru the hole and sealing the whole thing up with that sealant. I'd glop the hole with the stuff, then put the screw thru it and place the nut on snuggly. Despite the title "Fast Cure" it takes 24 hours to fully cure so you don't have to rush.
Good luck!
Art
www.FTechX.com
There is a good chance that the Olympus & Canon buttons are the same. Maybe just remove a good button from one housing & install in the other one. I have been told by a S&S rep that all of these consumer housings all come out of the same factory, so it is reasonable that a lot of the parts are the same.
Barring this, go with the screw & adhesive. You might also put an o-ring under the head of the screw.
I have successfully used 5200 in a jam. just be sure to test it without your cam in there first!
On a similar note, does anyone know the torque specs for re-attaching the housing clasps and latches on an ikelite housing?
