Canon housing corrosion on some controls--fixable?

My Canon housing has been on about 80 dives, and two of the controls that I use the most, the flash and macro mode toggles, are showing corrosion. I have never seen any water in the case, but obviously, this doesn't look good. The housing is always washed in fresh water, of course. About the worst thing I have done to it is leaving it in the car for a couple of hours before rinsing it. That doesn't happen very often though.

Are the cheap housings ultimately disposable, or has my occasional neglect damaged this one?

Is there any regular maintenance that should be done beyond post-dive rinsing? The manufacturer's instructions only mention the main o-ring.

I'd like to know what I could do better for next time, as a new camera is in my future anyway. Thanks!

You might contact Canon. I am under the impression that they only talk about the main O-ring since that is the only one you can replace. I am told they can do maint. and replace them all for you but have not had it done. Apparently 80 dives or so is the limit in your conditions. Whether that is better than buying a new housing is a point of debate based on your plans. I always seem to upgrade before I run out of case but I do not get to dive that often.

You might consider carrying a water proof bag containing water in your car. The great thing about the OEM cases is the size. A relatively small but sturdy waterproof bag works great as a wash tank. I take one on most all dive trips since even though boats claim a dive bucket, its often shared with mask rinsing which can effect the O-rings. Get a very sturdy bag rather than the light ones. I find lightweight ones last less than 2 days on a boat before starting to leak.

Dave

It looks like the controls are held together with e-clips on the shafts, so it's probably maintainable--if you have the right parts. I may as well ask Canon.

Good idea about the bag, thanks.

I emailed Canon support. They said to send it to the factory for a quote but were unable to give me any more information. Without knowing a ballpark figure, it's probably not worth the time.

The buttons on this housing look very much like my old olympus pt-010. I serviced it myself by taking the clips off and removing the whole button assembly. I cleaned everything up and lubed the orings. It went well and definitely made the buttons work more smoothly.

You're right that it's probably not worth paying to have someone work on it, but give it a try yourself. It'll take a couple of hours. If you're at all mechanically inclined, it's not that hard and easy to figure out.

PS, there used to be a very detailed description on the web about the pt-010, but I can't find it now.

maybe someone else knows where that lives.

The buttons on this housing look very much like my old olympus pt-010. I serviced it myself by taking the clips off and removing the whole button assembly. I cleaned everything up and lubed the orings. It went well and definitely made the buttons work more smoothly.

 

You're right that it's probably not worth paying to have someone work on it, but give it a try yourself. It'll take a couple of hours. If you're at all mechanically inclined, it's not that hard and easy to figure out.

 

PS, there used to be a very detailed description on the web about the pt-010, but I can't find it now.

maybe someone else knows where that lives.

That is good to know, thanks. I will give that a shot after my trip to Roatan. I'd hate to screw it up and not have a camera at all for the trip.

Is there any regular maintenance that should be done beyond post-dive rinsing? The manufacturer's instructions only mention the main o-ring.

 

I'd like to know what I could do better for next time, as a new camera is in my future anyway. Thanks!

In what maintenance of delicate equipment concerns, the most urgent thing you must do after a dive is: Avoid as much as you can the salt water drying into difficult to reach parts of housings, flashes and everything, as are the control mechanisms, springs and o-ring containers. If you miss it then salt crystalization occurs very quickly and consequently corrosion starts almost immediately. Not to say crystalized salt deposits are very (very!) difficult to remove later, even with hours of rinsening.

And, just in case a rinsening tank is not available, here is my trick: Even at risk of being blamed of having a love affair with your equipment, blow, blow and blow away all salt water trapped in whatever part off critical parts. I mean blowing in close contact! You'll be surprised of how much water gets retained there. After this, if you can, drop, spray, etc. some fresh water, even small amounts helps to solve/remove the reminder salt water, that will be better.

Off course, this is not a substitute for a correct maintenance procedure cycle! This only helps to delay the start of corrosion processes when rinsening is not possible immediately.

Hope it will help next time!

Regards.