Ransome,
Here's some feedback on lens:
100 2.8 macro - great choice for macro on the 5dmkii.
15mm 2.8 fisheye - great lens for the canon 5d/mk ii fullframe camera
Stephen Frink has tried the 14L. I think there are challenges with getting the diopter right for your port combination. Diopter considerations and port sizes for the size of your lenses are a pretty big factor. What you really want to do is talk with a shop that specializes in underwater photography, knows the system configurations, and known incompatibilities. Some of the lens you own may or may not work, depending on the configuration/system you end up getting.
Re: 2.8: DOF is nicer than a lens that has 4.0, and this seems to be logical for on land photography, but underwater most of the time we shoot at higher apertures to control the blueness of our water in the shots. (F5,F8,F11,F22 -macro)
1) higher keeper rate
pool testing, getting really familiar with whatever system you end up purchasing, and practice, practice, practice, will help play a large factor in your keeper rate.
2) high quality image
The 5d mk ii quality is there. I'd do some searches on lens corner sharpness. If you really want the sharpest image, go with prime lenses. You sacrifice some flexibility by removing the ability to zoom, but I prefer to fin closer anyways. The less water between you and the subject can make a huge difference.
3) reasonable cost
This is where things get complicated. The answer to #4 is to buy the best you can afford. The answer to #3 is that there really aren't too many good deals in underwater photography for pro level SLR's, especially a camera that just came to market.
4) system reliability.
Much of this has to do with O-ring maintenance, how you take care of your gear, and the quality of materials and workmanship in the gear you end up purchasing.
In the underwater housing market, I really believe that you get what you pay for. If you're just starting out, an investment in a metal housing can seem insane. I won't go back personally. I love the reliability of a metal housing.
1. Housing brand: I am predisposed to Ikelite at this point: 1) right price range, 2) I like the idea of see through, 3) positive feedback from my dive store (they are a dealer). It seems from a reliability standpoint, this is a good choice.
Diver Dans is a great dive shop! So is Wallins in the Bay Area. However, for underwater photography gear and especially for a camera that housings have just started coming out on the market for, I would highly recommend talking with someone at Backscatter in Monterrey. They're close to you and are one of the largest underwater photography stores in the USA. It would really be worth the trip. They can show you a wider selection of housings, ports, strobes, and accessories for your desired setup. This is super helpful because you can handle the housings and see what feels best. Ergonomics can really play a huge factor when trying to take photos underwater.
I currently shoot with a 5d in a Subal housing and have a 5d mark ii that I will also be putting in a Subal housing. Other manufacturers that tend to make well built housings with great ergonomics are Sea and Sea, Aquatica, and Seacam.
- What are your thoughts on Ike vs. the other brands, plastic vs. aluminum housing, glass vs. plastic ports?
This sort of depends on what housing you end up with. I know some people that love the acrylic ports on the Sea and Sea, because if you scratch it, it's not nearly as expensive to replace. However, it depends on whether you're shooting a lot of splits. I believe glass ports handle the water beading/shedding better.
2. Strobes (assuming an Ikelite decision): My current thinking is to purchase 2 DS 160s vs the high end 200. This newer model has 20% less power, but slightly faster recycle times, 30% more flashes per full charge, minimally less angle of coverage (which with two strobes shouldn't be a big deal) and LED modeling light vs. halogen.
To quickly respond to this: Do you want to shoot mostly Wide Angle or Macro? If you find yourself looking at other peoples photography and most of what you find yourself admiring is Wide Angle, then buy the most powerful strobes you can afford. If you like the Macro stuff, the smaller strobes can give you more control or the light.
- Do you need to go with the Ikelite strobe to get TTL support?
Many people don't worry about TTL underwater, but if you want to have it, you can also get it with the Sea & Sea TTL converter, and a few other products. Do a search in the forum on TTL.
- Will two strobes help me meet my objectives over one? Is the weight balance of two over one really that big of a deal?
I think the balance is a big deal. Especially with an SLR camera. You'll go through your dive with the camera dragging to one side. Also, I find it harder to shoot wide angle with only one strobe. Macro can suffer too, because you end up getting extreme modeling from only one light with heavy shadows.
3. Arm supports: my dive shop is recommending the Ultralight brand for three main reasons: 1) flexibility in light positioning, 2) buoyancy arm parts for added buoyancy of the system, 3) support strength.
Ultralights are awesome. They're reliable and easy to work with.
Give Russ, Jim, or Marshall a call over at Backscatter: 831 645-1082. They really are super helpful. They've worked with prototypes of the 5d mark ii housings and work very closely with the manufacturers and will be happy to help you with your decisions.
They might also have a 15mm lens in stock too! I saw one in the case not too long ago.
Regards,
Joel
