D300 SeaTool

I am finally seriously considering housing my D300 to step up from my Oly 8080/Ikelite rig.

I really like the compact size of the Seatool and the fiber optic option for the Inon strobes. But I have a couple of questions for anyone who uses this housing.... For reference, I have a 105VR and intend to get the Tokina 10-17

First, do you miss the ability to change the metering options from spot to center to matrix, and if not, how do you decide which to go with based on what you are planning to shoot? How about S,C,M focus selector? I've read what Martin Edge has to say, what do you think?

Second, do you miss it enough to wish you went with S&S or another housing (no fiber optic or TTL w/o converter?)

Finally, Inon Z240 or new 2000's? From the specs, it looks like they have similar coverage angles are the (less expensive) 2000's a viable option or foolish way to save some $$ on this rig? (vs. much larger S&S YS250s if I go the S&S route?)

Help before my wife finds out how much this is going to cost me!!!!

If you decide to go with S&S strobes, the YS110a is probably your best bet. The 250 is big, heavy & uses proprietary batteries. If you are going to use ONLY fiber optics to fire strobes, then the YS27 is a nice compact "slave only" strobe very similar to the 110a in light output. Check here for comparisons.

http://www.digitaldiver.net/strobes.php

Regarding S, C M control - I've never needed to change it u/w on my D300. Its typically set on C.

The 105VR has AF w/manual over- ride, so no need for special ports or controls other than focus/zoom control on housing. (Don't need to set S/C/M to manual.)

I don't personally miss the metering mode selector and I have no problem with the MSC control. The 105VR can be used with AF and MF both without changing the MSC switch. The back-focus control is usable as long as you don't use a right hand grip.

Most of my problems have been adjusting to the lack of right hand grip and the 45 degree finder which was new to me. Bouyancy is a bit heavy but managable and most of my adjustments are to improve trim. The zoom knob was uncomfortable for me because of my left grip so I'm changing the grips and mount points for the strobe arms. I have no complaints on the housing itself.

I love that the Seatool supports many different port systems including the Nexus multiport and that's not as easy as it sounds. I had full, reliable control over the 70-180 through the Nexus port despite how demanding the gear tolerances are in that setup. Seatool did it well.

I used both Z240s and S2000s. S2000s are totally adequate for macro and are not too narrow for wide angle but are a full stop less power than the Z240s. In my ultimate Indonesia thread Matt just post a pic of me shooting the Seatool housing with triple S2000s using a domed 18-50 macro. You could get away with S2000s and wide angle, particularly using 3, but you will want more power at times. My intention in the future is to travel with 3 S2000s for macro and something larger for wide. I'm not sure whether it will be Z240s, YS250s, or something else big. I am impressed with the S2000s.

I am finally seriously considering housing my D300 to step up from my Oly 8080/Ikelite rig.

 

I really like the compact size of the Seatool and the fiber optic option for the Inon strobes. But I have a couple of questions for anyone who uses this housing.... For reference, I have a 105VR and intend to get the Tokina 10-17

 

First, do you miss the ability to change the metering options from spot to center to matrix, and if not, how do you decide which to go with based on what you are planning to shoot? How about S,C,M focus selector? I've read what Martin Edge has to say, what do you think?

 

Second, do you miss it enough to wish you went with S&S or another housing (no fiber optic or TTL w/o converter?)

I moved from 7070/Ike to D200/Ike to D300/Ike.

Even though I can alter spot/center/matrix I never do that. I always shoot in manual mode. The TTL in the Ike system is so good that it never fails. Well, never say never, on extreme macro when shooting small white objects I usually turn the TTL compensator wheel a step or two. But, usually I only alter aperture to change DOF and speed to change background color. Exposure is always spot on. I use 105VR, 60 micro and Tokina 10-17.

/Peter

Metering for macro is meaningless.

I have an Aquatica. I removed the MSC switch because it had a nasty habit of getting shoved into manual by accident and not going back. I decided I would simply put it back on for dives when I needed to switch focus modes. I have never put it back on.

Metering for macro is meaningless.

 

I have an Aquatica. I removed the MSC switch because it had a nasty habit of getting shoved into manual by accident and not going back. I decided I would simply put it back on for dives when I needed to switch focus modes. I have never put it back on.

?? maybe it's me, but it seems you are mixing up the Focus M/S/C control with the Metering M/S/C control ??

/Peter

?? maybe it's me, but it seems you are mixing up the Focus M/S/C control with the Metering M/S/C control ??

 

Peter, to your point, my real question is about the "need" to switch metering amongst Matrix, Center-Weighted, or Spot on a given dive. This is the control that the SeaTool housing does not have, but I know the Sea&Sea does. (The rotating bezel around the AE-L AF-L button)

 

I have been happy with my Ike for the 8080, but it just seems like such a large package when you include ports lenses and dual strobes. Especially when you compare to the size of the SeaTool with Inons (powered by AA batteries not big proprietary ones with seperate chargers.) With airline restrictions that is a real consideration. I guess it is a question of where to fall on the Cost--Hassle continuum...

Most of the time I shoot matrix on the surface, underwater I have used matrix for available light and center weighted spot for flash. I preset on my Aquatica but always wanted the ability to switch in the water. Not sure if it matters though

My housing is on this way and was not aware that one can't adjust these settings under the water. I must say, I would have loved to have that ability even if i only used it once in a while. Having saif that, the compactness of the housing and the fibre optic option still carries more weight for me.

Just as a point of clarification, the Seatool housing DOES access M-S-C, but does not access the metering selector.

Personally, I only use the spot meter, and don't have a reason to change it. I've experimented with matrix for wa pelagic shooting in Aperture priority, but it hasn't worked well for me. I'd rather point the spot at blue water, lock exposure, then recompose.

?? maybe it's me, but it seems you are mixing up the Focus M/S/C control with the Metering M/S/C control ??

 

 

/Peter

No. It was two part answer to a two part question.

1) Metering for macro is irrelevant. So not being able to switch is no big deal. Metering mode makes a difference for wide angle, but is a matter of preference and doesn't need to be changed during the dive. So if you set your camera to your wide angle metering preference for your entire trip, then the need for a switch just isn't there.

2) MSC switch. I set it and forget it and have taken the lever off. As noted by Craig with the new 105 one doesn't need to change the mode to manual focus. Moot point as the Seatool does access the MSC.

I have this setup for macro. None of these settings matter.